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Who Makes the Motorsport Metal Head Gasket? $150 seems kind of steep for a head gasket. I'd like to see if I can buy one elsewhere. Thanks

If you make a 0.75 - 1.0" spacer for the 240SX TB, you can use the stock 280Z-ZX throttle linkage. No modifications required.

If it is a non turbo application, just use the stock NA distributor and run fuel only. Get it up and running well in this configuration first. If you want to run spark control, you can always convert it later. If it is a turbo application, I would use the 82-83 distributor with spark control.

I'm thinking of using a P79 on a flat top turbo motor. I know that the turbo exhaust manifold ports are square, and P79s are round. From what I've read hear the P79 flows as good as the P90. Is it worth removing the liners in the P79 so that there is a smooth transisition between the head and the manifold? Or should I just leave the liners and smooth the transition as good as I can with them in there? Also, how is the P79 cam for turbo applications? Is it similar in profile to the P90? I'm building a budget turbo motor, and I have the P79 sitting on the shelf, so I would like to use it. Thanks in advance,

You can use it with either one because the MS takes its trigger from the "-" side of the coil.

Well you know what a picture is worth.... Thanks for all the effort.

We did one or two track sessions at Watkins Glen with it on there!

Thanks for all the replies. It's going in a track only car that needs to be reliable for long durations of boost. For that reason I will probably only run 7psi. I figure that should give me close to 200HP at the wheels. It will be intercooled, and will have Megasquirt driving Ford EDIS. It's a budget racer so forged pistons are out of the question. I thought the F54 flat top piston design was the same as the turbo, except that the turbo pistons are dished. Is this true, are the ring land sizes the same?

So would you guys say that the Nissan OEM flat tops are as strong at the Nissan OEM turbo pistons? I believe that their design is similar. Thanks,

Anyone Running Boost on F54 Flat tops and P90 Head? I figure the CR to be around 8.5:1. A 2mm gasket will lower it to around 8:1. Are the F54 OEM flat top pistons up to lets say 7psi of boost? Thanks

Thanks a bunch Sam. I'll be converting an L28 turbo to EDIS this winter, and could use some pointers.

Yes the MSII sends it signal, and this signal contains the timing information. There is a slight processing delay, which can be nulled out using the trim adjustment in the MS and a timing light. Yes the dwell is controlled by the EDIS, which is fine, because it is optimized for the EDIS coils. The problem is that when you use the distrbutor with MSII or MSnS_E, it limits your timing adjustment range. With a direct fire ignition with crank trigger (EDIS), you have complete control over timing. You can adjust the timing in ways that are not possible using a distributor.

MS II can control any EDIS system. The EDIS sytem includes the iginter.

When I solder a crimp connector, I only solde where the actual crimp is done. Again, solder alone does not give you mechanical strength, but the crimp connector will. They also sell crimp butt connectors that have solder and flux in them. Crimp, then heat it with a heat gun. They come with heat shrink on them so it is real simple.

Learn how to solder, it's really easy. Get some flux core electronic solder (Radio Shack), and a pistol style iron (heats up fast). Also pick up some heat shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape. I use the crimp connectors without the insulation, then I solder them. This way to get the mechanical connection from the crimp, and a solid electrical connection through the solder. Heat shrink it and your done.

The Ford EDIS system is wasted spark. Whats nice about it is the serial interface. One wire from teh trigger, and one wire to the EDIS unit. I know there are guys running them on other engines, just wonding if anyone has put the trigger wheel on an L-Series. You can get EDSI in 4, 6, and 8 cyl versions. This place is selling used junkyard units: http://home.earthlink.net/~beanbooger/boost_engineering/

Anyone using MS V3 with a Ford EDIS system on an L6?

Tony, Pete hear from the convention. Fixed the MS in the club car last night. Seems that those 37 pin D connector screws that I meant to install, never got installed. ItThe cable at the relay board wiggled loose after lets say, 20 track sessions. The screws on the cables are different than the nuts I put on the MS case and relay board. I just never got around to replaceing the screws. Kind of like remembering to remove the 10mm wrench from the brake bleeder screw before taking it back out on the track 8^). Thanks for your help with the club car, and Dan appreciated your help with his dangling gas tank.

I've dyno tuned 350Zs putting close to 400HP at the wheels, they have had no problems with the tranny. The VQ35 engine, well thats another story.

All Lseries cranks are forged, and all of the L28 cranks and rods are the same. As far as the RB25 swap, it is a lot more involved, and a lot more expensive to rebuild. It's also going to take you a lot more time. It is really a big project.

Oh no, that quench word again. I am running an N47 from a 280ZX. So I gues I am quenchless!. Pete

Hear are more pics of Bob Sharp Cars:

The Procharger and Vortech can make a lot of power (I've tuned 350Zs and got over 380WHP). The problem is that the the boost increases with RPM at a very linear rate. Unlike a turbo setup where boost increases at an almost logarithmic rate. The difference is in the seat of your pants. This is because the turbo reaches full boost at a very low RPM, where the centrifugal SC makes full boost at red line. On the 350Zs I've tuned we get around 8psi at 6500RPM. Yea, great HP numbers, but you have to rev the piss out of it to really FEEL the power.

We have had similar problems with my turbo Z and a customers turbo Z on a Dynapack. If the ramp rate is too high when we are doing a standard pull (not fixed load or RPM), the thing starts bucking like a bronco, and you can smell the clutch. Its like the engine is fighting the dyno, and the dyno is fighting back. All this surging torque is too much for the clutch. I suppose we lost some material on the clutch disk, but it doesn't slip on the street. The dyno dynamically varyies the load to match the torque at the wheels. If this ramp rate too steep, the car and dyno start oscillating (kind of like a tank circuit for you EE types). It's a little scary for sure because the frequency of the oscillation gets faster and faster. With the Dynapack you can select many dfferent ramp profiles. You can also adjust the load directly like a Dynojet. Anyway, we found one that works well with L6 turbos. The Dynapack is an awesome tuning tool for sure.

I'm running a Megasquirt on my F54/N47 setup. It's really a great setup as you can move each RPM and load point (and of course adjust injector opening time) to match the engines fuel requirements. I was able to get the mixture to a safe 13:1 (+- 0.5) throughout the entire RPM band. Richening it up more than 13:1 didn't stop the detonation when I tried more than 26 deg max advance. Again, maybe race fuel would have cured it, but I want to run street gas to save $. So I just backed off the timing to 26.