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Everything posted by z-ya
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It all depends on what is the minimum impedance your computer can drive. Also, if you are batch firing two at a time in parallel, the impedance halves. So 1.8 Ohms now becomes 0.9 Ohms. Make sure when you measure the impedance that you use a good quality meter. Most inexpensive meters can't measure low impedances accurately. My Wolf 3d will drive a minimum of 1.2 Ohms, so two 2.4 Ohm injectors is all it can drive per bank. I'm runing the Bosch 36lb/hr hose barb injectors now, which are 2.4Ohm. I measured the impedance of the Surpra MK IV 480cc/min injectors I have and it's around 14 Ohms. A fair amount of modifications are need, but I may experiment with another manifold. Pete
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I picked up a F54 280ZX motor with flat tops, and I have an N47 head, so I think I'm going to do the cheaper route for the 78'. I figure a 9.8:1 L28 should put out as much as a 8.8:1 3.1L. I plan on running the stock injectors, with an adjustable FPR. If I feel that it is leaning out at high RPMs, I may go with a turbo pump, and or turbo injectors. I think the turbo injectors would be too much though. BTW, I have a freind who races a 280Z ITS car, and I've seen it put 150HP to the wheels runnig just a header, and the stock FI. Not bad for a stock 78' l28 with an N47 head and stock fuel injection. Pete
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Hey Tony, Wow, great job so far on this project. After looking at your web page recently, I think your on to something cool. I may have a potential Beta customer. I put an L28ET into a club member's 240Z last winter, and he is looking for more programability. He doesn't have much experience with electronics (that's why I did the wiring for him in exchange for some metal work). Let me know the details, and I'll see if he is interested. Pete
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I picked up a set of MK IV Turbo Supra injectors cheap. They are low impedance (peak and hold), and are oring type. They are made by Denso. Not sure if I will use them because they are quite different from a mechanical point of view. Some machining will ne necessary to make them fit an L6 manifold. They are also the disc style, where stock ZX injectors are pintle style. I was told that they are 480cc/min. Pete
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Is the inlet line large enough? ID the fuel filter before the pump clean? I had problems with my Bosch pump being loud. It ended up being the fuel filter before the pump having crud in it. I cleaned it and it's quiet. Also, make sure the pump isnot cavitating in other ways. Pete
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From what I've heard, if you plug up all the vent lines and remove the expansion tank, you willnot be able to fill it all the way. I bought some 10AN fuel line from Summit or Baker Precision, as it was a lot cheaper than the stock one. I would drop the tank, you may just need to tighten up some clamps to fix the problem. Pete
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I'm building an O-ring style fuel rail for my L6, and I need to know what size to machine the injector holes. Do all of these style injectors use the same size O-ring? I would think that the tollerance on the hole would be tight to prevent fuel leaks. Any info appreciated. Pete
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All I did on mine was drill and tap 1/8 NPT holes, and then go to the hardware store and buy some 1/8" NPT brass hose barbs. Use teflon tape on the threads, but be carefull not to get any tape inside the rail. Pete
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Anyone have the injector spacing meaurments for an L6? To do an O-ring type fuel rail, the spacing needs to be pretty precise. Also, anyone know what the hole size should be for an O-ring type injector? Again, I would think that the tollerance on those holes would be tight to prevent fuel leaks. Pete
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I think it matters which EFI computer you have, and what fueling resolution it is capable of. Pete
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You are correct. They are 36lb/hr, which translates to approximately 380cc/min at 43psi. I'm not sure how the 420cc/min rumor was started. Pete
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what is the status of the AEM engine management system?
