z-ya

I'm not sure if anyone as actually done that swap. Go for it, and let us know how you make out. Chances are, the stock booster and MC will work fine. You may need to play around with front to rear bias with an adjustable proportioning valve, or different front/rear pad compounds.

This is where I put them. Have had it going over 120MPH without any problems: See my sig photo for what it looks like with hood on.

I don't like heating anything that has rubber and glue in it. You are better off honing it to properly fit your crankshaft. This way no heat is involved in installation or removal. I also had to slightly file the Woodruff key slots, so the Woodruff keys would fit properly into the slot in the damper.

I had to have mine honed to fit snug on the crankshaft. My machinist charged me $25 to do it. Fits like a glove now. The quality looks good.

As always Paul, 100% dead on... I run 15psi on a stock head gasket. All out 15:1 CR race L28 GT2 motors run stock Nissan head gaskets! The problem is detonation. If you just swap in a metal one, you will break something else (pistons, rods, crank) when you turn the boost back up. Verify your timing tab is accurate (#1 piston at TDC, then index the pointer on the damper), then verify your timing is correct with a timing light. Next tune it for 12:1 AFR under boost, 14-15 AFR under atmospheric pressure. If the motor has flat tops, the CR is probably around 8.5:1. At 15psi I would start at an advance of 20 degrees or less.

If you are asking these kinds of questions, you need to do a lot more research before buying anything. Search, read, search, read, repeat, repeat. That is the only way to build up the knowledge you will need to make the right decisions about your build up. These questions have been asked thousands of times....

If the machine work and assembly was done correctly, it's a steal. The pistons alone are worth over $500.

I have the same damper on my NA 10:1 L28. I run a ZX alternator on it, so I swapped the pulley from a 240Z alternator so that the thinner belt sat in the alternator pulley correctly. I also had to hone the damper so that it would fit the crankshaft without too much force. I also had to file the woodruff key slot to make it fit. I mounted a 36-1 trigger wheel on mine for EDIS, so I had the whole thing re-balanced at a balancing shop. The stock washer and bolt work fine, don't waste your money on the "special" one.

I think the Raydots look like backwards police lights. I think the bullet mirrors look cooler. Very cool site

The only way you will get close to the mileage of your stock NA L28, is with your right foot. Keeping manifold pressure below atmospheric will get you close. As soon as you start running boost your AFRs will be in the 12:1 area (if tuned properly).

You can reuse your old bolts, just clean them up really well, and oil the threads before assembly. You can get new ones from Courtesy Nissan, or after market ARP studs from places like Summit racing.

I know they are not super light, but the Maxima flywheel will save you about 4lbs over a stock L28 flywheel. They weight between 17 and 18lbs, as compared to 24lbs for the L28 flywheel. I believe they have a Y70 designation on the back. I have one in one my street cars, and the race car. A noticable improvement for cheap money.

I had an FX100 in my 180WHP road racer for three years now, and it still works great.

Learn something every day! I guess I've never had my hands on a 75'. Thanks for the photos!

I have never seen this. As far as I know, all Z differentials from 70-83 have the same input flange bolt circle. Yes, the ones on the R200 are round instead of rectangular in shape, but the bolt circles are the same (just put one in a few weeks ago). The Z31s have a different bolt circle, so when you swap in a Z31 CLSD, you need to swap the input flange from a 75-83 R200.

Nice work!

They will have a backspace of around 6.25", which will hit your coil overs. With 1.25" spacers, and big flares they will fit. Nice looking though.

I like the green better...

That is Roostmonkey's car. I'm fairly sure you can get it from MSA.

Bob Sharp Racing...

In a couple weeks I'll be involved with making molds of a bunch of BSR fiberglass parts. One being this rear spoiler: A lot like the BRE, but taller. I'll post photos.

Don't those wheels use the "mag" style lugs like all other 280ZX OEM alloy wheels? Acorn lug nuts will most likely damage those wheels if so.

Try calling them during west coast working hours, it has always worked for me.

Tony, just found this thread... Engine sounds awesome. I like the "Dashy"

I know this has been beat to death, but it is not more complicated to tune with A RR FPR. If you have enough capacity in your injectors, use a stock regulator. If you are on the hairy edge of having enough fuel capacity, a RR FPR can get more fuel out of your fuel system by increasing the fuel pressure beyond a 1:1 ratio. I have tuned a number of cars, (including my own) that have RR FPRs, and there is no difference in tuning. The goal of tuning is to hit your target AFR across all load and map points regardless of fuel pressure. Think of a RR FPR as an automatic FPR that increases fuel pressure when you really need it (under boost). The problem with using a fixed adjustable regulator is that you have a higher pressure all the time. The pressure may be too high at idle to achieve decent idle quality (depending on your ecu).