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Everything posted by z-ya
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I was planning on dumping the return back into the sump on a custom fuel cell. I was concerned about possible pump caviatation caused by turbulents from the return. Now that I hear you guys are doing this without problems, I'm sticking with the plan. If I have problems with heat, I can always run the return to the top of the cell. I don't really like the idea of running fuel lines in the passenger compartment, especially on a track car, so I'm oping to avoid this. http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_2.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_1.jpg Pete
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Is the filter mounted on the passenger side? If so, I wouldn't be concerned about it. I'd be more concerned with the fuel rail getting too hot. I have the same problem after the car sits for a few minutes. 1/8 mile donw the road, it's running smooth again. Are you using a webbed intake manifold? Pete
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If you have the turbo long block,use that. The NA long block's comperssion ratio is borderline too high for a turbo application. Just swap the whole engine if you have it. I recommend poping the head off, and checking the condition of the cylinder bores. If there isn't a noticable ridge, get the head cleaned up, and bolt it on with a fresh gasket and timing set. Pete
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It's a lot easier to change it now, than later. The fact that the sproket is in position #2, tells me that when it was rebuilt, the timing chain set wasn't replaced. At a minimum, I would replace the guides, tensioner, and chain. Pete
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I too have a Megasquirt. I'm waiting for the track car I'm working on to get painted before I put the motor and FI in. I haven't heard about Megaspark. I know there has been talk on the list about MegaJolt. Do you have any more information? Pete
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I like your strut tower bar is it what I think it is? Pete
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You can't just add more injectors in parallel wit the existing ones. The resulting impedance will be too low, causing either the injectors, or ECU to overheat, and possibly get damaged. With an aftermarket ECU, you can ditch the air flow meter, and a lot of other stuff that is really not needed in a 240Z. I'm running an aftermarket ECU in may car. It gives me total control over triming and fuel. Best $1200 I ever spent. Pete
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If you plan on using the stock ECU, use the stock turbo injectors. Like I said, if you have a set, get them tested. That way you can rule out injector problems.
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I used a Hobbs switch to turn on the water injection at a certain boost level on my carb'd turbo L24 I used to have. The switch wasn't cheap, and it blew out when my car backfired once. IMO, you are going the wrong direction. Save your $, and get a programmable ECU. You are going to spend over $100 on switches, injectors, and other stuff to get this CF working. Plus you need to drive the injector in a peak and hold fashion. If you just connect +12v to the injectors, you will burn them out for sure. If you feel like tinkering, you can build a Megasquirt for less than $200, and be done with it: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html Just trying to save you aggrivation I have already experienced. Pete
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You should hear a click. Some may be louder than others. Some of the 300ZX injectors have the hose barb on the side, rather than the top. I deleive they flow the same as the 280ZX turbo ones. If you have a set of 280ZX turbo injectors, just send them out for testing and cleaning if you can afford it. I paid less than $100 to have this done to a complete set recently. They were junkyard injectors, and after cleaning, and flow testing, they worked just fine. How what stuff works? All L6 injectors are low impedance (Z). They should measure around 2.4Ohms with a good quality meter. Pete
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It was custom made by a guy a freind in the metal fab business. It cost him $500 to make this one, so you may be better off with a comercially available one. The capacity is around 12 gallons. Pete
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I'm putting a MegaSquirt on an 10:1 L28 for a track car I'm helping to build. I've got the Megasquirt up and running on the bench. Now I'm just waiting for the car to be ready for the engine. I'll keep the forum informed. Pete
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I bought a rebuilt turbo from them, and had good luck with it. I recently had a T3/T4 hybrid rebuilt at a shop in Mass if people are interested. They went through it and replaced the bearings and seals, and bead blasted it. It came back looking new. They also included all new gaskets. Fast turn around too. It cost me $150.00. They are: D & W Diesel & Electric 731 Main St North Oxford, MA 01537 (508) 987-1089
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You will also need to buy the components for the stim and relay boards. Probably another $50. Plus a case for the MS ($10). You should be able to do the whole thing for around $100. Pete
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I have one MegaSquirt built, and I'm getting ready to power it up, and test it. To build one, you need good soldering, and wiring skills. That's about it. You can buy the circuit board and pre-programmed processor here: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspo1.html Then, you will need to place and order for all the other components through DigiKey here: http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/bom.htm I would recommend geting the relay board and stimulator board also. The relay board mounts in the engine compartment and makes for an easier and cleaner installation. The stimulator board is basically a tester for the Megasquirt. With it, you can test all the functionality of the MS before you put it on an engine. Best thing to do is join the Yahoo group, and post questions to the list. The people on the list are great, and are very helpfull. The MS I'm building is going in a track/autocross car. I am building it with a couple other guys. It's going to have a 10.0:1 NA L28 in it. As far as the EIC, I would save your money and just replace your stock EFI with a stand alone system when you can afford it. Pete
