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Although that is one of the better carb turbo setups (draw through), carburated turbo setups aren't that great. I had a Crown kit on my L24 (used a singe SU instead of the Holley), and turbo lag was plentiful, and so was detonation. I was running stock L24 CR with and E88 head. I dumped it and went with an L28ET setup with aftermarket FI and have never looked back. If you want something to fiddle with, get it. Mine was very tempermental. I had to run the timing retarded to prevent pinging, and even then on ocasion it would ping. The bottom line, I spent more time screwing with it than actually driving it... Pete

Yes, the 280ZX radiator will bolt right into a 280Z. It will extend below the bottom of the radiator support slightly more than the 280Z radiator, but not enough to cause clearance problems. As far as an aluminum unit, I just bought the Summit Racing 25"x19" aluminum racing radiator for my car. The only thing I need to do is have some brackets welded on because GM radiators mount from the top and bottom, not the sides like a Z. Besides routing the hoses, it looks like it will fit nice. The filler neck is on the passenger side. $169 from Summit. Not surprised about MSA selling something that doesn't fit, they do it all the time. They sent me brown seat covers twice when I asked for red. The guy working S&R must be color blind . Cheers Pete

One of the bearing surfaces is rusty. It was seized in the cam tower. I soaked it in penatrant for a few days, and it came right out. I guess if none of the surfaces are pitten, then it's probably OK, right? Thanks, Pete

I picked up an N47 head reacently cheap. It looks like it has never been run before. The valves are clean and so are the combustion chambers. It looks like it was bolted on a car, and then never run. Anyway, it also looks like it has been sitting around for a while, and the cam and lifters have surface rust on them. Anyone know the best way to remove this without damaging the cam or lifters. I was thinking fine scothch brite and WD40. Or maybe fine steel wool. Is the cam junk once it get's rusty? Any suggestions? Thnaks, Pete

You can use the 240SX TB without a spacer, but you can't use the stock throttle linkage. You will have to go with some sort of cable setup. The 240SX TB comes with everyhting to use a cable, but if you want the factor 280Z linkage, you will need the spacer. Pete

I know of somone getting 350HP at the wheels with a junkyard motor. New metal head gasket, new timing chain, guides, and tensioner is all he did to it. You'd be surprised at how durable these motors are. I just pulled appart an F54 NA motor with well over 100K miles on it, and there was absolutely to ridge to ream. I hot tanked, magnefluxed, honed, and re-ringed it. Like a new motor now. Pete

One thing to keep in mind running a turbo car on the track is, when it's wet, it sucks. I've run my car in the rain on the track and it's incredibly hard to control with all the torque in the low RPMs . Even when the boost turned down to 7, wheelspin is hard to control (I'm running an LSD too). On the other hand, when the conditions are dry, it is absolutely awesome. The torque allows me to shift less. I find myself staying in 3rd around tight turns, when other Zs are going down to second. Bottom line, when it's slick, it's hard to control wheelspin when the boost comes on. Great on the skidpad though Pete

I have a T3/T4B with the stock280ZXt turbine (0.63). The compressor is a 0.60 AR. I'm in the process of installing it. I will post dyno numbers this spring. Pete

Put a new chain in today, and timing marks line up perfectly using #1 marks. Only about 1/8" of the tensioner shaft visible. All set to go. Thanks everyone

You must use programmable FI if you go to larger injectors. That being said, if the progammable ECU you are using does not have a fine enough fueling resolution, you will never get a smooth idle. Some systems have more resolution than others. I'm running 380cc/min injectors with my setup, and the idle is smooth. I know of others running the same ECU I am on a 4 cylinder with 500cc/min injectors, and it idles like **** . When picking injectors, I would first calculate the injector flow rate for a "realistic" HP goal, and then add 20%. This will give you head room in case you want to go to the next step.

