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You need to do something about the stock engine management before thinking about running more than 10psi and upgrading the camshaft. You will need more fuel, and a programable ECU to do either. Spend your money on a programable ECU now, is really the best investment you can make, that will get the most out of your existing setup. With good enginemanagement and a decent turbo, the stock cam is good for over 300HP at the wheels BTW.

Great to hear another EDIS sucess story. Nothing beats direct fire crank triggered ignition for blown or high compression applications. It really the only way to do it with Megasquirt, and it is cheap and simple to wire up. I'll post results when mine is up and running.

There are tons of them out there. All have good and bad points but all do the basic engine management function well. The Megasquirt is a great option if you have some wiring skills. Haltech, Electromotive, and Wolf 3D are the ones I've worked with, and all are excellent.

This is certainly doable. You would just need to place the missing tooth so that the sensor is 60 deg advanced from it at TDC. The super charger pulley is setup to use the 280Z damper, but I could make a spacer do that the SC pully aligns properly with CAS trigger wheel. Got an extra 81' damper with the CAS trigger wheel?

Tony, My mistake, it wasn't a turbo ECU, it was a 78' 280Z ECU and distributor on a L28ET. To interface a turbo ECU to a NA distributor (negative terminal of a coil) would be difficult. Pete

Thanks for the update. I hope to be firing mine up the next couple months.

Cool way to make the trigger wheel! On my supercharged L28 project I'm going to turn down the outer L28 pully so that the Ford trigger wheel fits with a slight interference. Then I will position it and weld it on.

I've run an NA distributor on a number of turbo applications (carbed, stock turbo ECU, Megasquirt), and you end up having to retard the timing so much to prevent detonation, that the off boost performance becomes very sluggish. So on any boosted application where you want good performance, use the turbo electronics, or an aftermarket ECU with direct fired ignition.

Yes, you will need an 82 or 83 distributor and oil pump shaft. Using the NA distrubtor is not good for any boosted application. T

Thanks!

Who regrinds Nissan OEM rockers? My machinist won't do it, and new ones are over $30 each from Courtesy. Pete

I would think that you could take some simple measurements and determine if you need to machine notches. If the block is not assembled, you can rest the head on it (with the locating dowels in place) and turn the camshaft slowly with a wrench on the cam sprocket. If the head lifts up, you need to notch the block. You can also put a couple of head bolts in (don't tighten them down) to keep the head from moving while you are turning the cam. The amount of lift you have will also dictate how far the valves go into the bore.

You installed an MS, and you think a three terminal regulator is too complicated? Three pins, input, output and ground. How much simpler could it get? I wouldn't suggest just hooking up stuff to the TPS 5V as the MS uses the same regulator internally which is only good fo 1A. Practially the whole MS runs off that internal regulator. How much current does the shift light draw? Are going to run a wire from your TPS all the way under the dash? You are just asking for noise to get coupled into the TPS circuit. When noise gets on the TPS signal, your engine will start bucking like a bronco, not pretty. You are better off doing a simple voltage divider with two resistors, but that is actuall more complicated than the $1.59 5V regulator from Radio Shack. You can do a hack, or you can do it right.

I'm adding EDIS to a v2.2 MS I've been runnig in a 240Z track car for a couple years. I'll let everyone know how it works out.

You can build yourself a 5V regulator circuit using parts from Radio Shack. You want to use this regulator: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599&cp=&kw=regulator&kwCatId=2032058&parentPage=search Hear is the datasheet: http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM340.pdf#page=2 Simple to build, and will regulate the voltage at 5V where just a dropping resistor won't. Look at the "Typical Applications" section of tha datasheet.

I understand that the correct way to know for sure is to check the wipe pattern. So I'll just order one of each from Courtesy and find out which one centers the wipe pattern in the center of the rocker arm. Then I'll order the remaining 11 of that size. Thanks, Pete

Anyone know what lash pad for 0.460 lift cam? NISMO has 0.150, 0.170, and 0.180. I think the 0.170 is the one I want, but I wanted to get some feedback on what others have used. Thanks

Hear is a 280Z N47:

I run my F54/N47 combo with a stock cam and no port/pollish all day on pump gas. I scoped it on the dyno just to be sure it wasn't pinging. I've go the total advance set to 26deg. 165WHP and 175WT. Very bullet proof and streetable. I run northeast 93 octane or better in it.

Ken, I agree, for the light blue, the flares should match the body. The Gnose looks great in that color. Pete

Yes, you can build your own resistor pack from standard power resistors. 5 Ohm, 5watt should work fine. Radio Shack probably has them. If not, DigiKey certainly does. On mine I used power resistors in a TO220 package, which basically means they have a metal tab you can attach to a heatsink. I mounted them to an aluminum plate under the relay board. I have the PWM feaqture turned off. I have driven all 6 six injectors off one output with sucess.

When I first got my 240Z it had a Crown kit, with an external waste gate and a modified SU with two float bowls. The performance was OK, but it was very tempermental, and I could only run around 5psi without detonation. Much faster than a stock 240Z, but no where near as fast as a L28ET in a 240Z. That's what is in there now. Go fuel injection, it's the only way to go.

If the 240SX it came from had cruise control, you have the longer shaft . I put a piece of 3/8" tube over mine so I didn't have to cut it and rethread. It's been working fine for close to 4 years now.

I think they are all pretty darn good. I've used the non webbed non EGR style. These are similar in shape to the turbo manifolds, but without the webs and smog fittings. They look the best. I'm using a 280ZX tapered style on a 240Z race car. Seems to flow pretty good. I welded up the EGR ports.

Was at the track last weekend, and I had one of the output sections that drive three of the 6 injectors failed. I'm using 5 Ohm current limiting resistors. Since I've got the MS setup to fire all six at once (not alternating), I did a quick hot wire to drive all six injectors off one output transistor. It not only worked, it survived 5 twenty minute sessions and a time trial! An easy way to limp home if you need to.