rayaapp2

Funny that someone dug this thread up 2 days ago... I bought this car on Sunday from Eric who bought the car from Brian. Until 12pm today it was in the same condition as the first pictures in this thread... I spent this week gathering parts and today I started assembling it. CA is prepped to go in next after I patch the hole in the floor and fill in some of the extra bulkhead holes... followed by some gloss black paint on the bulkhead.

I posted about this a year ago. I bought their GT35R kit. Be glad you didnt get that turbo! That turbo will NOT clear the strut housing. I had to cut and re-weld the T3 flange at a more parallel angle to the head length. I still havent figured out how to address the wastegate flange... can you post more pictures of how you got a wastegate on there... I opted for a TIAL unit and without more adapters or cutting and welding it doesnt work. The downpipe fits a stock R33 for sure, but not the S30. It will even fit the S13! I did get the 4bolt to vband adapter and Im happy with that. The oil line was ridiculous... I bought some adapters and then coiled the line around the mount and used a generic strap to mount it down from flopping in the engine bay. The coolant lines were another 60bucks from ebay and the AN adapters to fit the turbo were another $30... Then I bought the LoveFab... let me tell you now, I am still planning on using the CXracing manifold even though it obvously SUCKS! Did you look inside the runners at the joints? what a joke... #5/#6 joint is possibly the worst on mine. Currently as everything sits I ended up putting the GT35R they sent me on another rb manifold and into a different car. MY 260Z has the CXracing manifold and a GT3076R turbo on it currently waiting for me to get around to finishing it up. I bought my parts through upscale automotive, and luckily the owner/operator had an R33 with the same kit on it and he spelled out all the complications and even set me up with a few extra parts as related to his car, and still I ran into the other issues I mentioned.

Does anyone make a Greddy knock-off that fits the RB20 NEO? I mean the greddy fits the RB25det and the RB25det NEO, but nothing else I have seen. It wont fit the RB26dett, RB25DE, or RB20DET... Better make sure one will fit your NEO 20 before hand. Other than that looks good. BTW, Venus has an RB20DE NEO on the shelf for sale right now... Also have a look around you will find headers on ebay that will work. The RB20DE has the same bolt pattern as the RB20DET/RB25DET/RB25DE on the exhaust side. So Finding headers is only a matter of making sure they will fit a LHD steering column... and so far Ive seen a few that work. Dig around and one will pop up

very close to Datsun Roadster Sora Blue. Looks good!

rsicard: which mounts are you using? Im just looking at my flexplate, which should be the same diameter as a flywheel and it is exactly 7" from the bottom of the block at the lowest point. So the transmission housing has to cover that so it would indeed be lower than a 7" pan(which is what I currently have). So the transmission in theory would hang below the oil pan and the oil pan would be below my cross member at 7" deep when I drop the engine down like the modern kits do! My headers/collectors measure from the bottom of the block @ oil filter mount location(same as bottom of the block where the pan bolts) 8 3/4" to the bottom lowest point... which will be an issue for me but Id bet the transmission bell housing isnt any lower than the headers(which is what Im hoping to figure out).

I have a related question: So there are a few of you here that run the T56 trans. Currently my setup has a TH350 behind an older 350, and Im gonna go through all the work to convert myself over to one of the T56 trans in the future so I can actually use the car as a driver. Right now Im using an OEM oil pan that sits level with the bottom of the cross member. So my engine is obviously really high and it sits forward. I plan on at least moving it back some and seeing how far I can drop the engine down when I convert the trans as a custom driveshaft will be in the works again, so I might as well get it as right as possible. So here is my query: the oil pan is about the same level as the transmission pan on my TH350... Where are your T56 transmission housings relative to your oil pan? If you get a shorter oil pan does the transmission then become the lowest point? And there isnt much compensation that can be done to clearance that, but I assume those that have done this have found some happy medium where the transmission isnt sticking down more than an inch below the car correct? I already worry about my collectors and speed bumps, Id rather not worry about my transmission... of course I could strap some mag plates to the bottom of the frame rails as clearance stops and see how cool that would be!

