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I have a bunch, what size do you need (4-40, 6-32, etc) Pete

Just slapping 370cc/min injectors in there will make it run really rich, especially at idle. If you want to retain the stock electronics, a better thing to do would be to add an EIC (extra injector controller) form SDS (http://www.sdsefi.com). Add two 370cc/min injectors upstream of the TB (for better fuel ditribution), and you have just added about 90HP of capacity to you fuel system. You may or may not need to upgrade you pump. The EIC will only enable the additional injectors when manifold pressure goes positive. That way you will retain your idle quality, and fuel economy when not boosting. Pete

Freeze plugs are either steel or brass plugs that are pressed into the block. They are there to prevent the block from cracking if the coolant freezes in the block. They are easy to remove, and replace. There are three sizes for the F54 block. Small ones go in the side, a medium sized one goes in the front for the block, and a large one goes in the rear. It's ag ood idea to remove these before hot tanking because the cleaning solution can more easily get to all the nooks and crannies in the block's water jacket. Pete

I installed an Autometer oil temp gauge in place of my clock. I installed the Autometer sender in the factory oil temp sender. I removed the OEM sender and drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. I screwed the Autometer sender into the OEM sender. Then I screwed the whole assembly back into the oil pan. It works great. The max oil temp I've seen so far is around 190 deg F. I'm am running an oil cooler. Haven't had it one the track yet though. I'll find that out in August. Pete

If you want to add additional injectors, I suggest upstream of the throttle body, not in the intake. You will get better fuel distribution across all cylinders. Spraying it where the cold start injector is may cause some cylinders to run lean. Not a good thing, especially when running positive manifold pressure. I'm looking into adding a couple of 36lb/min injectors in the intercooler plumbing about 1 foot before the TB. My aftermarket ECU supports staged injection, so I plan on using that feature. SDS make a nice extra injector controller (EIC) for people running the stock electronics. Pete

Send them out to Rich at Cruzin Performance. He has done two sets for me for $98 each. Pretty fast turn around too. http://www.cruzinperformance.com You are better off refurbishing your existing injectors, because the OEM ones are much better than the aftermarket junk (RAM) they sell at parts stores.

Download this program from the Sydney Z Car Club: http://www.zcarclub.com.au/lseries.htm

With a special needle that flowed more fuel. I was running two float bowls on my setup to keep it from leaning out around corners (fuel pump starvation). The reason why they don't make these kind of systems any more is because modern EFI is far superior. If you like the "look", you can retrofit an EFI throttle body to the turbo inlet, and weld some injector bungs into the E88 manifolds. Or use some sort of TBI unit. Come to think of it, wouldn't it be easier to just use the 280ZXt induction system as a starting point? Full circle... Pete

Hey Dan, Awesome numbers!! Post the plots when you get them. I'm dying to see you run with the new motor. Time for better brakes?? Are you doing the August COMSCC event? I plan on doing at least the school, and possibly the next day if I get the OK to solo. I hope to get my car back to New England Dyno soon to tune in the new turbo. What are they charging this year per hour? Did to pay extra for the "expert" next door? I really like them over there. They let you drive, and they were very reasonable. I also like dynos that are in the floor. Later, Pete

Here is what my motor looked like when I had a carb'd turbo setup: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/Z-engine.jpg Cool to look at, but fun to drive? Somewhat. Pain in the butt to keep running right? Yes. Constant tweaking? Yes. Constant fear of detonation? Yes. Will never go back.... Here are some images I scaned from the early 70's Crown Kit installation manual: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/crown1.jpg http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/crown2.jpg http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/crown3.jpg http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/crown4.jpg http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/crown5.jpg http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/crown6.jpg

The stim schematic is here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/files/Megasquirt%20Stimulator/

Search the archives for "240SX". There is plenty of info available. Pete

Eric and all, I really suggest you use the Megasquirt Yahoo group to get help. All the MS experts reside there. One suggestion, when all else fails, look at the schematic. If something doesn't make sense, look at the schematic to see how they connect. BTW, the LEDs will not light, unless the processor is running. I think I had mine wired in the wrong way the fist time too. I also had to adjust the series resistor value because mine were too dim (I used some LEDs I had hanging around). I think it's cool to update the HybridZ folks with your progress, but I suggest getting help through the MS people on Yahoo

Al, Thanks for the correction, it was a long day. The formula I remember is A = pi*R^2 . I was doing (pi*R)^2, and the multiplying by two because there are two ports. So now that I have my brain screwed back on right, it looks like area of the two 1.7" holes are somewhere between a 2.25" pipe and a 2.5" pipe. So if you are running a 2.25" exhast, there is no sense enlarging the manifold exit ports. Even for a 2.5" pipe, it may not neccessary. Definitely port matching is a good idea. Pete

