z-ya

My MS does run the fuel pump for around 10 sec when I first turn it on. It still does this when hot. I suppose I could turn the ignition on and off a number times to flush all of the warm fuel out and get the pressure out. Anyone know if the fuel pump "prime time" is adjustable easily in the MS? Seems like to could increase this time to maybe fix the problem. I suppose if you wer setup to compile the firmware you could adjust it easily. Pete

Autopower makes cages for S30s. That what I have in my track car. It fits OK (not great). Does the trick though. It's a six point. Pete

I use one of those timing lights that has the knob on the back. Have someone hold the throttle at around 3500RPM (or where the timing is max advance). While pointing the light at the timing tab, adjust the knob on the timing light until the timing mark on the damper aligns with zero on the timing tab. Let off the throttle, and then look at where the knob points on the timing scale. That is you max advance. It's really the only way to know for sure. Pete

I use one of those timing lights that has the knob on the back. Have someone hold the throttle at around 3500RPM (or where the timing is max advance). Then adjust the knob on the timing light until the timing mark on the damper alighns with zero on the timing tab. Let off the throttle, and then look at where the knob points. That is you max advance. It's really the only way to know for sure. Pete

Ditto, fuel rail is hot, and vaporization is happening. Same thing happens on my Megasquirted track 240Z. Just let it idle a minute, and it smooths right out. Pete

Is it a turbo application? If not, any L6 distributor will work with megasuirt. In fact, if you use the Megasquirt n' Spark code, you can use a 280Z-ZX distributor, and just weld up the advance mechanism. Read more about it in the Megasquirt section of Hybridz Pete

Even though it is a track only car, I run 93 octane most all of the time in it. Last week I was at Watkins Glenn and 100 ocatane was alost $6 a gallon. I ran out durring a session, and limped it back to the pump. I put close to 5 gallons in, $30 (ouch!). Anyway, all of the dyno tuning I've done with 93 octane, because that is what I run, and I don't want any detonation during a track session. So 26 deg is the max advance I've been able to run. About 165WHP, and 175ft-lbs. I'm sure with a better cam I coud run more timing. I am using a stock ZX distributor BTW. Use one of those adjustable timing lights to set your max advance. It's a hoot to drive though. Yes more power would be better, but it's fun to see how much speed you can carry in the corners, knowing that you just don't have a lot in the straights. You've got to work more on your speed in the corners. It's also bullet proof. I did 7 - 1/2 hour sessions at Watkins Glenn, and it didn't miss a beat. Didn't use any oil, and the temp never went over 180 in 90 deg heat (still got the two core 240Z radiator in there too). Anyway, it's a great setup(N series and flat tops), and a bargain to build one. Hear is what the beast looks like at NHIS:

I built the same motor and got 165WHP with fuel injection. You can only run a max of 26deg timing to prevent pinging. Maybe a different cam and some head work will alow you to run more max advance. Pete

Looks good. The only suggestion I have is to move the ECU from under the seat to somewhere above floor level. Looks like you have a little rust, and the Z floors do leak over time. I'd hate to see you swamp out that Megasquirt. In the track car I put a MS in I put it right on the tranny tunnel between the seats. Probably the dryest area of the Z.

Like YOU said, just get it running good in its stock configuration first, then worry about BOVs and boost gauges. Once it is running good then you can do upgrades knowing that you are starting with a fundamentally sound engine swap. Yes, you can use the vapor tank as a surge tank (I think I'm the first to do that), but again, it is not needed just to get your stock turbo motor running good. Think of it this way, the more stuff you take appart, the more you have to put back together. It is much easier to take stuff appart than put it together. If it ain't broken, don't screw with it at this point. You can do all the bling stuff later. Just get the motor in there and running good. Concern yourself with getting the motor and transmission in there first, you can deal with the rear end later. The R180 and stock half shafts you have in there will handle a stock turbo motor easily. What transmission is in the 240Z now? If it is a 5-speed, use that, otherwise put the Borg-Warner T5 from the ZXT in there. Unless you have access to a 280Z or 280ZX NA tranny. These will fit more easily into the 240Z than the T5. I'd focus on getting the motor installed, wired, and running good. If you keep thinking "while I'm in there I might as well ....." then you could be at this for a long time. I think you would like to be driving it, and with a turbo motor in there, you definitely will!!