I couldn't tell you... Ive never opened that engine up other than removing the intake and valve covers. This engines been in there for a while. At least the past 11 years, possibly a lot longer... The car had already been swapped pretty early on. Somewhere around 79/80 is the first record I have that the car was already swapped... and about 4 owners ago. Ive just done all the maintenance and tuning to get it running after being in pieces and on jacks for 10 years. Here is what I started with, Ive been polishing a super turd:

So let us start with what I did briefly. I ordered up a Full Boar 3" in/out Single Chamber muffler with is a knockoff of the Flowmaster 10 series. I also installed a section of stainless flex pipe to reduce rattling of the exhaust system. And that seems to have worked! And the Video http://www.youtube.com/embed/RXwvs2X210Q Id simply embed it, but I dont know how on this site anymore.

You know, That might work great for my radiator support and intercooler mounting... since I have no radiator support anymore and will be caging the front up. Thanks for the idea! Ray

Ive been looking for a way to create a 260Z fender emblem that looks factory but says 260ZR. Ive kept a bunch of 260Z emblems and was thinking of paying someone to make billet CNC copies for me.

I have 3" dual to 3" single and out an Aspec Fart can currently. Its loud but sounds good. I dont have any major drone thankfully. Im about to install a single chamber flow knockoff in the center to act as a resonator. Im hoping to get some flowmaster sound but also quiet the exhaust a bit. Ill be posting up some videos this weekend as Frank280zx was interested in hearing it.

The part number is in the title. The engine is forward and I have no reference to the JTR kit so I cannot tell you if the headers fit it or not. There is a bit of information on these headers in this forum somewhere. You might find the answer you seek by spending some time searching. I plan on making up some mounts that shove the engine back a little more in the future. I will have to see how everything lines up and how much clearance underneath I have. It will happen when I replace the TH350 with a manual transmission. Im not sure you will be able to find a set of these headers. I dont know if they make them still. Im sure I got lucky when Mike posted them up in the for sale section and they were suppose to be the same as what I had.

Thanks Mike! Frank, If I can get a T56 sorted in the car by next year amongst the other projects I might get someone to drive it down. Fingers crossed the Monster 260Z will be coming down with the 280yz kit on it. I have so much to do, but its a year off so who knows. Ill be glad when all 3 of my Z cars are roadworthy once again. Its overwhelming having 3 down. At least I can drive the 570Z once again. I have to sort out a power steering pump on the 570Z so I can get the hydro-boost brake system in next. Im in search of a V-belt pulley for the 96 PS pump I have since I cannot bolt up the vortec brackets on my engine with these heads. Im searching for a nice set of aftermarket heads for it as well, Maybe Ill get lucky and find heads that let me run the serpentine belt assembly...

I just ran across something interesting: I have a very old swap in my 71 240Z. It pre-dates JTR kits old, but it has a set of Hookers on it which Im guessing were later additions. Well Ive been slowly gathering parts and going through the car to get it road worthy once again. I bought a set of replacement Hooker headers used from a local member here, and they are the same exact part number, but slightly different! Since I had not run across anything detailing this before I thought Id share, though Im sure someone on here has to know about this. The Driver side appears to be identical, but it is also different! They changed the lengths slightly and it resolved some frame rail rubbing I had. And because I was under the car here are some shots of my 3" exhaust, which I will soon be adding a Jones Full Boar single chamber and flex pipe to next week. This is the spot I can add the single chamber just before the rear end front cross member. Its the size of a 10 series flowmaster so it should fit at only 9" wide and approx total length of 13" EDIT: Yes I know I still have a long way to go... like the 1/2" aluminum fuel line tube that can be seen in some of th pictures... where no one should ever think of routing fuel lines...

I own a few plates 260ZR is on my Monster 260Z but I also retain DAT FMLY for one of my Datsuns.

First verify timing. Use a spark plug wire and an actual advancing timing gun on the balancer. Then check your TPS(sensor not switch) setting. Take it through full motion and verify with the FSM settings. The TPS as I found out recently has a massive affect on fuel and timing on the rb25. Be sure to un-plug the TPS during CAS adjustment as well or it resets unless your using a real consult that will put the ECU in BASE mode.

