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I recently built a stock bore/stroke L28 with flat tops and an N47 head (~10:1 CR). The head is bone stock, with stock cam. Only mods are 6-1 header, 60mm throttle body, port matched intake, and Megasquirt fuel injection controller. 164HP and 175ft-lbs at the wheels. That's close to 200HP at the crank with an essentialy stock 2.8L. Thing is a ball to drive, with plenty of "spank". Dan, how's married life treatin' ya? Pete

I know for sure the 82 and 83 280ZXs has them (non turbo). I have a set of used ones if you are interested. Pete

Duplicolor makes nice wheel paint. The have a metalic grey that looks more like metalic gunmetal. Real nice finish. I've had really good luck with the Duplicolor products. Pete

Ken, What will be the CR of the motor? What gasket are you using? Also, for a crank trigger signal, are you going to use the 83' turbo distributor as you did with the previous ECU? Sounds like for the throttle body you just need to hit the junkyard with the bolt spacing, and look for one that is close. The other option is to machine and adapter. Pete

Looks great Ken. Sounds like that Stillen inlet tube is going to work great for you. Is that the one that is in the picture? I remeber the discussion with Steven Millen at the Convention track day, and he seemed to think that SC was a good fit for a 2.8L (although he didn't seem to know what an L28 was ). It was also real cool to get some pointers from Steve on the Streets of Willow too ! BTW, I'm installing an AEM Wolf 3D V4 in Brad's (roostmonkey's) car in the next few weeks, I'll let you know how it goes. The Electromotive systems are nice, but not so easy to program from what I've heard. That's what I like about the Wolf, its pretty darn easy to get up and running. We're shooting for 300HP at the wheels (T04E/T3, stock L28ET long block). Pete

Yes, I think it was Steve, but he has a Garett hybrid turbo on there now I think. Nice, and really knowlegable about turbo Zs. He was also at the LA convention this year and ran his car on the big track at Willow Springs. Pete

My regulator is mounted in the driver's side firewall. I made a fixture so that I could look at fuel pressure while driving. I made it from 1/8" copper turbing, compression fittings and NPT fittings (all hardware store stuff). I bent it so I could route it through the gap between the hood and the cowl (need the hood popped to do this). When I need to see the fuel pressure while driving, I wait for the system pressure to drop, then I remove my pressure gauge from the FPR, and screw it to the test fixture. I then screw the fixture to the FPR. I then tape it to the windshield. Works great, and it very safe. Pete

I met a guy at the San Antonio convention that had run a Typhoon turbo on a L28ET. He said it was a great turbo, especially since he got his hands on one real cheap. The intake and exhaust plumbing was different, but the 4 bolt turbine inlet flange was the same. Pete

Paul Newman raced this Bob Sharp 240Z as a 280Z in the 70s. The only difference was the 280Z tail light panel (and a 2.8L motor), so yes, it can be done. As Dan said, probably the whole underlying rear sheet metal was swapped. Next time I see this car (I know the owner), I'll take a closer look. Pete

These are for my wife's 280Z which has a bad toe in problem. I've got new tires on there and they are already showing wear. I'm not sure if you can just buy one set, but wouldn't it deform the other inner busings? I have poly ones on there now. Thanks, Pete

I know you can get the adjustable rear control arm bushings for an S30 body through MSA. Are there any other sources people are using? MSA seems a bit pricey. Thanks, Pete

The AP brake products are awesome, but they are really expensive too. Those calipers are probably over $500 a piece. If I were building an F1 car I'd definitely have APs on there, but even for street, autocross, or even road course racing, they are overkill. I'm running the Wilwood forged super lights with 1.25x12" rotors on my 240Z and the braking performance is awesome. You can get these calipers for around $128 a piece, and I think the 12" rotors were $40 each. Pete

If everything is stock (injectors, etc), then see if you can find an AFM that hasn't been mucked with. You should run the stock FPR too. Get it running good in stock form first, then start modifying things.

Sounds to me like a sensor problem, like water temp or the air flow meter. Does it run rich all the time, regardless of engine temperature? Pete

What is your setup? Pete

You should measure +12v between the coil "+" terminal and chassis ground. Not sure what you would see across the + and - coild terminals. There is a black wire with a white stripe in the 240Z harness that provides power to the coil. Make sure it is connected to the + terminal of the coil. Hope this helps. Pete

Tim, Can you make this post a sticky? Lots of great info on a subject that always seems to come up. Pete

Bring it to a shop that has done L6 heads before. Let them dissasemble it, as it won't save much by doing it yourself. Plus, you need to keep the rocker and lashpad together, and marked as to which cam lobe they go with. A good shop that has done L6 heads before should already know this. Ask your local shop these kind of questions to get a feel for his expertise. I had a 3 angle valve job done for $180 last winter, and that included pressure testing. Hope this helps Pete

Much too high for turbcharging. 8.5:1 max, and that's with fuel and ignition controlled by engine management. If you really want to do this, you would be better off starting with a junkyard turbo motor. CR would be around 7.4:1. Pete

There was a triple carb blow through turbo setup at this years convention. Beautiful installtion. He said he was getting something like 380HP at the wheels. He said it was a bear to tune, and it was a bit tempermental. What is your compression ratio now? Pete

There is plenty of info here, you just need to do a little searchin'... Your best bet for GM engine related Megasquirt (MS) info would be the MS Yahoo group. That's where most of the MS experts reside. Pete

Yes, mount it close to the tank, hook up your hoses and power, and you are ready to go. I'm using one in a 240Z race car, and so far it has worked great. Pete

Ron, Saw you and the car at the Convention, and you are doing an amazing job! Hope to see it on the track in 2006 in Texas! Pete

I've got similar problem going on with my brakes too. I had a line go in the rear, and I lost all the fluid in the rear system. I've since replaced the line, and bled the MC, and the entire system at least 4 times, and I still have a soft pedal. It goes to the floor. Even softer with the engine running. Before the brake hose let go the brakes were working awesome. I have 240SX rear, Wilwood front, with a 7/8 MC, and 240Z booster. I bought a new booster and MC, but after reading this thread, I must still have air in the system. Maybe it's worth pulling the MC and bleeding it out of the car so I know I'm getting a full stroke. Pete

I'm not sure about the ZX, but the 240Zs have a little rubber bumper in the lower rear corner of each door. They keep tension on the door to keep it from rattling. They are always poping out On the 240Z. Hope this helps, Pete