z-ya

It all depends how much timing advance and what camshaft/valvetrain you will be using. With flat top pistons, N42 head, stock cam, header, you can probably run around 26 deg of advance. Your CR will be close to 10:1 with a stock head gasket. You can expect to get from 150 to 160HP at the wheels from a setup like this, mine did.

I use the same relay for the ECU, as the +12v to the injectors. I put a 10A fuse before the ECU/Injector relay. I wouldn't connect the injectors to the battery without a fuse of some sort.

Hear is the diagram from the MS EDIS information page: This is basically all you need to know. The coil ouputs (pins 10, 11 and 12 on the midule), should go to the following minus terminals on the three coils. Not that if you are using an EDIS-6 or Chrysler coil pack, there are three coils in one module. Pin 10 goes to minus terminal of coil driving cylinders #1 and #6 Pin 12 goes to minus terminal of coil driving cylinders #2 and #5 Pin 11 goes to minus terminal of coil driving cylinders #3 and #4 So the coil A output should go to the #1 and opposed (#6) cylinders I will be testing this out over the next week, so I will update this post if I find anything wrong.

To be honest, I don't like the idea of magnets on the crank pulley. The 81 ZX turbos had them, and they are know for flying off. With all the effort you will need to put into this non standard setup, I'd just mount a 36-1 wheel and be done with it. Then you can use all the standard MS code

For a stock L28, don't bother with spark control. Just do fuel only control. A wire from the - terminal of the coil is all you need for input trigger to the MS.

Hear is a good source that shows you how to sewt up MS for just about any wheel. There are many examples at the end of the page. http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-wheel.html

If you are using a 36-1 wheel, then just use an EDIS module and the EDIS code for MS. It does all the conditioning required. You want to fire 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4 together. The EDIS and Chrysler coil packs are setup for wasted spark 6 cylinder applications. Four wires, one for +12V, and then one for each coil tower pair (each coil). The EDIS-6 module provides three coil low side outputs that drive the coils directy. It's pretty easy to hook up.

I'll be finishing mine tomorrow, so I will post some pics. I plan on machining the outer pulley in half, and then and leaving a ridge the new trigger wheel can fit over. I will either drill and tap some holes, or weld the trigger wheel on. Whatever metal the Ford wheels are made of, you can't TIG weld it. We are making a new trigger wheel from steel. There is a guy selling steel trigger wheels on msefi.com BTW,

When you drive the relay coil with an OC output, just be sure not to exceed the current sinking capability of the OC output. Use a current limiting resistor to protect the OC output. Pete

The Nology unit is more than just transistor with a TLL input level threshhold. There are at least three coil drivers in there. I use them because they are all sealed and ruggedized. My customer pays for it. For me to build one would cost a heck of a lot more than $75 at my hourly rate. You can also just use a non inverting Schmitt trigger device. A ST has a high and low going threshhold voltage. Once the threshold is crossed, it will switch. Iit will trigger on a high going pulse, but will not trigger again until a low going pulse occurs with the proper threshold. This garantees a clean output pulse. Moby, your op amp circuit will work, but requires a lot more external components. Hear is your basi 74LS14 hex SC inverter: http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ls14.pdf Connect two inverters to make a non inverting SC (I know I did't have to tell you this) A high side drive provides a positive voltage to the coil, where a low side driver provides the ground to the coil (drives it low). For driving relay coils, use an open collector (OC) TTL driver. Connect one end of the relay coil to +12, and the other to the output of you OC driver. The OC driver will drive the relay coil - low. This is the prefered way (and output safe) to drive coils You can use an 74LS05 hex inverter with OC outputs. Just verify that the 74LS05 can source enough current to energize the relay coil, and use two to make a non inverting gate. http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74ls05.pdf

You can drive either one of the ST (VB325, VB326) devices with a 5V TTL output. The high input threshold (VINH) is 4v, so as long as the input on this device goes higher than 4V, it should work. I've used these Nology ignition modules with good luck. These drive the MSD GM replacement coils just fine. They also take a 5V input signal (TTL). http://nology.com/module.html

I have the air screws all the way in, and I set the base idle with the idle set screw. I let the ECU deternine how much air to bypass around the TB for a good idle at all temperatures.

