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Derek

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Everything posted by Derek

  1. Derek

    Refurb_22

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    I went back over any areas I broke through with epoxy primer.
  2. Derek

    Refurb_21

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    The car is now blocked with 180 grit and ready for a final sanding with 320 to get rid of the 180 scratches.
  3. Derek

    Refurb_20

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    Car is primed with turbo 2K primer and ready for blocking.
  4. Derek

    Refurb_19

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    Epoxy primer on the roof and deck lid.
  5. Derek

    Refurb_18

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    voila! No more lock cylinder.
  6. Derek

    Refurb_17

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    The panel adhesive has been ground back and I'm ready for the bondo.
  7. Derek

    Refurb_16

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    It's not pretty but it gets the job done.
  8. Derek

    Refurb_15

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    I decided to do away with the door lock cylinders. I'm installing a keyless entry system so this will be one more level of security. Once again panel adhesive makes quick work of a difficult job.
  9. Derek

    Refurb_14

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    Here's the 1/4 panel patch I glued in. You can see how using a guide coat helps you see what your sanding and what needs more work.
  10. Derek

    Refurb_13

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    I put a coat of duraglass down first. Then I top coat with bondo. Duraglass is much stronger than the bondo and is waterproof as well. The bondo I chose is Rage extreme. It was expensive but it laid out easily and sanded like butter. Only do a few areas at a time so you can work the bondo during its optimal sanding period. Also do a search on guide coating and use it!!
  11. Derek

    Refurb_12

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    All the rust has been treated with ospho, dried overnight, and then re-sanded. I then painted the really rusty sections with por-15. Now this is the tricky part. If you wait until the por is dry the primer won't stick. The ideal time is when the surface is still tacky but wont leave a trace on your finger when you touch it. Then I sprayed a coat of epoxy primer over all the bare metal. I used Southern Polyurethanes products and couldn't have been happier.
  12. Derek

    Refurb_11

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    Couldn't be simpler!
  13. Derek

    Refurb_10

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    Here I've sanded back all the rust and treated with Ospho.
  14. Derek

    Refurb_9

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    This was a tricky repair. Here is where the panel adhesive really comes in handy
  15. Derek

    Refurb 8

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    The roof and deck lid were showing signs of surface rust under the paint so I decided to strip the paint down to the metal.
  16. Derek

    Refurb 7

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    I stripped the clamps and screws this morning and man am I happy with this repair. It was a whole lot easier than welding and has rigidity about it that you don't get with spot welding.
  17. Derek

    Refurb 6

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    I made a backing plate out of the left over material I cut from the patch panel. I screwed the backing plate to the inside of the ¼ and then screwed the patch panel to it. I then disassembled the piece and got the adhesive gun ready. I reassembled everything but this time with adhesive on all of the contact areas. I made sure that I had a large enough bead so that it would create a water tight seal as well.
  18. Derek

    Refurb 5

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    I'm splicing in a repair panel on the bottom of the ¼ panel. The black stuff is por-15
  19. Derek

    Refurb 4

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    When it came time to start repairing the rust my 240Z body I was trying to figure the best way for me to make the repairs. I have a full metalworking shop including a tig, mig, and spot welder so I had a few options to play with. I had been using some pretty awesome adhesives on my foundry patterns and thought I would investigate it more. My theory on the adhesives was that it would be better in two ways. The first would be no metal fatigue from the weld and the second would be superior strength because of th increased contact area. I did some research on the web and found that panel adhesive is some pretty spectacular stuff. I found plenty of tests where the metal would tear before the adhesive would fail. I purchased some SEM 39747 panel adhesive and an application gun.
  20. Derek

    Refurb 2

    From the album: Refurbish #2

  21. Derek

    Refurb 1

    From the album: Refurbish #2

    As you can see by the next few pictures there is quite a bit of rust to repair.
  22. Thanks Guys. That's what I was afraid of. I may just bite the bullet and buy the ones from Too Intense Restoration. I think wee need something like a parts supplier wiki. When you buy a part from a supplier you can list your likes and dislikes on the wiki. Just a thought. Derek
  23. Black Dragon. Not the best quality but it was a good starting point.
  24. Does anyone have any experience with the door squeegees from Black Dragon? I would prefer to get them from Too Intense Restoration but I have a 1973 so apparently they're different from the 70-72 versions. They're price on the later ones are a little rich for my blood! Black Dragon has them for 29.95 each. Of course if they're crap then it's not much of a deal. Thanks Derek
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