z-ya

We are talking about air, and whether it is from triple Webers or ITBs, doesn't really matter. Yes, with EFI you can tune across all load and RPM points. With carbs, you have limited adjustment, so adjust AFR for peak power at the RPM range that makes the most power for YOUR engine. It is not rocket science or magic. It is just a matter of finding the sweet spot and adjusting AFR and timing for max power while minimizing detonation. Again, we are talking PEAK power, not average across all RPM and load points. So a set of Webers will absolutely produce the same PEAK power as ITBs given the correct tune for that motor.

Jon, I don't think that the carbs will limit peak power (and that's what we are talking about here). Basically that is all you can tune with carbs. EFI will get you a consistent AFR across all RPM and loads (if tuned correctly). You can't do that with a carb, but you can tune for peak power. I can't imagine that a single TB EFI intake can flow more air than a set of Mikunis or Webers. Pete

How about more details about your pneumatic pump? I'm real tired of pumping that sh*t in my hand....

How' bout "Clive EvilZ Bogle"? Like when those bikers came by the convention hotel last year saying "Where is that EvilZ, that thing is awesome!" We've got our names on the club car in vinyl: screen names GnoseZ, Roostmonkey, Z-Ya. I like it in a race car for sure. Maybe not on a street car. Pete

I got mine from nismoparts.com a few months ago for $160. The Z31 RB20 pickup is also NLA. I modified my front sump pickup to work with the rear sump pan. You can't just cut the pan and rotate it 180deg as the angle of the pan bottom will be the opposite from the way the engine is tilted. Pete

Those are great numbers from an RB20DET! Nice work! Pete

Just buy a 3/8NPT bung, and have it welded in low down on your pan so that the sensor is submersed in oil. Pete

If you have a L28ET, there is already a bung in the pan. You just need to make a metric to NPT adapter. I took the stock L28ET oil temp sensor and drilled it out. I then tapped it to 1/4" NPT so that I could screw my Autometer sender right into it. I have the oil temp gauge mounted where the clock used to be. Pete

Thanks. I like your idea about not having to drill the cover. My only suggestion would be to hog out all that extra aluminum that isn't really doing anything. I think this would give it a cleaner look. If you are CNCing it anyway, might as well do it then. I was going to make it more fancy by using threaded standoffs and weld them to the cover, but then I started screwing with some tubing and long screws. I did it with hardware I had laying around. Now I wish I had done it to my turbo cover (which I may do). Pete

I think it's like the Harley Davidson "Look at me" mentality. Yea, everyone looks at "you" and says "what an idot". How Harley dealers get away with swapping stock pipes for open pipes on new bikes before they leave the showroom is beyond me. "Awesome bike dude", "What?, I can't hear you".

I don't have any other photos at this point, and the car is getting some needed bodywork after my Mid-Ohio incident last year, so no more photos for now. This is how I did it. My only suggestion is measure 10 times, and drill once . Experiment on a junk cover first (that is was I did, but it came out nice so I painted it). - Coils are centered on the plug holes in the head. - Holes are 2.25" from the valve cover gasket surface - Spacers are 3/8 aluminum tubing cut to 1" lengths - Bolts are 1/4-20 stainless binder head - A small amount of silicone one each bolt - Loctite I used an 8 pin sealed connector (left over from an RB harness), so all you need to do is unbolt the cover, disconnect the 8 pin plug and plug wires and you can lift the valve cover off. I'm using a Wolf 3D V3 ECU to drive them. Each 5V ignition output drives two LS1 coils in a wasted spark configuration. A Megasquirt can also drive LS1 coils in this arrangement. Pete

Nice work mounting those coils. After doing some measurements on the Yukon coil Paul sent me, and the LS1 coils I used, this is my conclusion. The Yukon coils have a slightly hotter spark than the LS1 coil. So you can probably run a larger gap than the LS1 given equal boost pressure. The Yukon coil has a short charge (dwell) and discharge time. This is good for higher RPM applications in a wasted spark configuration (or if you use just one coil and a distributor). It actually draws slightly less current than the LS1 coil, so it is a more efficient design. It is more compact and has a cool heat sink. Here is how I mounted my LS1 coils: Pete

