z-ya

I still think you are better off with the FI, but I like a car that runs well, and one I don't have to screw with. I've had SB Chevys with Holley carbs, and it was always something. Mostly cold starting problems. If you pumped it just right, it would start. If you pumped it too much, it would flood. Anyway, the stock FI system is more than adequate for most modifications (header, exhaust, intake). If you are swapping just to pretty up your engine bay, I dont' think it' s worth it. If you don't think a stock FI system can look nice, take a look at these: http://www.zccne.addr.com/Convention_2001/show/DSC00020.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Convention_2001/show/DSC00060.jpg http://www.zccne.addr.com/Convention_2001/show/Image120.jpg Pete

I'm running a WolfEMS v3.0 ( http://www.wolfems.com.au ) computer which controls both fuel and igniton (notice no distributor). The complete setup, including fuel pump, rail, injectors, and pressure regulator cost me around 2K. The main adavantage is programmability. You have precise control over fuel and timing. The kind of control you can't get out of a stock ECU and a mechanical distributor. Most of these types of programmable ECUs have other features like cooling fan control, data logging, and real time displays for debug. It's well worth the investment if you are planning a lot of engine mods, or plan on running a lot of boost. Pete

Get yourself a book on Bosch L-Jet fuel injection so you have an understanding of how the system works before you start removing stuff. Off the top of my head, here are a few things you can get rid of: EGR valve charcoal canister I'm sure they may be more items that are not needed. Remeber though, a lot of that stuff is there for cold starting, and drivability. You start removing that, and you'll have a poor running engine. Also, when you see modified FI L6s with not a lot of hoses and or wiring, they are probably running an aftermarket fuel computer. That's what I'm running: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/01-28-2002/DSC00013.jpg Pete

Are you running a turbo and an intercooler? If so, you may want to go with a narrower unit. The filler neck may get in the way of the radiator support hole you would use for IC plumbing. I bought a summit 25x19" aluminum radiator, and it fit between the frame rails (just barely). The problem with these aluminum radiator is the tanks are on the end instead of the top and bottom like Z radiators. I returned the Summit one and put in a 280ZX 3 row instead. Cheaper, and it fit pefect. Yea it hangs down a bit from the bottom of the radiator support, but who cares? With the tanks on the end, the inlet lingned up with the TB, not a good thing for the IC plumbing. I would have had to change it. If you are going NA, those aliuminum radiators will work fine if you run custom hoses. Pete

Yes, the 77' flywheel will bolt on no problem. All L28s have the same flywheel bolt pattern and flange. Before installing the flywheel, remove the small disc that is pressed on the end of the crankshaft for the automatic flexplate. A freind of mine didn't remove this, and spent a couple months trying to figure out why his cluthc was slipping. Also, buy a complete clutch kit and replace everything (pilot bushing, throwout bearing, pressure plate, and disc). Pete

I had a problem with the first set I bought. One ore more were slowly failing. I returned them under warranty for a new set. I didn't have problems with those for over a year. I then upgradded to bigger injectors because I am running more boost. I reccomend getting some used OEM injectors, and having them cleaned and reconditioned. I just had a set done for $90. BTW, Sherco is selling aftermarket (not OEM) 280ZX injectors made by RAM for cheap money. From what I've heard, the RAM injectors are so-so, but for the money, it might be worth the gamble. http://www.sherco-auto.com/ Pete

I have a Home Depot special. 5HP, 25 gal, just barely keeps up with sandblasting. When I get around to running a 220v outlet to it, it will cycle less. For air tools it keeps up jut fine. I think it's a twin cylinder. I paid around $350 for it new. Avoid the "oil less" compressors. You are better off with the kind you have to add oil to believe it or not. Those are the ones that last the longest. Pete

If you have some electronic skills you can build a Megasquirt: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html I'm building one for a autocross/track car I'm building. Pete

Yes, I was running the shield with both the turbo and N42 non-webbed manifolds. My injectors may be a little more sensitive to heat or something. I'm running Bosch 380cc/min low Z type. I've already got the turbo manifold back in there, now I just need to the snow to melt in front of my garage Pete

Here is the link again: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/new-manifold.jpg

I'd have to dissagree about the webbing not having an effect on heat. It made a big difference on my car. Without the webbing, the plastic wire loom I'm using for the injector wiring melted . With the webbed manifold, the wire loom didn't melt. So the injectors are seeing a lot more heat without the webbing. I have no problems when driving, just when idling in traffic for long periods of time on hot days. With the webbing, no problems, without it, problems. I'm not sure if this matters, but the turbo intake appears to have a large plenum than the NA manifolds. I had the extra holes in my turbo manifold welded up, and smoothed. I have a non EGR N42 manifold sand blasted, painted, and ported for a 240SX TB if someone wants it. I used it one season. Here is a pciture Pete

