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GAZRNR, Do you hav ethe Willwood part numbers for the rotors and calipers? http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com quoted me $102 for the 4 piston DL calipers, and the curved vane rotors for $57 each. They can make up custom SS brake lines for $30 each. Pete

I have the two wire 280ZX module and was wondering if anyone knew which connector went where. The pins on the modules are configured as a "T". Doe the top of the "T" spade connector connect to the "+" side of the coil, or vice versa? Thanks, Pete

Here are some pictures of our club race car project that will be Megasquirted. Got the MS assembled and tested, now come the installation. I put the motor in last night. It's a 10:1 CR L28, stock injectors and FPR.

Use the L24 distributor, distributor shaft, and any L6 oil pump and you will be OK. Like Doug71zt said, the pre-83' turbo distributor shafts are interchangable. Pete

Our club race car project is back from the body shop, I'll post some pictures soon. It's a 20 footer for sure (that is, the paint job). Anyway, I've had my MS built and ready to go in for a while. It'll be controlling a 10:1 NA L28 with stock ignition. At some point I'd like to control the timing from the MS. I assume you need to weld up the vacume advance in the distributor. I'll get it running good on the release code, and then possibly switch to the one with spark control. Pete

You may have damaged the tach running it without a resistor. Where are you connecting it, to the "-" terminal of the coil? Pete

Sorry to ask the stupid question, but what is a 2JZ?

Can you O-ring the head instead? I'm having a P90 done up, and I wondering if I should have it grooved for o-rings while I'm at it. I don't plan on decking the block. Thanks, Pete

I'm using a stock 280Z tach with my Wolf ECU doing a direct fire multi coil configuration. If I believe the Wolf, it is about 100 RPM lower than what the 280 tach reads. I can live with that amount of innacuracy. There is a single wire fromt the Wolf to the tach. BTW, the nice thing about using a 280 tach is that it is a direct bolt in into a 240Z if you swap the guts into your 240Z housing. The aftermarket gauges look cool, but require a fair amount of custom work to make them fit securely. I have an autometer oil temp gauge in place of my clock, and it looks great, but took me at least 4 hours to get it in there, and it still could be held in there a little more securely. All of my other gauges are stock, and pretty darn accurate as compared to what the ECU is telling me. Pete

How do you have it plumbed? Do you have a FPR? If your engine specs are as described in your signature, I would ditch the mechanical pump. Install a good quality low pressure pump that will flow enough fuel to meet your horsepower goals. Pete

Yes, you are correct. The vacume line on the BOV should be connected downstream of the throttle plate (in the intake). The vacume line on the FPR should also connect downstream of the throttle plate (like the BOV vacume line). Pete

Is there are possibility of having a separate forum for electrical related discussions? Seems like it would be usefull. Pleople seem to be posting electrical questions all over. The last one I noticed was a turn signal question in the Datsun L6 forum. Pete

I get the same occasional hickup during light throttle cruising too, and I'm also not running a damper. Hmmmm.... Pete

I'd say people want to just replace their fuel rail with one that supports O-ring injectors. How about an aluminum fuel rail machined for O-ring injectors, with mounting stantions, all ready to bolt on to a stock L6 manifold? It would be nice to have provistions for 6-AN fittings as well. Pete

I believe you can buy the expandable rubber plugs in a bunch of different sizes. On all the engines I've rebuilt, I always use a small amount of sealant on the freeze plugs. Just a very thin film. I never had problems with leaking or coolan passages getting clogged. Yes, if you blob a lot of it on there, when you tap the plug in, you are bound to have some that could come loose in the water jacket. Pete

I found the heat problem with my car. When I moved the cooling fan from the driver's side to the passenger side of the radiator, I started having these heat problems in traffic on a hot day. I moved it beacuse when the fan turned on, it was interfering with my magnetic crank trigger, causing the motor to stumble. I've got a 280ZX injector cooling fan on there now, but it is ugly as hell. I may move the fan back over to the driver's side, and get some uMetal to magnetically shield it. Pete

Are you going to use the aftermarket L6 4 barrel carb manifold? Sounds like a good place to start. Pete

Just because you have pressure, doesn't mean you have flow. With the pump pumping into a gas can, do you get lots of gas flow? Check the flow right after the filter. Is there a filter before the pump (should be one to protect the pump)? Check that too. If that's OK, pull the injector plugs one at a time to find the suspect injector (aounds like you mignt have already done this). With the engine off, check the connections. Use an Ohm meter to verify that the injecor is good. It should read more than 2 Ohms across the terminals. Check the injector connector with an Ohm meter with it connected to the injector. It should again read more than 2 Ohms, but less than 15 Ohms (depending on your injectors). Hope this helps. Pete

Because you are looking into a blow through setup, make sure your carburetors can handle positive pressure. All sorts of weird things can happen when you start pressurizing the carburetor. Think about this, with a fuel pressure of lets say 9psi, and a manifold pressure of 10psi, what will happen? Will the manifold pressure prevent more fuel from entering the float bowl? Will it prevent the float valve from opening all together? I don't know for sure, but these are the kind of things to think about when planning your project. If you were to lean out at 10psi, the result would not be pretty. If you are using the triples for sure, I would forget about boost, and build a 3.1 with a lot of head work. There are people on HybridZ making over 250HP at the wheels with a similar set up right now. Pete

There are many different stand alone systems available. Search the web, and do the research. What about using the OEM computer? I'm using a Wolf 3D computer on my turbo L28, and I had great luck with it. The SDS is also a very popular system. And don't forget electromotive. The lsit goes on and on..... Pete

Get a couple feet of high pressure EFI fuel line. Put a gauge right before the regulator on the high pressure side. Position the gauge so you can see it from the drivers seat. The idle pressure should be around 38psi, and should increase as you accelerate. If it does, it's not the regulator. What duty cycle are you running the injectors? If you are at 100%, no matter how much you turn up the SDS, it will still run lean. Pete

Tim, Are you you posting these questions to the yahoo megasquirt group?? Literally hundreds of people have probably had the same troubles you are having. I'm not saying that the people here on Hybrid Z are not knowlegeble, but the experts on the MS group can answer your questions much quicker. I've posted questions and got them answered in a matter of minutes. It's a great resource. If you are just posting your questions here, you may be wasting time.

All of the FPRs have manifold reference capability. The turbo and NA FPRs look identical. I have an NA one int here now, and the pressure is around 38psi (1000RPM). I'm just wondering if the turbo FPR is a rising rate, or is it the same as the NA. Pete

The bent tube on teh bottom of the FPG is the return. The straight turbe entering the FPG from the side is the inlet (from the pump). The top tube (small one) is for manifold vaccume.

Is the 280ZX Turbo FPR the same as the 280ZX NA FPR? Pete