z-ya

Nice work Paul! I'm assuming that this rail is for O-ring injectors. Nice sturday looking mounts. Friday I will be machining the pully for the EDIS wheel, so I'll post some pictures when I'm done. I'm also going to build a VR sensor bracket this weekend. I've got most of the wiring done for the EDIS conversion, I'm just waiting for the Chrysler coil pack to come in at this point. I will also need to get the 4 pin connector. Anyway, that's it for now.

Unless you are building a race engine, you should stick with EFI. Look at Megasquirt as an alternative, it's a great sutup with complete tunability. http://www.msefi.com

Looks like you downloaded the Windows version. This version is precompiled and ready to run. You can only download the source code for Unix versions. Megatunix was originally designed for Unix, and since Mac went OS-X (Unix), It can now be compiled for OS-X. The problem is that you need to install a compiler and compile it. GNU C is free, but yuo need to have some basic programming skills to compile it. I would suggest trying to find some who has already compiled it and can send you the binaries.

Very Nice! Is there a cap that covers the unilug? Who makes them?

I drilled out one of the old sensors and and then tapped it to 3/8" NPT. As long as the sensor is below the T-stat, it will get an accurate reading of temp for the coolant in the engine.

I bought an exhaust and clutch from them. Good service.

An MS will run your Briggs and Stratton you want it to. It will not do sequential injection, but for an custom performance application, it is not really important. I ran batch (all injector fire simultaneously) on a mild L28 powered race car and I was getting 25MPG on the track! For an LS1, it you are going to run it close to stock tune, use the stock ECU and wiring. If you are planning a lot of mods, go with MS or another aftermarket ECU. Remeber that you need sone basic wiring and electronic skills to make an MS work. For a generic SB Chevy, definitely go MS. Someday I'd like to do an MS TPI small block (when I get tired of screwing with L28s).

The NISSAN covers are from Japan. I was at an engine importer at a place outside of San Antonio, and he had 5 L28s with that valve cover. I would probably grind off the plug wire mounting holes and weld them shut, so I can fix the crack at the same time. Send me a PM with what you want for it. I will use it on the race car with EDIS. Thanks, Pete

Paul, On your test setup, if you verify the functionality of the MS with a stimulator, then you can use your EDIS test setup just to confirm that you can control timing from EDIS. Then you are ready to try it on your L6. Thanks. I bought the raw fuel rail stock from Kinsler, and then machined it myself. The RX7 coil packs have both the dual tower coil and igniter in the same unit. They require a +5 square wave to fire them, so they are compatible with many different aftermarket ECUs. To use with MS would require many changes to the hardware and SW, because you need three outputs to drive the igniters. It could be done, but the EDIS gives you the same functionality with a single wire, and all the firmware is done. On my turbo car I'm drivng them with a Wolf 3D ECU. I am interested in one of those NISSAN valve covers. Send me a PM with a price. Hear is a pic of the race car I'm supercharging and adding EDIS to at a time trial at Watkins Glen last year:

Hey, if it easy to make it look good while increasing functionality, why not? I see what you mean from the overhead shot. I ran RX7 coil packs in this photo. Mounting them flat just above the frame rail allowed me to dress up the ignition wires so they look decent: What valve cover is in the photo? Did you machine off the Nissan logo?

I have competed agaist Miatas in a stripped 240Z competition only track-autocross car many times. With equal setups, and drivers with equal talent, hear is what I have determined. Autocross: Miatas rule, especially if it is a very tight course. They can downshift to 1st on tight Auto-X course and carry a lot more speed in the turns. In a 240Z, you really have to stay in second. So not only do you not have the acceration out of the turn because you are in 2nd, but the Miata suspension is just better in tight turns. Road course: Again, on a track with tight turns, and not many straights, it is hard to beat a Miata given equal drivers. Now on a track with long straights, the Z will easily out excelerate a Miata, and if the turns aren't really tight, the 240Z can cary as much speed as the Miata. At Watkins Glenn this year I was very happy to catch a race prepped Miata in my time trial. I ruled the straights, and there was only one turn the Miata was faster in (toe of the boot). Street: Z Car! Not only do you have better acceleration, but a superior looking ride. And your not just another Miata. I race with a Corvette club that allows all cars (and trucks), and it is probably 70% are Miatas.

Is this really true? I've always run my engines with a piece of hose between the radiator inlet, and the fitting at the rear of the head. I never have problems with over heating, even on my race car that never gets over the T-stat temp (180) even after 20 minute track sessions in 90+ deg heat. I'm running a 2 core 240Z radiator in it, and the engine makes around 165HP at the wheels. I always thought that this would always bring coolant directly from the radiator to the head, bypassing the block.

Paul, You are running EDIS in limp mode (no MS), right? Seems like the next step is to hook up you MS and test the entire ignition system out. You can calibrate your timing, and verify functionality. Test out your MS with a stimulator to check all the sensor inputs, and then hook it up to your EDIS test fixture to verify that you have the VR sensor, PIP and SAW signals wired correctly. Pete

Chris, This is the setup that is going on the club car motor we were working on the other day. EDIS will give us very precise timing control, which we will need with an 8.5:1 CR supercharged L28.

Paul, This is really cool! You can also use this setup to test coils for compatibility with the EDIS module. Yep, all you need is a scope now. If you need help picking one out, let me know. Something like this would be perfect: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tektronix-2215-Dual-Channel-oscilloscope_W0QQitemZ7580870142QQcategoryZ104247QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Make sure it 100% functional, and that it is garanteed to work. Stick with Tek, they make the best. Are you near Hillsboro? I visit Intel on a regular basis. Maybe we can hookup on a future trip.