Shooting in the dark probably wont help you much. Follow the FSM procedure and you will find what issue/s are messing with you. Ray

I was able to achieve 24mpg city and 29-30 hwy with an early 260Z L28et swap and 22mpg city 29mpg with a stock 83 280zxt 2+2. That said, I would also start with the FSM diag. Fuel pressure,CHTS, TPS, and MAF would be my first things to look at if it is properly wired. There are plenty of things that can be mis-wired like the start signal that would cause this issue as well. O2 has little affect on AFR. For these old cars Id pull the sensor out of the exhaust during diag of a car thats running like that. Your more likely to foul the sensor like that.

So Ive been sorting out an S13 with a series 1 RB25det in it. Its had a slue of problems. One of which I thought Id share with the board here. The car would idle just fine and rev up in neutral well. The moment you drove the car down the freeway around 60-70mph during cruise the car would sometimes just cut power. It would also act up occasionally while under light throttle in other places under load. The problem finally got so bad that it would act up at idle when it got hot! I traced out the wiring harness, discovered that the throttle position switch isnt used by the ecu btw!, wire jiggle test, checked my ignition coils, checked my plugs, and all the other in depth checks for diagnosis. They yielded nada! The problem was still there. What is interesting is that engine temperature was affecting the issue as it would not have issues when cold. When the problem became so bad that it was affecting idle I could hear the VVT solenoid chattering with engine stall... Then I knew I was on to something. This is a common problem on most vehicles, but it was accentuated by the VVT, and fuel management into causing a weird stall! Apparently the TPS sensor had a bad spot! As the throttle passed over the bad spot not only did it freak the ECU out and stall the engine, but it accelerated the wear on the TPS sensor. I grabbed another used sensor out of my stash and without even installing it, plugged it in and suddenly everything worked great! I didnt even have to ohm out the old sensor. I reset the good part onto my throttle body to FSM specs and Ive been driving it all week now without any more hick-ups! Hopefully someone that's having similar issues finds this and saves themselves some time. Its a common problem that for some reason I had not thought of during my diag. Ray A

I think these two quotes go together nicely... NEVER AURGUE WITH THE BAR REP! His word is GOD! Even when your right... your wrong! So when he says something I do not question, I make note(with his information) for reference in case if any state agency every comes for an audit...

As far as I understand the law, what you said is true. The last time I spoke with the BAR rep he stated any cat so long as its CARB approved is ok. It just has to have the serial numbers etched into it. Muffler shop might have wanted to sell you a cat or cover their own butts because they didnt understand the law. Or I could be miss-informed. If it were me Id weld it in myself. Universal Cats with CARB numbers are perfectly legal as far as the law goes as it has been transcribed to me by my BAR rep. It use to be that you couldnt change the pipe in front of the cat at all without a CARB # or an OE part. The letter of the law has changed since then though. I suspect it still goes like that, but you can use a larger diameter universal... The best way of doing that would be to get the OE flanges from another Nissan as most of them use the same flange and cat for the older cars and use the OE style 3" ID cat... but not the 280z or non-turbo ZX... but say 280zxt and NX/sentra/240sx/300zx.etc all use the same flanges different pipe sizes to get that flange from and then use the flanges to mount your universal... It would not be contested with serial numbers and the need to use reducers is nullified.

StealthZ bought a set of those... He tucked them away, refused to use them, and refused to sell them... Contact him and ask him.

I have done 1 RB20det, and half a dozen RB25det's Someday I will do an AWD 25 or 26, just waiting on the right deal for a half cut and rear sub assembly

Because those options here are more expensive than modifying the RB flywheel that I seem to have like 6 of laying around. Ive thought of it a couple of times but never really went farther than checking the alignment ring. I have a few KA and other Nissan flywheels around here as well... Thats interesting news on the 350Z clutch... arnt those dual mass flywheels and self adjusting pressure plates? I have pictures of a 2006 I did not long ago. I will have to inspect them and see what I see. I do remember doing a 3 series BMW at the same time which is messing me up because that has both those options on that car for sure...just muddying my memory up.