I have mine about 12" downsteam of the turbo outlet. Made it easy to plumb the BOV outlet back into the turbo inlet (like to keep it as much as a sleeper as possible).

Hear is what a NISSAN one looks like.

Yes, that is the one. Thought it was a wire OR using resistors, but now that I think of it, that wouldn't work. You need to use the circuit in the link you posted. This uses diodes to provide an OR of the coil inputs, and isolation. The above schematic is for a 4 cylinder wasted spark setup. You will need another diode for a 6 cylinder wasted spark arrangment.

OK, now I can't find that page in the online EDIS documentation. I did print it out, and I have it at home. I'm in Taiwan now, so when I get home I'll take a closer look. I'm also doing an EDIS project, so I'll let you know how the tach hookup works. What you need to do is run a wire from the - terminal of each coil to a 470 Ohm reisistor. Then take the unconnected end of all three resistors, and tie them together. Connect a wire to this node, and run this to your tach. Basically the wire OR make a simple logical OR of all three coils. So if any of the coils fire, the tach will get a pulse. BTW, a 280Z tach fits nicely in a 240Z housing.

Yes, it could be causing it to run rich, but if you have dyno tuned it, it would have compensted for the location of the IAT.

Air temp too.

If you are going to run the MS with a single coil, then just a 280Z tach will work. Run the - terminal of the coilf through a 470 Ohm resistor to the tach. If you are doing EDIS, you can essentially wire "OR" the - terminals of the coils, again using resistors. The MS documentation shows you how.

So far I have not found that I need anything that MS1 can't provide. I'm using a V3 mainboard for my supercharged L28 EDIS project. I plan on using the basic MS features with EDIS and rev limit. I may use the water injection feature too.

Since you will set the injector staging to simultaneous (under constants in Megatune), it doesn't matter. They will all fire at the same time.

I wire them up so that each injector driver drives three injectors. Then setup the MS so that it fires them in a batch mode. FYI, a single injector driver will drive all 6 injectors if series reistors are used. For CLT, IAT, and TPS sensors I used twisted wires: - CLT/GND - IAT/GND. - Vref/SIG/GND Use you drill and a vise to make your twisted wire assemblies.

Does it have the P90A with hydraulic lifters? If it is a solid lifter head, you can just adjust the valve clearance. It it is a hydraulic head, you need to find out which lifters are gone, and replace them with good used ones (new ones NLA). I have the hydraulic lifters and on cold days I get some tappet noise, but once it warms up a bit, the noise dissapears.

Sounds like SDS has an issue with their air temp compensation. Or, because the intake is getting so hot that it is beyond the scale of the sensor (unlikely). By moving the IAT sensor, you are fixing the symptom, not the problem. Moving the sensor is compensating for some calibration error. An example of why the sensor needs to be in the intake manifold after the TB: Under heavy acceleration in a boosted application, lots of air is flowing through the system, so the IAT in in the IC pipe will give you an accurate reading. But as soon as you let off the throttle, the throttle plate slams almost shut, cutting airflow through the system. In this instance, the air in the IC pipe is MUCH cooler than the air in the intake, but it is the temp of the air in the intake that is important to the ECU. I have seen this behavior, and if the air temp compensation is not correct, the engine will stumble a few seconds after the throttle plate closes. The is due to the fact that now the AF ratio is wrong for the given intake air temp. Once the throttle is opened up a bit, and the temperature drops, the stumble goes away. I have seen the temp jump over 10 deg C (50 F) after a full boost dyno pull. After making a correction to the air temp compensation, the problem went away.

The stock L6 Bosch injection is batch fired. You can run the MS in a simultaneous (batch) or alternating mode. This is great if you have a 4 or 8 cylinder. Since the MS has only two injector outputs, you can't do alternating on an L6 and have three injectors on each output driver. I've installed Wolf 3D systems that have 4 injector outputs, so you can do alternating injector firing on any engine type. BTW, your L6 will run in alternating mode, it just won't idle all that smooth.