The 3.1 kit is made from Nissan components, so it is very stout. But if you are going to run 20psi of boost, I think a stock L28ET long block is stronger. I think you'd be better off finding a low mileage L28ET long block, and use the money left over for a big turbo, intercooler, and programmable engine management. There are people out making over 400HP with a stock long block in the above configuration. Pete

Jeff wrote: First, I assume left is passenger side, right is driver side (USA). When you say adjuster, are you talking about the curved guide on the passenger side? I can't see how the sping loaded tensioner cold not touch the chain. Thisis the procedure I used. I set the crank to TDC. I calibrated the timing marker to TDC before I put the head on, so I put the timing cover back on momentarily with the damper to set the crank at TDC. I then put the chain and spocket on, and snug the sproket bolt. I then turn the cam counter clockwise (from front) until there is no slack on the driver's side. I do this because I don't want to move the crank from TDC. I then look at the timing marks on the cam tower and sproket to see if they align. If they don't, I take the sprocket off, and go to the nxt number for the chain and sprocket. Hole #3 on mine shows perfect alignment of marks, so I think I might replace the chain and sprockets. Or should I just use the one that is good and stretched? An adjustable sproket is not in the budget (unless someone knows how to make one , I've got machine shop access). Pete

I think I got it figured out, correct me if I'm wrong. When you time the cam, you need to install both guides, and the tensioner. Now if the cam is slightly off, but the crank is still at TDC, then there could be significant slack on the slack side. So what I did was, turn the cam slightly untill there was minimal slack on the slack side (the tensioner takes up the slack). I checked the timing marks, and they didn't line up, so I moved the chain and sprocket to the number 2 position (following the same procedure), and wha-la, the marks line up perfectly , and no slack. The tensioner is sticking out about 1/4" from it's holder. Should be OK (I hope). Pete

Thanks Katman, This motor will be used for autocross and time trials, so I want to be sure. Right now the slack side has almost an inch of slop in it. Too much if you ask me. I'll need to measure the head, and then go from there. I may just throw a new chain and sprokets in there. Pete

I'd do the 240SX swap wit a 1" spacer to retainthe stock linkage. Works great. I would however ditch the N42 manifold, unless it has webbing between the runners. I had a problem with heat last summer where the fuelin the injectors was vaporizing at idle in traffic. It basically would start running like sh*t . Never had the problem with the turbo intake manifold I was running the year before. So, I'm swapping the turbo manifold back in (after having all the holes welded up and smoothed). While I'm in there, I'm upgrading the turbo to a T4B/T3 hybrid Pete

It connects to a Tee where the oil pressure sender is (next to the oil filter). You need to get the NIssan Tee, or re-tap the block for 1/8 NPT and do whatever you want. Just don't get any metal chips in the oil galley (rebuild time). Pete

Does anyone know "how much" play is acceptable on the slack side? I have new guides, and tensioner installed, so the chain is tight on the tensioner side. Pete

Anyone know how much slack on the timing chain "slack side" is acceptable? I'm using hole #1 on the cam gear, and the timing marks seem to be OK (they overlap). But it seems like there is a lot of slack. The head I'm using may have been milled. I know it's been posted before, but what is the stock head height? I'm using a stock head gasket. The timing mark on the cam tower lines up with the one on the cam gear like this: I'm not sure about the miles on the chain, but the engine it came from was spotless, and had very little wear. Any info appreciated. Pete

The T4 compressor housing I'm installing does not have hose barbs for connection the waste gate actuator like the stock T3. Where is the best place to connect the waste gate actuator hose, right at the compressor outlet? Pete

Hey Dan, you wrote: You don't have to go through all the expense of tripple throttle bodies for FI. Get a late 280ZX inatake manifold, and port match it to the head and gasket. Get a 240SX throttle body, and make a 1" spacer for it. Port match the spacer to the intake manifold, and that's it. You can probably do this for less than $100. WAY cheaper than multiple throttle bodies. Not a sexy though. No linkage to mess with either, you can use the stock Nissan linkage. You can also use the stock fuel rail, regulator, and turbo injectors if you need the extra flow. Run all this with a MAP based FI controller, and you will have total control over fuel at all RPMs and manifold pressures. Beats the livin' sh*t out of carbs (IMO)! Pete

This Aussie company makes awesome looking TBs that fit webber manifiolds. http://www.speed-technology.com/efi_main_page.html Pete

I used a stock aftermarket head gasket on my L28ET rebuild. I sprayed it with three coats of copper spray before installing it. I've run just over 15psi of boost without any problems. Pete

This is the same as the Bosch pump I'm running: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400615485&category=33555

I'm building such a motor (F54, N47). Just put the head on last night. Want to share any of the information you have discovered? Pete

I'd be worried about getting the oil galleys, and coolant passages lines up and sealed when the pieces are welded together. Cool idea though. Pete