It's not that simple. You can't just swap the distrbutors, you will also need the module from the 280Z, and I would also use the coil from the 280Z. Just swap the whole assembly and associated wiring. If you can find a NA 280ZX distributor, the module is mounted on the distributor, and it's a simple two wire hookup. But you should use the 280ZX coil, or an aftermarket coil that can be used without a ballast resistor. If you use the 240Z coil, it will overheat and fail without the ballast (current limiting) resistor. Hope this helps, Pete

From what I know, no piston milling is needed, and if you use the stock head gasket thickness, your CR will be around 9.8:1. It's a common upgrade to put an N42 or N47 head on a F54 ZX block with flat tops. Pete

Putting a P90 head (turbo) on and L24 yeilds a CR of about 7.6:1. Perfect for a turbo application. It's not a direct bolt on though, the cylinders need to be ground to clear the larger valves in the P90 head. See Tony's site for more details: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/ Pete

Hey Dan, Sorry to hear about your misfortune . You are probably right, given the HP you are getting, and the number of track events you do, the motor held up pretty good. What exactly failed? Main/rod bearings? Is the crank OK? WIll it need boring? Did you loose oil pressure on your way home? I put an oil temp gauge in my turbo 240Z this winter. The turbo oil pan already has a sensor bung welded in, so I just drilled out the factory sensor, and tapped it for 1/8 NPT thread. I bought an Autometer 2 5/8" gauge, and mounted it in the clock location using a 280Z clock housing. If you want the particulars, let me know. Aside from the orange needle, it looks alomost stock. Keep us informed about the rebuild. Pete

A voltage triggered tach will have 4 connections, 12v, ground, ilumination, and signal. The signal one goes to the SDS. Pete

I assume you have a 240Z? If so, I would suggest getting a 75-78 tach, and swaping the guts from it into your 240Z housing. It's and easy swap, and allows you to use the stock 240Z mounting bolts. All early (70-72) 240Z have a current sensing tach (measure the number of current pulses). Some late 240Zs, and 260Zs have the voltage triggered tachs (the kind you want), but they are a little harder to find. Pete

I don't have any pics, but this is what I had my metal fabrication buddy make for me: He cut out a small square (4" x 4") from the bottom of the tank, right where the pickup tube is. This original drain plug comes with it. He then fabricated a small sump of the same size, with about a 4" box welded to it. The box has two tubes that come off the box near the bottom and run from front to back of the car. He then inserted the whole assembly back into the tank (with the pickup tube in the center of the box), and TIG welded it in. He also put a drain plug in the sump too. So I use the stock pickup, and a soldered in brass 3/8" barb for the return. Works great. I autocross and do track events, and have not had any starvation problems. I could draw a picture if people are interested. Pete

Sorry, can't help you there. Pete

I'm running Bosch lowZ 380cc/min injectors in batch mode. I'm using a Wold 3D v3.0 computer in my car. Made in Austrailia like the Haltech. The only issue I've had is with the idle after going with larger injectors. With the stock ZXT injectors it idled real smooth. It's kind of got a little lump in there now (not too bad, but noticable). Off idle it roars. These L28ETs sip the fuel at idle. The Wolf has a global fuel scale adjustment, so you can set the injector opening time range. So you guestimate the opening time at WOT/full boost, and set the fuel scale about 10% more for a little head room. This gives you the maximum tuning resolution. Pete

I was assuming that series current limiting resistors would be used with the low Z injectors. Well, you know what happens when you assume. I agree, a sided by side comparison without limiting resistors, would in fact show that the low Z injector has a fastewr response (opening) time. The 1ms I was using in my example was just that, and example. My car idles with a 1.2ms opening time. Pete

I used the Kinsler extrusion. Worked out nice. They cut it to size, and machined the ends for their high flow 6-AN fittings. I drilled and tapped for the injector barbs myself. Pete

SleeperZ wrote: The stock ZXT injectors are 2.4 Ohm as meausred on a precision 4.5 digit DVM. I don't agree with you regarding activation time and idle quality. If the ECU's output drivers are setup correctly, high Z injectors will respond just as fast as low Z injectors. As far as idle quality, the impedance of the injector has nothing to do with it. My truck has high Z injectors, and it idles super smooth. What does determine the idle quality is the flow rate vs the fueling resolution of the ECU. If the resolution is not fine enough to deliver the proper fuel, it will idle poorly regardless of injector impedance. An example: if the engine required a 1.5ms open time to idle smoothly, but the fuel computer's resolution was to the nearest ms, then it would either idle rich, or lean. You wouldnot be able to find the optimal setting. I know this because I have low Z injectors in my turbo Z, and the idle is border line because the fuel computer I'm using does not have fine enough resolution. Pete

I've used Overnite a few times with good success. http://www.overnite.com Pete

I had a similar problem also. I fixed it by feeding the single SU with two SU float bowls. Kind of Mickey Mouse, but it worked. Pete