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I used Summit 3/8" aluminum fuel lines, and a combination of braided SS #8 and #6 hose. I used compression fittings to translate between AN fittings and aluminum tube. Another option (I just did this on our club 240Z race car). We had an extra 240Z 5/16" solid line, so I ran it in place of the 5/16" charcoal canister line. So now We have both a 5/16" feed and return line on the car. It was easy (especially since the car is on a rotiserie). Another option would be to take the 5/16" canister line, and using a tubing bender, bend it so that it runs along the passenger frame rail. Pete

Look at the Bosch "small" racing pump. The one I have flows enough fuel for 630HP at 43psi. I've had mine in there for three years without problems. It's nice and quiet too. You should be able to get one for less than $200.

A freind of mine is running a stock 280ZXt motor in his 240Z. He's running 10psi without an intercooler without any problems (I wouldn't go any higher than that). After a local cruise night last year, he had no problem keeping up with a real nice 396 Camaro that was getting on it, and that was when he was running 7psi. A stock ZXt motor will give abot the same seat of the pants feel as a stock Chevy 350 crate motor. A real nice feeling I might add... Pete

I'm using 2.25" steel tube, which matches the inlet and outlet of my IC. Did the heat and stretch thing to get a 2.25" ID turbo hose to slip onto the 240SX 60mm TB. No noticable lag between running the J pipe and the spearco with 2.25" plumbing. Pete

I forgot to mention, the FPR regulator I'm using IS adjustable. I have it set to 38psi at idle, and it hits around 55psi at 12psi of boost. I was mistaken in my previous post where I said the idle FP was 48psi. I meant 38psi. Pete

I've had the rising rate FPR in there for three years, and it works great. Since I can adjust the injector mS value for each load point, it doesn't matter if it is rising rate or not. In the end, the fuel map is tuned to match the engine fuel requirments, and the fuel pressure vs manifold pressure curve. It all comes out in the wash. Pete

I have a perfect L24 crank sitting on my bench I would donate to research. What's your zip? Pete

Wat I was trying to say is, that the proper air/fuel ratio is what is important, not the injector size. You can put giant injectors in, and if you don't have a way to tweak the air/fuel ratio, your not going to make the most power. I know of somone gettting 350 at the wheels running 340cc/min injectors at 90%DC. The turbo is going to fit great, I just need to modify the waste gate actuator slightly. BTW, anyone re-use turbin inlet and exhaust gaskets? Mine look in good shape. I was just going to spray them with copper spray and reuse them. Pete

I'm running 36lb/hr Bosch. Fuel pressure is 48psi at idle, and 55psi full boost. Bosch racing fuel pump good for 600HP. Malpasi rising rate FPR. Really though, injector size isn't important. What's important is maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio. If I need to up my injector size I will. I figure 36lb/hr should be good enough for close to 350HP. Thanks, Pete

I'm getting ready to send out my F54 block for hot tanking and honing (abolutely no ridge to ream). I've read that before boring you should install and torque the main caps. Do I need to do it if the blcok is just being honed? Thanks, Pete

That's a turbo block! All F54 NAs came with flat top pistons. For a 3.0, all you need is 9mm L24 rods, KA24 (240SX) pistions and bore it 3mm. For a 3.1, you need the above, plus a diesel crank, and you'll need to flycut the pistions too. Pete

I'll be installing my new turbo soon, and wanted to get an idea about how much power I should expect from my system. Here are the details: T3/T4b turbo, .60 compressor, .63 turbine Stock L28ET long block. Scottie GNZ down pipe Programable ECU (MAP) (fuel and crank trigger ignition) Spearco intercooler with 2.25" plumbing 240SX TB K&N filter 12-15psi boost Right now, with the T3 turbo, it is making around 270HP at the crank (12psi) Any info appreciated. Pete

I guess I was trying to say that the pulse width is measured in time, and RPM is really a measurement of frequency If you add the injector off time to the injector on time (100% DC), and invert the result, you will have the engine frequency in cycles per second. Kind of long and convoluted, but that's where I was trying to go. Thanks for the description about the relationship between intake manifold pressure and pulse width. It does make sense. Come to think of it, I've seen this behavior on my aftermarket EFI computer which displays injector open time in ms. If you look at the load band, the injector open time (pulse width) is almost constant over the entire RPM range. The frequency at which the injectors open increases with RPM, but the pulse width stays constant. Excellent description. My problem is that I think of it from an EEs point of view, when there are a lot more to engine dynamics than electrical signals that control it. Pete

