chrism

Might want to make sure the stick shift will line up properly in the floor opening or you will have to kiss the center console gooood bye. I would get some pics of what the motor looks like using the Skyline mounts. You may not like what you see. If you plan on running A/C then make sure that will fit also.

Ya, I didn't see your reply in time. Guess I type to slow.

I have a wife and I'm glad she stays in the house and lets me work in the garage. She loves my car but that's where it ends. Also, she never gets upset when I tell her I'm gonna spend more money on the Z. Doubt she will ever post on this forum but she does benefit from the information I use of this site to make my ride fast and fun.

I'm running stock fuel lines and my pressure is between 34psi and 50psi using a rising rate regulator. Most of the problems I was having were the connections using mechanical clamps. They need to be very tight to keep fuel from leaking around the regulator and filter. Other than that, I haven't had any problems. I run a fuel injected RB20DET. I have a 75 280z with the stock tank and return line.

Can't wait for my 75 to be exempt. When I got the car, it hadn't been inspected for 10 years. I figure why start now. So far so good. I'm gonna cross my fingers and hope no one notices.

Soooo, what are you going to put in it or are you going to keep the original motor? Get a good camera so we can see without all the fuzz. Looks great.

Get the Mckinney mounts. They have room to adjust so the engine will sit just right. You won't have to worry about the center console issues. Stick shift is center in trans tunnel opening. The urithane bushings dampen the vibration of the motor. You will still be able to use the AC compressor. Thats if you want air. + the mounts are heavy duty.

1979 1600cc Subaru DL Coupe. Got this pic off Google Images. My car was rust from bumper to bumper. Had to jack one tire up at a time to change tires. Tried the lift and the car just started to crumble. One time I put the jack under the front passenger side of the car and it went through the frame rail and floor board. The front seat had coat hanger wires mounted to the base and bolted somewhere next to the seats so that if the seat fell through the floor, it would not drop all the way to the road. There was a big hole in the floor board on the passenger side. You could see the road go by when driving down the street. There was no floor in the trunk. My dad sold me this car for 300 bucks and that was a rip off. Got me through school so I can't complain.

The units are 40 pounds each. shipping cost for a set to California is around $55 from North Carolina. Total cost for a set of two jacks including shipping is around $155. worst case. Not bad because I can't find anything like them anywhere. The frame is 22” wide, 8” deep and 9” tall. It has a total lift of 3” of the floor. The frame is made of 1/4" thick metal . If you want to calculate shipping from your location for a set, My zip is 27597. Zebulon NC I will use priority mail to ship the casters. That is a flat rate using a priority box 12”x12”x5.5” each caster is 10 pounds and you have to stay under 70 pounds to use the flat rate box The frames will be shipped in a separate box at 40 pounds in weight. Box would be 24”x16”x10” That will hold two frames. You have to stay under 70 pounds or USPS will use freight to ship. I have been posting these on other forums and a lot of the same ideas were talked about. I was thinking about mounting a couple of them to an adjustable carraige and just driving my car onto them with the wheels sitting on the carraige. Then just crank the jacks up on front and back. Now only one person is needed to move the car around. I will be attaching them to my table saw, joiner, radial arm saw, compressor, drill press, band saw, press, etc. Now everything in my shop can be moved in and out. One day a mechanics shop, the next a wood working shop. I also have some of these other dollies. They don't jack up or down but can be used also for moving heavy items round. There are two bolts in the center that can be used as mounting bolts. I would let these go for around $10 ea. Not sure what shipping would be yet. Have to get them weighed. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Ya, Nice try. I have plans on using some of them for heavy shop equipment. Let me get the weight on these things. I would want about $50 ea plus shipping. I know that the casters alone cost more than $50. You get one heck of a heavy duty unit with these.

