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I've built one MS, and have it up and running on the bench with the stimulator. So far, so good. It really is a neat system. This ones is going in a track car myself and some friends are building. It'll have a 10:1 NA L28 in it. It's at the body shop being painted, and when it returns it will be going to my house to put the engine and EFI in. I'll post results when I have them. I'm dying to get the motor in, and start tuning! Pete

I agree that if the hydralic lifters fail, it's a major pain. The P90a head is a good head if the lifter are working correctly. I've been running one for three years now without any problems. With the new T3/T4 turbo, it pulls strong all the way up to 6500 RPM. Less maintenance is fine with me. If the lifters start failing, I'll swap in a P90 or the P79 I have sitting on the shelf. If it ain't broke..., well you know. Saying that all P90a heads "suck", is a generalization that is not accurate, and doesn't really give proper credit to this head in good working condition. Just my $0.02 Pete

Just make sure to get all thouse metal shavings out of there. Let us know how your MS goes. I've got one bench tested and ready to go, but the race car project I'm putting it in has had some delays. Pete

I'm pretty sure the JWT sport 400 kit uses Mercedes 450SEL injectors. They are Bosch 36lb/hr low impedance injectors. I'm running them on my turbo setup. I had no problems with the hose size, but I'm running a custom fuel rail. The hose is 5/16" though, and I'm pretty sure that is correct. The connector is different. They should have sent you new connectors. To get the injectors on the stock rail, try a little WD-40. I use it all the time to remove old injectors from fuel rails, and I think I used it to get the Mecedes injectors on my custom rail. They will go on, it just may take a little persuading...... Pete

Can you install the seal so that the seal lip does not ride in the groove in the shaft? Kind of like installing a rear main crankshaft seal slightly outward to avoid the groove in the crank. Just a thought.... Pete

See this thread for mine: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19796

You need to pick the right head for the application. If you are going non-turbo, then for you to use the P90A head (which is the only hydralic head that I know of), you will need flat top pistions in your block (F54), or your CR will be too low (7.4:1). With the flat tops the CR will be around 8.5:1. Not great, but better. If you are going turbo, just bolt it on to a turbo block (F54, dished pistons). That's what I'm running. Pete

I don't like the N42 (non-webbed, non-EGR) manifolds. I had problems with heat soak on my turbo motor. May not be a problem with an NA setup. I've got two of them if you want one. One is already painted, and ported for a 240SX throttle body. I used it one season. This year I'm running a turbo manifold with the EGR and other un-needed ports welded up and smoothed. Yes you can use the N42 manifold (75'-76') with later electronics because the O2 sensor goes into the exhaust manifold, not the intake manifold. You may need to play around with the IAC valve, but should be doable. Pete

This is what I did for a sump: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/fuel-sump.pdf I drilled out the old return tube on the tank, and silver soldered in a 3/8" hose barb. I ran new 3/8" lines for send and return, but really all you need to do is run a new return. In fact, you can use the charcoal canister return line (the 5/16" line on the driver's side of the engine compartment). Back at the tank. You will need to run new hose from the old canister return line to the new return barb you just installed. I've never done it, but it seems like it would be possible. It will savev ou from running a new line (which is a pain in the butt). 5/16" line is plenty big enough for your stroker. I know of people getting over 230HP at the wheels wit the stock fuel line. Pete

I put a GM one wire 100 amp unit in my 240Z. I didn't really like it. The regulation was not as good as I expected. It was noisy too. I returned it, and now I'm running a 280ZX alternator. Pete

Last time this subject came up I posted this link: http://www.speed-technology.com/efi_main_page.html Anyone talk to these guys? Pete

If your motor is stock (no head work, etc.), then going with triples will not gain you anything, except a maintenance item. If you want the look and sound, then that's another thing. I've seen triples in a 280ZX, so it is easily done. The car was slow as a dog on the 1/4 mile (not sure why). It go beat bad by a stock 280Z. To me, if it doesn't improve performance, it's not going on my car. If it looks cool and improve performance, BONUS! Spend the $700 bucks on a programmable fuel computer. Yea it won't be a sexy as the triples, but you will have the tunability, and drivability of EFI. Your gas mileage won't suffer either. Pete