Can you post the dyno plot? I'm wondering how much torque you lost in the lower RPMs with this cam. The stock turbo cam is good for well over 300WHP, and it keeps your torque curve nice and flat. Sounds like your turbo is limiting your power over 5000RPM with the stock turbo cam. That is a lot of boost pressure for only 300WHP. With the stock turbo cam, and a freer flowing turbo, you should be close to 375WHP at 17psi. I just finished tuning a customers car. Stock L28ET long block, P90 head. T04E/T03 turb with stage 3 turbine. 3" exhaust, Wolf 3D EFI with direct fire ignition. Boost spools to 10psi, and then creeps to 13psi. Hear is the dyno plot from a dynapack:

Any low impedance injector (2.4 Ohm) that a hose can be attached to, and that has a Bosch style body will work The problem is that if you just drop in bigger injectors, it will run pig rich except when you need the extra flow rate at high boost levels. The stock injectors flow enough fuel for 11-12psi of boost. Pete

Put it on a dyno and let's see what kind of difference it made! I put a Megasquirt on a similar engine (F54/N47, header, 60mmTB, stock head and cam), and I measured 165hp/175ft-lbs at the wheels. The Megasquirt converison cost me less than $200 and it is fully programable. I get 22mpg on the race track with it! Pete

Send them out for cleaning and testing. I find it hard to believe that the impedance (resistance) is out of spec. The impedance should be in the 2.4 Ohm region. I've seen ones 2.2 Ohms, and ones 2.6 Ohms. They all worked fine after a good cleaning. It sounds like the injector just need a good cleaning and tesing. Pete

Send out your stock NA injectors for cleaning and testing. You may want to pick up some used spares to send along in case one is found to be leaking or non functional. The ECU is designed for the stock 19lb/hr injectors. Anything larger than that will make the engine run riich with the stock ECU. It costs about $100 to have a set of injectors serviced. Worth ever penny IMO. Pete

Don't waste yourmoney on reman injectors, send them out for cleaning and testing. http://www.witchhunter.com will do the whole set for around $100. Also, the intake hoses are very important, especially the one between the TB and the AFM. If it has cracks, the engine will idle rough, but run OK off idle. Pete

You will need to shave and shim the P90A to get close to 10:1 (unless you find some dome pistons). If you do shave and shim it, you can just run stock F54 flat top pistons and get close to 10:1. Another option would be to run an N42 head with flat tops. The resultant CR will be around 9.8:1. Pete

Spend the extra $ and get a stimulator, it's really the only way to confirm that the MS is working properly. Pete

Hey Ken, Nice to see you this weekend. Also, thanks for letting me drive your Z! Wohoo! The performance is great. Plenty of torque at all RPMs. A seat of the pants comparison to my turbo Z, I'd say you are in the 270-300ft-lb range. Instant boost, and I saw closer to 14psi when I was driving it. Only took it up to 6000RPM or so, but it pulls real hard. No flat spots whatsoever in the powerband. Really feels like a 300HP V8 is under the hood (it sounds like one too). Nice job on the coversion also. Nice machining, welds and configuration. Pretty impressive to run close to 14psi, without intercooling, and fairly agressive timing. Great job! Pete

The arizona Z pistons come with Deves rings, why not just use them? I've used them with sucess in a couple of rebuilds. Pete

The stock crank is forged, why spend big bucks on a custom one? If you want a longer stroke, use a Nissan diesel crank. Pete

The guy that did my powedercoating did mine with a mix of silverand black poweder by by mistake (wanted black), but I liked it so much, I kept it.

I'd do a compression check, and if it looks OK drop it in and run it. If the compression looks questionable, pop the head, and put in a fresh Nissan gasket. You can use the stock head bolts again too. To use a metal gasket, the two mating surfaces need to be perfect, or it will leak. If you plan on running less than 15psi, stick with the stock gasket. Another option is to use copper O-rings with a stock gasket. You will need to have grooves cut in the head for them though. I'd also put a new timing chain tensioner set in (the chain and sprockets should be fine with 50k on them). They are cheap. Pete

Why not just use an L20 head gasket? That way you will know that you haven't changed the CR or valvetrain geometry. Pete

Save yourself some pain and just bring the entire strut assembly to a shop with a hydraulic press. It will take less than 30 seconds to press each spindle pin out. You will not damage the spindle pins using this method, saving you at least $30 (list price is $36 each for spindle pins, Courtessy sells them for $17 each). Do not use a hammer, you will just damage the spindle pins. Pete