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The backspacing on an early Z is not 10mm. The offset might be though. Best way to measure backspacing of an existing wheel is to lay it face down on the pavement, place a straight edge across the rim (not tire), and measure the distance between the mounting pad and straight edge. That is you backspacing. Now if you want to know what the maximum backspacing for a given suspension, do this: Mount a wheel with tire on the car with a know backspacing. The tire should be the same diameter, and also have the same side bulge as what you plan on running. Then lower the car to the ground, or better yet, put it on a drive on lift. Measure from the rim or tire (whichever is closest) to the nearest supension component (probably the srping perch). Add that measurement to the wheel backspacing. Subtract an 1/8" or so, and that is the maximum backspace you can run. Hope this helps. Pete
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These look nice : http://www.speed-technology.com/efi_throttle.html Don't know about price, but you can send them an email. They are sexy as hell: http://www.racetep.com/tish.html But in my opinion not worth the $ or trouble. Once you go to multiple TBs, now you have entered the "mechanical" variable back into the equation. The main reason why you ditched your carbs for FI in the first place: mechanical linkage that needs to be adjusted, balanced, tweaked and who knows what else to get it running smooth. One TB, one screw to adjust (idle speed). Your done! No offense, just my $0.02 Pete
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If you are using a 280Z tach, I don't think ou ned the tach adapter. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the MSD puts out a pulsed voltage signal. The tach adapter is only required of you are using an early 240Z tach, which is a current sensing type. I don't think you need the resistor either, but I don't think that is causing the tach behavior. Seems like a capacitor is charging up some where in the circuit. Do you still have a condensor in the circuit? Pete
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A few people from my local club are building a car for autocross and track events, it's a 72'. I came up with the basic design for a fuel cell, and another club member, who is in the metal fab business, made it. I think it came out awesome. I'm hoping it performs as good as it looks. There is a top plate (not shown), that will have a modified 280 2+2 filler neck attached to it with an overflow tube. Both the feed and return will connect to the bottom. If we have cavitation problems, we can move the return to the top of the tank. The idea was to integrate a surge tank into a fuel tank with baffling. There are two large baffles, and a surge tank in the middle. The surge tank is fed by 3/8" tubes along the bottom of the tank. The tubes point towards the fron and rear of the car. We built mini versions of this for our stock 240Z tanks when we did turbo conversions. I've done both autocrosses and track events with my turbo 240Z, without starvation problems during hard cornering. Pete http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_1.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_2.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_3.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_4.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_5.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Race_Car/4-2003/cell_6.jpg
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On my buddies car, he punched two holes just above the frame rail on the passenger side for the oil cooler lines, he then mounted the cooler inside the fender well, in fron of the duct in his air dam. came out nice, and is functional. Pete
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From what I remeber, you need the injector harness, and the harness that connects to the ECU (big connector). Then you need to find the resistor pack. These three things should plug together in some way. You definitely need the schematic for the engine wiring to connect the fuel pump and ECU relays up. Unless you can figure out a way to use the stock relay center. When I did my buddies car, we also re-used the fused link box. It just made things a little easier. Best resource you could have is a factory service manual for a 280ZXt. This will not only give you the schematics, but it will show you how to test all the sensors. If you have any specific questions regarding the wiring, let me know, and I'll look at my service manual to see if I can figure it out. I would suggest getting your own schematic for sure. Hope all this helps, Pete
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You can use the drain hole as a feed, and the stock 5/16 feed barb as a return. You will get some cavitation if you let the fuel level get below 1/4 tank. Mudge, are you putting a L28ET in your 240Z? If so, there are far less than 40 wires to hook up. I wired up a freinds car, and there were less than 10 wires. Yes, you have to hook up a couple relays, but it wasn't that bad. Are you trying to wire up more than you need to? All you really need is the main engine harness. Pete
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Not that I'm a huge fan of these guys, but they have what you are looking for (if you can find it on their web page). http://www.racetep.com Pete
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Yes it has a TPS. I bought one recently from a U-pull for $20 Pete
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