Actually, engine RPM does dictate the pulse width. As engine RPM increases, so does fuel requirments, so the pulse width needs to increase. As I wrote in my previous post, "engine RPM dictates the frequency at which the pulses occur". This is accurate. Engine RPM is typically less than 10K RPM (Hz), and the pulse width is some fraction of the pulse cycle (1/frequency). This is why width is typically measured in milliseconds. Otherwise you would be dealing with extra decimal places and or scientific notation to describle the pulse width in let's say nanoseconds. Pete

Actually... Pulse width is the width of the pulse driving the injectors as measured in time. Typically the voltage of the "on" pulse is zero, because the injector driver provide a ground to the injector to energize them. Because engine RPM dictates the frequency at which these pulses occur, the pulse width is usually measure in milliseconds. Duty cycle is the percentage of time the injector is open vs closed. If the "on" pulse width was 10ms, and these pulses occured every 100ms, the duty cycle would be 10%. It's basically a way to measure what percentage of the time the injectors are on. Pete

Yes, I joined this list, and I'm amazed by the amount of traffic. Anyway, I missed the latest buy for complete kits, and got a couple of PCBs. I've got my parts kit ordered from Digikey, so I'm hoping to get it assembled over the nexty month or so (got to get the motor together first!). I'm also building a test stand for the motor using an extra front cossmemeber. This way I can at least debug it at idle before transporting it to the metal fab shop where the car is. BTW Pete, the IAC is a nice to have, your foot will work too. My turbo 240Z has an aftermarket computer that won't drive an IAC directly either. It just idles real low when cold. Not too much of an issue though. YOu could get you system installed and running as is. Once the engine is warmed up, the IAC does nothing anyway. Just a thought. Here is the plan: L28 (F54) with N47 head (~10:1CR) 280ZX distributor Stock 280Z pump/regulator/fuel rail 280ZX manifold Stock injectors (have some turbo ones if needed) KA24 TPS (fits 280Z TB nice) Tim240Z: resend your email, I don't think I got it. Pete

Tony, I'm planning on building a MS for a race car project. I'm building a 10:1 L28. I plan on using a KA-24 (240SX) TPS, and the recommended air and coolant temp sensors. Have you got anything running yet? Pete

Anyone know of a souce for cheap flares for my race car project (240Z)? Any info appreciated. Pete

I'm using this 750lb one to rebuild and L28 now: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32915 It's plenty strong enough to hold a complete engine with manifolds. Pete

Personally, anything that piggy backs onto a stock ECU, and costs $800 is a waste. Spend the extra $500 or so (or less) and get a complete, self contained programmable ECU to control the fuel and ignition. That way you can ditch the AFM, and a lot of other old wiring,and start fresh. Retaining the old stock ECU, and splicing this piggy back computer to is, cannot be good for reliability. Just my $0.02 Pete

Since you have the donar car, this kind of swap isn't all that bad if you can read a schematic, and have good wiring skills. Youl will need to run a new fuel return line to the tank (5/16" or greater). You willalso need to mount the fuel pump from the 280 back near the tank. The rest of the installation is wiring related. When pulling the engine fromt he 280Z, keep as much of the harness intact as you can. Then it's really a matter of wiring power to the FI system. You will need a relays for the computer and the fuel pump. You should be able to use all of that from the 280Z. Get yourself a factory 280Z manual, and a book on Bosch L-Injection. Good luck! Pete

I just discovered the whole Megasquirt thing, and I think it's awesome! I'm thinking seriously about building one for our local club's race car (10:1 NA L28). I was going to use the FI out of a 78' 280Z, but I may just go for the Megasquirt. As far as an internal MAP sensor being a dissadvantage, I'd have to dissagree. My Wold 3D has one, and it works great. The Wolf must scale the MAP sensor output. By changing a switch setting, I can change the MAP range to atmospheric, 12psi, or 21psi. Easy hookup too (one hose). Pete

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- clifton wrote: MKIV's are, I believe 550cc and are side feed. MKIII Turbos are low impedance 2.9 430cc, MKIII N/A are high impedance 13.8 315cc. I think you might have non turbo injectors. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What color are the turbo injectors? The ones I have are top feed, and are green. They are a disc type. Pete

Since a 60mm TB will flow enough air for just over 500HP, I would think that time would be better spent improving intake manifold/head/exhaust flow. Unless you are building a 500+HP turbo motor, the 60mm 240SX TB is plenty big enough. If you are building that monstor turbo motor, a Mercedes 65mm TB can be adapted. Pete

I'm running one of the smaller Spearco intercoolers, and on a cool day (~60deg F) my ECU displays about 75 deg F as measured in the intake manifold. This is traveling down the highway at apporixmately 70MPH. Pete