I was thinking of enlarging the two output ports too, but then you will need to make a gasket. Also, what is the diameter of the two manifold output ports? Somewhere like an inch and a half or so? So if you calculate the cross sectional area given each tube is around 1.5" in diameter, you get a total area for the two tubes of: 11.1 square inches. For a 2.25" exhaust pipe, the area of the cross section is: 12.49 square inches. So it's cross sectional area is somewhere between a 2" and 2.25" pipe. Probably just port matching the pipe to the manifold and gasket will have more of an effect than enlarging the holes. Maybe not. If you are running a 2.5" exhaust, enlarging them may make a difference. Pete

Actually, the direction in which to inastall resistors does not matter (resistors are non-polarized). Polarized capacitors (ones that have a + or - on them), absolutely need to be installed correctly. There are only a few capacitors on the MS that are polarized. Another thing to keep in mind, especially when handling the processor, is avoid static electricity. The processor is made from a CMOS process that is static sensitive. If you zap it with static electricity, you can damage it. The pressure sensor may be sensitive too. Use one of the anti-static bags you get from DigiKey to keep your MS PCB in until you get it in the enclosure. Also, before you touch the board or processor, touch something grounded first (computer chassis, metal outlet box, etc). Pete

Awesome!! Ahhh, can't wait to get the motor in my car and get it fired up!! Pete

I can't seem to find an email from the company I bought the boxes from. Nothing fancy, just needs to be able to house a 4"x6" PCB, with about 2" of height. Fryes should have something. Bring the MS PCB with you.

When I built my MS, I did the following: Print out the BOM (bill of materials). D ownload the manual, and print it. S tarted at the top of the BOM, and work your way down. Each time you install a component, highlighted it as such. Did you buy a preprogrammed processor? If not, you will need to find someone to program it for you. Once the processor boot loader is programmed, you can download new firmware releases as they come out. Since mine is going in a track car, I plan on keeping it simple, and just using the "off the shelf" firmware. I don't care about IAC (idle air control), or cold weather driveability. Anyway, keep us informed about your progress. Pete

Rednax, A few questions: What distributor and ignition module are you using? Did you need to mdify the MS to work with it? What injectors are you using? I'm getting colse to getting my motor in, so any info on the installation would be appreciated. Thanks, Pete

Great to see some discussion about using the stock exhasut manifold. When I rebuild the engine in my 280Z, I'd like to ditch the header, but I don't want to loose any HP in the process. My plan is to build a mild 3.0L with around 9:1 CR. I want to improive low end torque, and make it a good street driver that get's decent gas mileage (it get's 28MPG now, and it has over 175k miles on it!). For the exhasut, I was thinking about using the stock 78' manifold, and have a custom 2.5" downpipe made. Then I was thinking about using a glass pack along the driveshaft, along with a quiet turbo or other muffler at the rear. The goal is to have a free flowing exhast, that is relatively quiet. Comments, suggestions?? Pete

I'm using the same regulator. It's a Malpassi rising rate type. It's a nice unit. I've been using mine for over threes years without problems. You got a good prive too, I paid twice that. It is adjustable. Take the small nut off the top, and you will see there is a set screw with a lock nut. Put a scredriver in the set screw, and loosten the locknut. Then you can adjust the pressure using the screwdriver. Remember to tighten up the lock nut after adjusting it. As fas a tuning, I've had no problems. I agree that I probably don't need a rising rate FPR, but it's works fine for me. Of course I am running a programmable ECU. Sleeperz, why do you think a RRFPR will run rich at idle? If you set the idle fuel pressure according to spec, it will idle like a stocker. The only time the RRFPR behaves differently than a non-RRFPR is under positive manifold pressure. Pete

I think the NA injectors are around 20lb/hr, and the turbo ones are around 26lb/hr. Pete

A freind just did the G-Nose conversion, and it took the body shop at least 10 hours to get it to fit. They had to fabricate brackets, and grind it to get it to mate up with the fenders and hood correctly. It was the MSA one, which is probably the same as Showcars. Poor fit. It looks awesome however. He had the fake bumper part painted satin black, and the rest of the car is a dark silver. It looks great. Figure at least another $500 in bodywork to get it to fit. Pete

Dan, How's the new motor running? Bill was telling me that you were passing everyone at last weekends COM event. I'm still waiting for my replacement driver's seat from Corbeau to arrive. I'm hoping to do one, maybe two COM events this year. Pete