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The N47 that I'm using came out of a 280ZX, so it has the same size valves as other L28 heads. Pete

I'm running an N47 on a F54 block with flat tops (~10:1CR), and it runs great. Real spunky. It's in a track/autocross car I built with some freinds. We did an autocross yesterday for the first time, and I'm quite happy with it. BTW, it has a stock cam, Megasquirt, and a header/supertrapp exhaust. Pete

I used Witchhunter, and was happy with the service. Quick turn around, and easy to do business with. Pete

260DET, Where are you ordering your wheels from? I'm also looking at the BC P1 Racing in a 16x7.5 with +12mm offset. Did you verify that the centerbore will fit a 240Z hub? There is a place in SC that can order them for $280 a piece. THere is also a place in Canada, but there will be an additional charge getting them into the states. Thanks, Pete

You will need to section the struts if you have the ground control kit. If you don't section, you won't have much travel. You can use the 240Z front cartriges in the rear, and return the 240Z rear cartriges for MR2 cartriges and use them in the front. Pete

Any 15x7 with as 4" BS (zero offset) will work fine. I think you can run up to a 4.5" BS max with stock suspension (no coil overs). So in theory you could run a 15x7.5" with a 4.5" BS, and not rub fenders. Try to find that size though, nearly impossible. A 3.5" BS is too little, as you will have problems with rubbing fenders unless you are running stock ride height. Pete

Don't waste time or $ running anything but NGK plugs. Nissan uses them for a reason, they are excellent plugs. Use the same plug that came in your Z from the factory, unless you have been told by an expert to run a different heat range because of modifications. Then just slect the correct heat range. Don't run a platinum plug unless it came with them from the factory. Pete

I think they just rounded up for some reason. There isn't a standard 4x114 bolt circle, but as you know, there is a 4x113.3 Pete

Wow, I thought my R4S pad were toast (chunks comming off at my last track event). Is that the metal backing plate? Melted right through? Holy Sh*t! Of course you realize that the R4S pads are not good for high temp track use, especially with no venting, and solid rotors. For the track 240Z I've been working on, we are going to try the R4 pads first. Hopfully we get the ducting done before the first track event. Pete

I was at MSA this year, and didn't see you either Eric. Absolutely loved that green chopped convertible. And as usual, your photos make it seem like I am still at the show looking at the car! Pete

Just get a universal flex hose of the correct inside diameter. Finding a molded hose to fit may be difficult. The top hose requires the same, or you can use a piece of pipe and cut the stock upper hose into two sections. Pete

Send your stock injectors out for cleaning, that will make you Z run better. No modifications needed! The best $100 you could spend to get you Z runnig better. BTW, the stock 280Z injectors are around 19.5lb/hr (I just got a set back from servicing with the flow sheet). There are many injectors that will fit the manifold (Bosch style with pintle tip), but the problem is that not many have hose barbs (most are o-ring). They should also be low impedance to work correctly with the factory ECU. When you are ready to go turbo, think about bigger injectors then. Going to larger injectors now will only make tuning difficult. Pete

Most pumps like to have fuel moving through them for lubrication. I'm not sure if the Holley pumps cares. I know most EFI pumps need that flow for lubrication. If you are idling in traffic, the lift pump (low pressure) will not be moving much fuel. Another nice thing about a return from the surge tank to the main tank is that it always keeps the fuel in the surge tank at least as cool as the fuel in the main tank. Not sure what you made the tank from, but it looks like a great fit. I used the steel 240Z vapor (expansion) tank as a surge tank. So far it's been working fine. Pete

As per Tony D, the ZCCA has a lot to offer a new club just starting up. The whole idea behind the ZCCA was to bring many clubs together, so that they may have a greater influence with Nissan, group insurance, and parts discounts. Not to memtion the $$ Nissan kicks in every year for the Convention. I'd sugest any new club look closely at the advantages of becoming a ZCCA member club. http://www.zcca.org BTW, the ZCCA is definitely not for just purists. They welcome all Z enthusiasts! Pete ZCCNE VP (member ZCCA)

A 240Z, or MSA fiberglass 240Z bumper will fit, and look a lot nicer. Pete

Do 260Zs have tank drain plugs? If they do, drain the tank, and see what kind of junk comes out. You can use the drain hole as a fuel pump pickup. I used mine like that until I had a mini sump welded in. Pete

I'm going to have the track car on the dyno next month, so I'll bring your map along and try it. Here is the engine config: 10:1 L28, stock bore Stock N47 head and cam 6:1 header 2.5" exhaust with 3" supertrapp. 60mm TB 19lb injectors Pete

Sims76, What other mods have you done to your engine (header, TB, compression ratio, etc)? Thanks, Pete

In the 10:1 L28 power 240Z track car I have a MS in, I too had to set the number of squirts higher than one. I think I have it set to 2. I'm running stock 19lb injectors too. It runs much smoother. Check that your TPS is still OK. Use the calibration tool in Megatune. I had a problem with it being way too rich, because my TPS failed. What would happen is the voltage on the TPS input would slowly creap up, confusing the MS into thinking that the throttle was open. Two sets of plus later, and a lot of black stains on the floor behind the car, I finall fixed it. Runs awesome now. I assume you are running simultaneous injection? I am. Pete

Any L6 distributor, shaft, and pump will work. I just happened to have an L24 on hanging around. Pete

Like sims76 said, spray some WD40 or carb cleaner around the base of each injector and see if the ide changes. If it does, you have a vacuum leak. You could have an injector that is bad, or clogged. I assume that they are used? I think it's worth spending an extra $100 to have them cleaned and checked. If just a couple of cylinders are running lean, I would point the finger at the injectors. Another thing to keep in mind is that a turbo L6 doesn't require much fuel to idle, so if you put much bigger than stock injectors in, you will have to do quite a bit of fine tuning to get it to idle smooth. The problem is that the injector opening time may be too small for the injector to respond. I'm assuming that they are high Z injectors, correct? Hope some of this helps, Pete

Juan, Why not just section the strut tube while you have it appart? I assume you are putting coil overs on? Pete

I flush my fluid a few days before an event. Definitely use DOT4 fluid at a minimum. The Porterfield R4S pads are a good street/track compromise. If you don't drive your car on the street much, get the Porterfield R4, Hawk, or some other race pad. Full race pads usually require quite a bit of heat before they actuall start working, so they are not good for autocross. You need to experiment a bit to find the best pad for you. Pete

http://www.cruzinperformance.com I've had him do 3 sets of L6 injectors for me. Does gre work. About $100 per set with new seals and hoses. I'm running a set in my turbo car now, and it purs like a kitten. Pete

It can take quite a while to fill all the oil galleys in an L6 block. I take and old L24 distributor and shaft. Take the drive gear off the shaft, and install it, along with the oil pump, in place of the one you plan on installing permenantly. You can press the gear off with a press, or you can do it with a vise. Take the advance mechanism out of the L24 distributor, and install it in the engine. Put your 3/8" drill on the distributor shaft, and run the drill backwards (CCW). You will notice at first that the drill isn't working too hard, that is untill the oil gets to the pump, then you will hear the drill start to work. Have the valve cover off, and once you start seeing oil come out of the holes in the camshaft, you are done. Remove the L24 distributor, and DON"T FORGET TO REMOVE THE SHAFT WITH NO GEAR! If you forget to remove this shaft, the oil pump and distributor will not turn. Install the oil pump and shaft (with gear) as per your favorite manual. I've done this on three L6s, and it works great. Pete