For some reason I thought you were trying to fix your Weber problem by using an MS to control ignition. So my suggestion would be to get your MS up and running with the stock disty for ignition. Trigger off the "-" terminal of coil with the "Dave Cap" mod (not sure if there is a place holder for the Dave Cap in the V3 board). I've got a couple maps to get you started, one with NA injectors, and one for turbo injectors. My NA 10:1 L28 with a stock cam made 165HP at the wheels with this map. When you are ready to go turbo, and you want ignition control, go with EDIS. In my mind, it is the best way to go. It eliminates the disty, and it uses Ford hardware that is easy to get in junkyards. Myself and BRAPP are in process of doing the EDIS ingition with MS: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 I'm supercharging my 240Z Solo I 240Z, and BRAAP is installing it on his NA Solo II 240Z, so we can provide some help. BY the time you are ready for ignition control, we should have all the dos and don'ts worked out. Best Regards,

Why not just mount it flat to the shock tower without the Chrysler bracket? You may want to change your oil lines to braided lines with compression fittings. I used to have clamp on hoses for my oil cooler, until one blew off. Seems that those clamps can loosen up over time. It doen't take long to pump 5 qt of oil out of the oil pan at 40psi!. It blew off in front of the radiator, so all that oil sucked into the radiator and engine compartment!

I'm an electronics geek first (been doing electonic hardware design and debug for close to 20 years now), motor head second. I built a bunch of engines, but my expertise is really on the electrical engineering side (that's what I do 9-5).

Yes, leave the shield unconnected at the sensor, and also at the MS. Only connect the shields for the VR and PIP/SAW cables to pin 7 of module. I know this because that is the way Ford did it fromt he factory (the shields were still intact on my module and VR sensor plugs). The shield does what the name implies, it shields the low level signals inside the braiding from external interference that may have have a negative effect on signal fidelity. The signal from the VR sensor is especially sensistive to noise. The PIP and SAW signals are also sensitive, but not as much as the VR signal. Yes, the picture from the RS Motorsport is a dual conductor shielded arrangement: It has two conductors inside a braided shielding. This will certainly do the trick. This is all you need (no tin foil required). Also, there is no need to twist the wires inside the braid.

I may run the Chrysler coil pack for the same reasons you are (mounting, plug wires). I'm mounting the module on the drivers side. I think it is more important to have the VR sensor cable short. As long as 16-18 gauge wire is used, the coil outputs from the EDIS module are not effected as much by length. Since you have your VR sensor on the driver side, it makes sense. Make sure you use dual conductor shielded cable for both the the VR sensor and the PIP and SAW cables. Connect the sheilds to pin 7 on the EDIS module. Let the shield float at the VR sensor for the sensor cable, and at the relay board (or at the MS if you don't have one) for the PIP and SAW cable. Leave the shield available in case you need to connect it at the MS. You will need a scope to determine if you need tie the shield to ground at the MS. You what to float one end of the shield to prevent a ground loop that would cause noise on the VR, PIP, and SAW signals.

I've never used an MS with an MSD, but I would think you can use the tach output of the MSD to drive the MS, and run just fuel control. Choose whatever distrbutor you want based on what advance curve you require. Starting with a NA 280ZX disty is probably a good start if you have one kicking around. Depending on what version of code you run, will determine if it has rev limiting. Your MSD also has rev limiter modules so you can use that too. I would get the MS-I with the version 3.0 PCB. A version 2.2 will also work just fine if you already have one. If not, get v3.0, it is much better in many ways. See http://www.msefi.com for all the details.

I bought a set of Jacobs wires about 5 years ago for my turbo Z with a wasted spark setup, and they are great. No problems, and great quality. If they are under new ownership, and the assembly is now dones elsewhere, who knows what the quality it. For $65, if the quality isn't great, I'm not interested. On setting up the VR sensor location, good thinking on using the trigger wheel as a degree wheel! That's a big "duh" on my part. Should have thought of that! Because my VR sensor will be on the driver's side, I will use the trigger wheel as a degree wheel to get the engine at 60 BTC. With the VR sensor mounted in it's final location (I will have some adjustment slack in the bracket), I will then rotate just the trigger wheel until the center of the missing tooth lines up with the VR sensor. Because your sensor is on the other side of the engine, it is a bit easier to visualize it. Sound right?

I'm not sure where I'm getting custom EDIS wires either. These look like they would work, but are kind of pricey: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&part=JAC%2D4006663&N=115+4294908331+4294907830+4294924755+4294925143&autoview=sku Looks like you have it timed up right (at least from what I can tell from the photo). When the timing mark on the crank pully is at 60 BTC, the sensor should be at the missing tooth on the trigger wheel. What did you use to get the crank at at an accurate 60 BTC? My timing tab goes to 30 BTC. Did you use a dgree wheel of some sort? Pete

Paul, Looking great! I got my notor back together this weekend (new 460 lift cam, fresh P79 head), so next is getting the crank trigger and wheel installed. I will mount the wheel as you have done, but I will put the sensor around 3:00. I will use the A/C mounting holes to mount the VR sensor bracket. What coils are you usging? I have the Ford EDIS coil pack, but any dual tower wasted spark coils should work. I plan on mounting the EDIS module where the stock coil goes, and possibly the coil pack on the passenger side fender well. I was also considering mounting the coil pack on the engine, but for reliability, mounting it on the chassis may be better.

Ed, Nothing negative intended, we are just trying to help you. Give us some of the information Tony has requested, and maybe we can.