As insinuated in my first reply, I agree with Jon. I've used Dynapacks (preferred) and Dynojets. Here are some of the NA L6 engines I have measured on a Dynapack (all have headers, intake and exhaust upgrades): Rebello 3.2L, triple Mikunis - 260HP Rebello 3.1L, bored SUs - 231HP 10:1 L28, medium cam, Megasquirt, no head work - 180HP Bone stock 280Z (stock manifolds, Monza exhaust) - 125HP L24 with header (stock cam, SUs, intake, air filter) - 118HP What modification do you think allow your L24 develop as much power as a Rebello 3.1L? Or for that matter as much as a Bob Sharp C production L28 engine? Thanks, Pete

I think that the fart sound from each cylinder needs to be analyzed in the frequency domain using a spectrum analyzer for consistency across all cylinders. Really, the thought of your thumb being sucked through the plug hole and into the cylinder is not a good one.... Ouch!!

That exhaust was custom made by the folks at Bob Sharp racing back in the 70s. The original gas tank was replaced with a fuel cell. Pete

That topic has been discussed at great length here and on other sites. Do some searchin'. Search first, ask second. Pete

You can do this using the FSM. I just did an R34 RB25 using only the FSM as a reference. Yes, you have to have some circuit sense. You also have to think about it for a while and draw a schematic. I created a schematic for the RB25DE R34 motor swap I am working on. It a completely separate circuit for the motor, leaving the 240Z harness in tact. PM me with your email address and I will send it to you if you want it. I appears that we can no longer have attachments to our posts..... I'll draw a similar schematic when I modify the RB harness for Roostmonkey's RB26DETT R32 swap I'm working on. Pete

The fact that they are within a few psi of each other is a good thing. What the engine hot when you tested the compression?

This is how I did it: - Coils are centered on the plug holes in the head. - Holes are 2.25" from the valve cover gasket surface - Spacers are 3/8 aluminum tubing cut to 1" lengths - Bolts are 1/4-20 stainless binder head - A small amount of silicone one each bolt head. - Loctite I used an 8 pin sealed connector (left over from an RB harness), so all you need to do is unbolt the cover, disconnect the 8 pin plug and plug wires and you can lift the valve cover off. Pete

IF you really want loud, try a dual megaphone setup: This car is loud, painfully loud. I've been behind this car on the race track and thought I had something seriously wrong with my car. I could feel the vibrations from that exhaust through the chassis of my car. It is basically a 6-3-2 header, with dual pipes running back to flared tips. No mufflers. Not recommended for the street. Pete

Wow, those are impressive numbers for an L24! Rebello 3.1L strokers make around that at the wheels. Come to think of it, that is what the Bob Sharp CP 240Z (L28, E31, 13:1 CR, etc. etc.) made when we had it on a dyno a few years ago. It was raced by Paul Newman as a 280Z (has a 280Z rear tail light panel).

I have completed the mods to the RB25DE NEO harness (R34). I just need to update the schematic and I will post it. The way I changed the harness was to make it completely stand alone. All new relays and fuses for the engine. In effect you could run the engine on a test stand with my harness only having to connect power, ground, and an ignition switch signal. I am leaving the stock 240Z engine bay harness because the lights and horns wires run through it. What I will pull back from the stock harness is the coil power, oil pressure, and coolant temp wires as those are in the RB harness. I will connect them to the RB harness under the dash. Pete

Here is the latest photo of my turbo car motor. I added LS1 coils to it this winter:

You can get them from Black Dragon auto, or Northern Auto Parts: http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?InventoryId=90529

Maybe... It really depends on the design of the coil. Just because it draws more current, doesn't mean that the coil part of module holds more of a charge. Some of that current is used by the coil driver circuits. The newer Yukon coil design may use more efficient electronics making it appear to charge less. The fact may be that the Yukon coil is just a more efficient design. Also the design of the coil itself can effect it's efficiency (materials, windings, etc.). Pete