I'm in the process of upgrading my seats for track and autocross. I picked up some Corbeau GT7 seats, but they sit up way to high. Have people cut out the factory seat mounts, and just bolted the new seat rails throught the floor? I have real solid floors (Zedfindings Kit). Can I just bolt them through the floor, or should I weld some studs in? Please post comments and or suggestions. Thanks, Pete

Get a donor 280Z engine with an N42 head, and either swap the entire thing, or just swap the head and intake. You are going to need injectors, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator too (which can come from the donor car). Pete

I think there are still PCBs and programmed processor available through the group buy. It's a lot cheaper that way, and you don't have to get the programmer too. The partial kit comes with the MAP sensor and the FET driver too (at least another $20 if buyt them separte). The order page is here: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspo1.html I've got my MS up and running on the bench with the stimulator. Now as soon as the track car comes back from metal fab and paint, I'll be putting the 10:1 NA L28 in it. Can't wait to fire it up!! Pete

Yes, bad or dirty injectors can cause this. I would send yours out to be cleaned and tested. Otherwise you have no Idea what you are dealing with. You can get this done for less than $100 for all six. Pete

Both the N42 and N47 have the same size combustion chambers. The N42 has square ports, the N47 has round. I think the N42 is probably a better choice, but I picked up a rebuilt N47 cheap. Pete

I just finished building a NA L28 with an F54 block and N47 head (round port). CR should be around 10:1 with stock head gasket (flat tops). I hope to get it started in the next month or so. I'll be putting it on the dyno, so I'll post the numbers when I'm done. Pete

The BOV's vacuum line is connected to the intake about an inch or two from the TB. I'm using 3/16" fuel line, and the line is about a foot long. Pete

There isn't a diaphram in the TurboXS BOV. This is the one I have: http://www.turboxs.com/racing_bypass_valve.htm Pete

I have a Turbo XS BOV on my L28ET, and I'm having some problems with it fluttering. I recently upgraded by turbo to a T04b/T03. It worked great with the stock T03 turbo. Here is what it's doing: When I'm lightly eccelerating when there is less than 10in/hg vaccume (near 0psi), the boost gauge needle starts fluttering all over, and I can hear the BOV opening and closing rapidly. When I've got it to the floor, to boost climbs to where I expect it (12psi), but if I hold it there, the BOV starts fluittering again. I've tried increasing the spring tension by adding shims (washers). I added I thing 5 washers. With the stock turbo I didn't need any shims. By adding the washers it seemed to help a little, but it's still doing it. Do you think I need to just keep adding washers, or am I going in the wrong direction? Any help appreciated. Pete

Why won't you be using the return line? If you are using a regulator, you really should use the return line. The return will keep the fuel at the injector cooler. When idling in traffic, most of the fuel will return back to the tank. A return line will also extend the life of your fuel pump. Pete

In the tank there might be a strainer, but not a filter. My 240Z tank had neither, just an open ended tube. First thing I would do is make sure the pump is running. You may have to have someone crank it while you listen near the pump, although I think it runs for a second or two when you first turn the ignition on. If the pump doesn't run, check you electrical connections first. Make sure you have power at the pump. If the pump appears to run, then I would dissconnect the line that goes from the tank to the pump (inlet hose to pump), and try to bow compressed air into the tank. This may disslodge anythin that might be clogging the inlet from the inside of the tank. Hope this helps. Pete

Unless you are going for the sexy look of multiple throttle bodies, you are wasting time and money. Just put the 240SX TB on there (and port the manifold for it) and be done with it. You can retain the stock linkage. If you start hacking up some L24 manilfolds for EFI, you will still need to figure out a fuel rail, something to hold the fuel rail, and linkage for the TBs. Plus now you have to figure out how to calibrate the TBs so that you have even air flow between the two of them. Seems like a complicated task, for no performance gain. A single 60mm TB will flow enough air for more HP than any NA L6 can generate. You are better off taking the money you would spend doing this, and send your head out to Sunbelt, Rebello, or someone else that knows how to get the most air through an L6 head. Now that will improve your performance!! Just my $0.02 Pete

Can you hear the pump running? Is there a filter before the pump? Where are you checking fuel flow, at the fuel rail, or at the pump? Try pulling the inlet hose off the pump, and see if you can siphon any gas from it. From what you are saying, it sounds like the pump might be gummed up.