chrism

There should be a wire diagram on this site for the S30. It has the color codes. Yes the wires do change color many times as they go from one connection to the next. Real pain but without the wire diagram, you will be making this 10 times more difficult for yourself. Do a search.

What do you think it's going to be worth when your done. Please post all the changes so we can see what you did. Lots of high def pics.

I put an RB20DET in my 75Z. Other than a couple of bolt on things like a chipped ECU, 440cc injectors, sard regulator, little bit bigger turbo, I have no plans to dump any more money into it. It's just a DD and I get 32mpg at this point. If you go to 300RWHP or more, you are going to have to change out the stock clutch also. Stock is going to burn up. That alone could cost way too much.

Is the ECU grounded properly? I think you are right that there is a ground issue. Try using a noid light . Place it across the contacts of the injector plug. You should see the light blink if the ECU is providing a good ground pulse when turning over the engine. If you don't have one then you can use a multimeter to see if the voltage is dropping when the motor turns over. A ground pulse from the ECU should pull the voltage down a couple of voltes.

Carpet is custom.

I would change out the fuel completely. Some times you can get a bad tank from the gas station. I had the same problem and changed out the fuel.

There's not that many wires involved. You should read Chris Rummel's RB into Z thread. That will give you some idea of what is involved. It is somewhat intimidating when you start but when you get done, you will know everything about the wiring in your car. Then you can fix any problem that comes up relating to wiring. It also forces you to understand how the injectors and coil packs work along with the fuel pump and the starting system. This is not bad information to have floating around in your head. If you have time, do it yourself, save the cash, and drive something you built yourself. Then you can live up to the name Sexy Sam.

No, I made some new brackets using flat stock steel 3/16" thick and 1.5 " wide. There are 4 pcs of flat stock that I used. The first two run front to back and line up over the holes in the floor. Bolt them to the floor. The 2nd set run left to right. On the driver side, I had to put the flat stock on top of the left bracket closest to the door and under the bracket next to the trans tunnel. That got the seat to sit level and lower. Do the same with the passenger side. The 2nd set of flat stock mounts will also hang past the first set of flat stock mounts. Then you put the seat in and get it lined up. Mark the holes and then drill them out so you can bolt the seat in. The idea is that the first set will bolt to the existing holes in the floor and the 2nd set will bolt to the holes in the seat. Hope this helps

just ordered the devilbiss plus (cost 289 shipped) comes with the 2 other tips (i hear 1.3 is good for base) going to HF for a cheap primer gun... i have 4 cars right now to paint so im sure the gun will pay for its self

im looking to get a nice finish gun.. which is an all around better deal? the devilbiss plus comes with 3 tips . 1.2, 1.3, and 1.4 (ill most likely only use the 1.4) the devilbiss plus (from what i hear) can lay down clear like the sata 2000s, but they arent hvlp. the Iwata lph-400 cost a little more (id prob buy a used one) but i hear nothing but fantastic things about this gun. anyone on here have any experience with these 2 particular guns that can fill me in on their pros and cons? thanks!!

I use a fresh layer of transmission fluid and oil to cover up the old stains. Works every time.

Big brake kit. No complaints here. Responds to his email or PMs

Looked at your build thread. Reminds me of when my son and I put the motor in my Z. Couple of cheesy grins in anticipation of having a fast obnoxious car. Good Job.

Make sure car is not in gear. Turn key to on position. Use jumper cable. Touch one end of cable to + terminal on battery. Take other end and touch post on starter solenoid. If car turns over, then you may have a bad connection from the relay to the solenoid. You can take a volt meter and check the output of the relay when the key is in the start position. If it does not read 12v, you may have a bad relay.

Get to know some local tuner shops. Some guys will replace those seats with other seats more suitable for racing. I got mine from someone who was stripping their car down to make it lighter. The deal was too good to pass up.

Arif, I just used flat stock metal 1" wide by 3/16" inch thick. Run a set front to back in line with the holes in the floor. Make them same length as rails on seat. You will have to pull the plugs out from under the floor to get access to the bolts. Then bolt a piece of flat stock metal across the front and one across the back making it the same width as the seat. Looks like a big square when you are done. Best thing would be to make the frame assembly and mount to the seat. This will help make sure the holes in the seat rail match the holes in the frame assembly. One other thing. If you have a cat on your car, you will have a problem using these seats. You have to move the cat hump on the side of the trans tunnel so it's not in the way of the drive seat. Its located on the driver side. You will notice it when you take the driver side seat out. It has to be moved or the seat will not fit. Last, I used washers to shim the seat rail so the seat sits in the car properly. You will notice that if you don’t do this the seats will be leaning to one side. Good Luck

Use scissor truss over the third stall. They create a vault that will give you more height. I had a three stall garage and what I liked is that when you heat it in the winter, you won't lose all the heat when one door is opened for a short time. If you open a two stall, all the heat goes out fast. + three stall looks better to me. This is a house I built several years ago. Warning, not the best camera.

A loose ground cable will cause arcing at the terminal lug connection on the battery. It also creates resistance. Any time you have resistance in a circuit, you have power dissipation and heat is the byproduct of power dissipation. That will cause the cable to heat up. If the cable has been this way for some time, you will want to inspect the lug and terminal. It probably has pitting on the inside where the lug and the terminal make contact. If that is the case, I would recommend getting a new cable terminal. Make sure it is on tight. Sometimes you can see smoke coming from the terminal connection when the car is starting. That is another sign that the terminal is not tight enough.

Toyota Camry water temp sending unit Honda Civic fuse panel RB20DET Skyline throttle cable Honda civic charcoal canister Honda S2000 seats GE dishwasher kick plat used to mount gauges in center dash Toyota brakes

See, I knew someone would come up with a great idea. Soda is 50 cents so I can only do this 30 times and then I'm SOL.

I would want a swap in it with around 400 whp+ for that price. LS1 or RB.

Has to be under $15 in parts. That looks like $50. We are talking dark age tech. Something that you have to set and then forget. Ugly but works. Hide under the dash never to be seen again. Until it stops working of course. haha

Should be the same as the Autometer tach for the RB20DET. 470 to 10k ohm resistor between the signal and 12v supply on the back of the tach.

OK, We have an unspoken rule here. If you find the problem, you have to post it. Even if it was a simple fix. Don't just leave us hanging. Thats the rule.

Very nice, Looks like it's welded in place. How do you get if off?