z-ya replied to Bob_H's topic in Fuel Delivery
I think everyone should take alook at the Wolf 3D system before they make a decision on an EMS. I've been running one for three years now and I am totally satisfied with the quality, performance, and features. It's all got all the data logging capabilities, including min/max logging, and O2 logging for each map point. It also has real time displays for O2, RPM, load, and injecotr duty cycle. Everything you can modify, it logs. I think the Wolf3D system fits in universal applications the best. I think the only engine it can't control is a Harley engine. It'll run a Briggs and Stratton if you want it to, that's how flexible it is. Mine will run up to eight injectors, but I think the new V4.0 unit will run up to 12 injectors. Those Aussies know how to make engine management (they make the Motec and Haltec too). Pete -
Clint78z wrote: The DFI you can't set the timing on startup, you are stuck with whatever is built into the Chev igntion module. The DFI only takes control after the engine is spinning over 400rpm. I think 8 degrees is the module setting. If the DFI does not have a crank timing setting, then the timing will be whatever the distributor is set to. The GM HEI module adds minimal delay, so no noticable change in timing will be seen. Another thing that just came to mind: if you are using the distributor, then the DFI can only retard the timing (delay it) with relation to where the timming is via the placement of the distributor. Is this true? Pete
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I'm planning a 3.0L L28 build and wanted to know if anyone has done this utilizing the stock EFI setup. Can the stock 1978 280Z EFI system provide enough fuel for a 3.0L with a stock cam and 8.8:1 CR? Are there any mods I need to do to keep it from running lean, and getting the most power out of it? Thanks, Pete
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you wrote: It gives starter kickback like it is firing at the wrong time. Check that you have the plug wire connected correctly. I had a similar problem where the book I was using as a reference was inccorrect. The engine would almost start, but would kick back. If this isn't the problem make sure that the timming matches what you have set in the DFI. Does the DFI have a crank timming adjustment? If so, set it to zero. Put a timming light on it while someone else cranks it over. The timming with the light should read 0 degrees. If it doesn't, something is weird with your trigger wheel or something. Question: are you using a crank trigger? If so, why are you using the distributor?. Pete
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Hi Ron, You made the right decision going with EFI and a programmable computer. I have my FPR mounted on the passenger side firewall, which is one of the cooler areas under the hood. It may be that the fuel is getting too hot in the fuel rail, which is causing the fuel pressure to drop. I'm running a nonwebbed manifold, but I have the turbo heat sheild installed. It does seem to get much hotter around the fuel rail with this manifold. I did not have this problem last year with the turbo intake manifold. But I have changed a lot of other things since last summmer (injectors, TB, downpipe, etc). I'm leaning towards the fuel getting too hot in the manifold. Ron, what manifold are you running? Pete
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Just buy a 240SX TB from a junkyard. It will bolt u to the stock manifold. You will need to port match it to the manifold though. If you want to use the stock throttle linkage, you need to make 1" spacer too. Pete
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I have a weird problem. When it's hot out, and the engine compartment get's really hot from idling, or from a 20 minute session on the track, my idle fuel pressure can drop as much as 25psi. It has only happened a couple times. I'm running an adjustable Malpassi regulator. Typically what happens is I'll stop somewhere and shut off the engine. When I start it back up after it has been sitting, it will run like crap because the fuel pressure has dropped. If I adjust it it's fine until the engine cools off. Then I need to re adjust it because it is too high the next time I start it. Anyone have this happen? Pete
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With my L28ET powered EFI 240Z turbo, I do notice a little less power on hot days. It still haul ass though. It's less noticable on the highway at speed. I'm running a Spearco intercooler with 2.25" pipes, so that's probably why I don't notice much power loss. I also have the intercooler mounted infront of the radiator and oil cooler. I do have a weird problem though (I'll post it on the EFI forum), when it's hot out, and the engine compartment get's really hot from idling, or from a 20 minute session on the track, my idle fuel pressure can drop as much as 25psi. It has only happened a couple times. Anyone have this happen? Pete
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I recommend running a single 3/8" line in place of the stock return line. Then use the new 3/8" line as the feed, and the stock feed (5/16") for your return. I think you should always run a return line back from the fuel rail. this keeps the fuel and fuel rail cool while idling. I modified my 240Z tank for better baffling. You can also use a 75-76 EFI tank. Pete
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I know this is not a non-Z engine powered Z, but it is about the sweetest GT2 car I have seen. A friend of mine sponsors this car. It's a full tube frame race car that looks like a Z32, but is running a 300HP L28 (the largest displacement you can run in GT2) Pete http://www.caselnovamotorsports.com/car.html
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I know this is not a non-Z engine powered Z, but it is about the sweetest GT2 car I have seen. A friend of mine sponsors this car. It's a full tube frame race car that looks like a Z32, but is running a 300HP L28 (the largest displacement you can run in GT2) Pete http://www.caselnovamotorsports.com/car.html
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I've been trying to figure out this problem with my 240Z for a while now, and I think I've found it I was having a problem with a poor idle when electrical accessories would come on (lights, fans, etc.). I found that as the battery voltage dropped, the engine would idle progressively worse. Here is a link to fix I implemented: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/Injector-Regulator.pdf BTW, I'm running a Wolf 3D EFI computer in my car. Cheers Pete
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I agree with Scottie, just do it right and get a programmable engine management system. The money you are going to spend on the AIC, machining, welding, etc. could be put to better use on a new EFI computer. If you use the AIC, you still don't have any control over timing either, a must for a high HP turbo motor. Pete