I got a bunch of these dollies from work and need some ideas on what they could be used for around the shop. They are very heavy duty and can easily be used to lift the front or back of a car. Just turn the screws and the wheels will raise or lower the unit to the ground. Could also mount a motor and transmission on them and roll the unit somewhere in the shop for storage . Another idea would be to mount a piece of plate steel to the front side of the unit in a vertical position with the lug pattern of your hub drilled in it. The idea would be to mount it in place of the tire and then you could roll the car around the shop. You could go sideways or spin the car in place. No pushing the car while someone drives. The back of unit. The front of unit. They are 25" wide and 9" tall.

Most Tachs old or new use a 12v signal from the coil. If you can find a 5v signal then do what china elephants suggested. It is called a pull up resistor. It pulls the 5v signal up to 12v so the tach can trigger off that voltage level. I have the autometer tach and this is what I did. works great. Should be able to do the same thing with the stock tach. Might want to use a 10k resistor to be safe.

performance rod and custom (PRC) can build double pass aluminum radiators for RB in Z . This is in my RB20DET 280Z You can get the shroud and electric fan also if needed.

Can't tell what the main panel is rated for. If it is 100 amps then you should be ok. If it is less, you may be overloading the main panel. Just check and see. You have no idea what the other guys are doing in the other stalls. If they are half as crazy as you then your all in for a big surprise.

Is there power at the head lights.If so, you have a bad ground. Any other items not working on the car.Ex. Wipers, dome light, turn signals.

Yes. I have an RB20DET.

This is what I did to get my Autometer working Running it this way for several months now with no problems.

I do side jobs to pay for upgrades on my car. If I have no side jobs then the car will maintain present status. I've always made sure that I have everything needed when going into the next upgrade so that I'm not stuck without a car for awhile. The side jobs still come poring in and mostly because people look for someone they can trust to do the work right and not leave them hanging. The economy hasn't stopped people from asking me to do work for them yet. I'd say, learn some other skills that you can used to bolster your income. Like painting, roofing, home repair, etc.

I’m surprised you don’t need neutral. You really should check with local code. Even so, if the receptacle box is metal, you are going to have to make sure it is bonded. The ground wire will have to be attached to the box with a bonding screw. Why not just make a permanent sub panel in the work shop? If the breaker pops, you won’t have to run back to the house to turn it back on. Plus you could run other outlets in the shop for other things. Like grinder, lights, drills, etc.

RB20DET mounts don't line up very good. You could do it but the shifter hits the Trans tunnel floor when you try to go in first. Your gonna end up pulling the motor out and making mounts when you see what I'm talking about. If you could care less how the car looks on the inside and don't mind cutting the trans tunnel opening bigger along with not having the center console, then have at it. Just a heads up:redface:

Got my Autometer tach to work using a 470 ohm resistor. Below is a diagram of how I connected it to the tach. Hope this helps. I drove around with this and had no problems.

If your oil pressure switch (which is internal to the oil sending unit) is not working or you have no oil pressure when starting the car, it will not allow power to the fuel pump and also not allow power to the injectors. In looking at the wire diagram for your car, the injectors will pull power from the fuel pump circuit but only if the oil pressure switch is detecting oil pressure. Check the oil pressure switch. It is part of the sending unit that drives the oil pressure guage. Its internal to the sender. I believe that if you have a good switch but no oil pressure, the car will start and then turn off. If the switch is bad, the car will not start. Just turn over. I would just replace it.

While you have the dash loose, check where the main harness goes through the firewall. See if there could be any wires skinned and shorted to the firewall. Also check on the fuse box side where the harness goes through the firewall. As for the Meter getting hot, Try putting a resistor inline with one of the leads. Sounds like the meter you are using does not have internal impedance to handle the current. Use a 100 ohm resistor. Connect one end of the resistor to the lead and the other end to the battery. That will reduce the current a little bit and keep the meter from getting damage.

There is a brown 240z on westgate road by the airport. where Tuner Solutions is locate. They might have moved by now. It is across the street before you get to Truss Wood roof truss company. It doesn't have a for sale sign on it but there is very little rust. It is inside a fenced in area.

You probably pulled a ground wire loose. They used barrel connectors under the dash and when one of them comes loose on a ground wire, a lot of different circuits using the common ground wire will not work. That would explain why you have problems all over the place. Look for a wire hanging that is not connected