z-ya

Looks good. My only concern would be if the EDIS module dwell time was compatible with those coils. I guess only time will tell. If you are not missing at high RPM/boost levels, then the dwell is probably long enough, but you don't know of it is too long. This could shorten the life of the coils and or cause them to overheat. To verify the dwell is correct you really need to measure the dwell time on a running engine that those coils came from, and compare it to the dwell of the EDIS module. The best way to do this is with a scope and current probe attached to the coil "-" terminal. Pete

Did you check the PIP and SAW connections to and from the MS? Check at the DB37 connector in the harness, you might have an intermittent connection there. Pete

It is the stock thickness as it is the OEM gasket. It's approximately 1.25mm thick. Felpro is 1mm thick. Pete

The only injectors that are compatible with an NA ECU are 180cc/min ones that came stock. Anything larger and you will have to do things to fool the ECU. In general, using an NA computer in a boosted application is not a good idea, and will yield poor results. 290cc/min is plenty for a stock L6 turbo (came with 280cc/min stock).

Yea, it does feel a lot better. Engine pulls much harder. Still have that dip in the power band though. AFR is consistent at 12.5 - 13.5 across entire map. Could lean it out in a few areas to flatten the torque curve a bit but I would rather have it run a little rich and not have to worry about detonation on the track. Got a track event in a couple weeks. The ZX manifold I had on there before was one of those tapered manifolds. It port matched to the head. The new setup is also port matched. Running 48mm Weber velocity stacks and mesh filter screens. No air filter. There is no restriction on the intake. I think this is what pushed the peak power RPM up 500RPM. Pete

OEM Gaskets are not "paper". They have a metal outer layer with some sort of fiber material between the metal layers.

Got the car back on the dyno. I'm impressed with the midrange torque increase of 20ft-lbs. Peak power RPM shifted up 500RPM, which gained 11HP. Car pulls much better, and sounds amazing at 6000RPM. Th dotted line is last years pull with the 280ZX NA manifold and 60mm throttle body. You can read the writeup Giles at Holy Roller did. http://holyrollerdyno.com/Holyroller_Dyno/Tuning_Sessions/Entries/2009/4/11_ZCCNE_Club_Car.html Pete

If you get them reground, keeping specific rockers tied to particular valves is not important. If your rockers are smooth, and worn evenly, you can probably reuse them as is. If there are any grooves or uneven wear, get the resurfaced. It's cheap insurance given what you already have into the springs, cam, retainers, etc. Pete

Aside from a metal one, Nissan OEM gaskets are the best. They will blow, unlike a metal one, if something goes wrong. Ishino is the OEM for Nissan. I found one on thepartsbin.com for $24.95. This is a great deal as the dealers get around $75 for them. http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=9285&uts=true&Ntt=W0133-1632596&x=14&y=13 Pete

I would check the wipe pattern and adjust with different lash pads if required. And I would use new or reground rockers. Yea, Isky should have told you this, but maybe they ASSumed that you knew what to do. You know what happens when you AssUMe.... Really, they should just include a piece of paper with the cam with these instructions. It's amazing how many companies can't event do THIS for their customers. I think Isky does great work, but come on.... Pete

Clive, Do you mean paint prison? Which color red did you decide on? Pete

Not all 15" wheels will clear those brakes. I tried a set of Sportmax 15x8 +0 wheels and they didn't clear the calipers. On my P1 Racing wheels, they clear, but they have tons of room for brakes. My only advice is to check wheel fitment before mounting tires in case you need to return them. Here are my 15x8 +10 "P1 Racing" wheels. http://www.zccne.org/simple_gallery/albums/Members/pete/DSC00007.jpg

The Honda "Dyno Blue Pearl" is a nice color that really comes alive in the sun.

Nice work. Late this year I'll be doing the same thing to my 71'.

You can try the stock lash pads, and if the wipe patter is good, your all set. It really depends on the cam you select. If you lash pads are in good shape (no grooves), then you can probably use them after a little clean up with some emery cloth. How long do you want the cam to last? It won't last long with the wrong lash pads and badly worn rocker arms.

The cap should go from the coil power to ground. It should have a minimum voltage rating of 20V or greater. The + on teh cap must go towards the +12v coil power. I would have a separate circuit for the module and coil pack. A 10A fuse should be sufficient. Your connector probably doesn't have a 4th pin in it, so you are better off just getting the correct connector with 4 pins and pigtails.

Um, excuse me? Is that a SCCA GT2 300ZX with a VQ35? Very cool.

When changing from a stock cam you need to adjust the wipe pattern by using the correct thickness lash pad. If the wipe pattern is way off, you will destroy your new cam. Search, there has been tons of discussion on this subject. You can get the rockers reground, it is a lot cheaper than new ones.

So far it is holding up fine to 300+ WHP/WT. It isn't the quietest LSD. Extra gear noise when cornering, a little gear whine when cruising. And of course with a RT or other poly mount its even louder. The Nissan CLSD is quiet by comparison. But the OBX works well, and hasn't broken yet. If you can find a used Nissan CLSD for a couple hundred more, I would go that route. But for the $300 plus $100 for setup, it's a good deal. Pete

I think you have a good idea there. You'll have a bunch of freshly blasted bolts when you are done to use for re-assembly or to send off to the plater.

I like this one. or this one White is boring Dave...

Get an internally oiled version for your N42 and you should be all set. Get the correct lash pads and new or re-ground rockers too.

You need to get the correct 4 pin connector pigtail for the coil pack. If you will the connector, you will see that there a 4 pins in the coil pack. Pin 4 I don't use. You can use pin 7 for shields for the PIP and SAW. Or you can shield them using GND in the MS. I've never used the diode (just connect pin 9 to ground), but you should use a the 25uF capacitor to suppress any noise the coil may induce into the +12V supply.

At .05" intake and exhaust duration is 236. Lobe separation angle is 110deg. It's a 2.8L.

I run a 460/.460 lift and 280°/280° duration Comp Cams camshaft and it is very streetable. Decent idle, and good mid range power. Power starts falling off around 6300 RPM.