Derek

Thanks Guys. That's what I was afraid of. I may just bite the bullet and buy the ones from Too Intense Restoration. I think wee need something like a parts supplier wiki. When you buy a part from a supplier you can list your likes and dislikes on the wiki. Just a thought. Derek

Black Dragon. Not the best quality but it was a good starting point.

Does anyone have any experience with the door squeegees from Black Dragon? I would prefer to get them from Too Intense Restoration but I have a 1973 so apparently they're different from the 70-72 versions. They're price on the later ones are a little rich for my blood! Black Dragon has them for 29.95 each. Of course if they're crap then it's not much of a deal. Thanks Derek

No more than a 1/4 of th tube. Probably less. Don't forget you need the dispensing gun as well. Derek

Yes you can. This stuff dries hard as a rock. I read about some complaints/concerns about shadowing through the paint but I think I'll have enough filler over everything to stop that. Derek

Click on the tech sheets link and then you can download a pdf. most 2K primers take days to cure shrinking as they cure. Turbo 2K cures in 4 hours. Also the primer needs to be a DTM product. I agree with you on the prices. I'm doing a very basic base coat clear coat job on my Z and I have over $400.00 in paints and primers so far. Derek

I'm using SEM 39747 panel adhesive. 39747 MULTI-PURPOSE PANEL ADHESIVE is a non-sag, two component epoxy adhesive system formulated to bond steel, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass panels without the use of an external primer. 39747 provides long working times (90 minutes) allowing body shops to correctly position parts for proper alignment. This adhesive contains glass beads to insure adequate bond line control. 39747 is an easy to use 2:1 adhesive that forms resilient bonds and maintains its strength over a wide range of temperatures. 39747 is suitable for bonding a variety of substrates, especially automotive grade cold rolled steel.

The high fill primer is designed to be easy sanding. The rustolium primer is designed to be an adhesion promoter. I would go with a DTM primer like the one you posted or Turbo 2k primer from southern polyurethanes which is also roll able. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product%20lines.htm I'm no expert but this is how I would do it. Roll on a couple of thick coats of 2k primer, spray on a guide coat. hand block with 180 or use 180 on a 6" DA and hand block the body lines, then hit it with 320 to get rid of the scratches (might be over kill for the Rustoleum) then go for the Rustoleum. Derek

Hi Rick Yes I'm finally making it happen! I'm taking the whole week off to get as much done as I can. This isn't a show car so I'm prepared for quite a few compromises! Thanks for the tip on the screw holes. When are you guy's coming down for the shop tour? I hope to be blocking the primer this weekend so that would be a great time for a visit:eek: Derek

When it came time to start repairing the rust my 240Z body I was trying to figure the best way for me to make the repairs. I have a full metalworking shop including a tig, mig, and spot welder so I had a few options to play with. I had been using some pretty awesome adhesives on my foundry patterns and thought I would investigate it more. My theory on the adhesives was that it would be better in two ways. The first would be no metal fatigue from the weld and the second would be superior strength because of th increased contact area. I did some research on the web and found that panel adhesive is some pretty spectacular stuff. I found plenty of tests where the metal would tear before the adhesive would fail. I purchased some SEM 39747 panel adhesive and an application gun. Here's a shot of the first repair I did. This was not one I was looking forward to repairing. I decided that this was going to be a worst case test so I did a minimal of surface prep on the back side of the ¼ panel. I roughed up the galvanized a bit and laid a pretty good sized bead around the piece. I was able to wedge it in place from behind. On other repairs I ended up using tech screws to hold pieces while they cured. Here's a shot of the repair. Notice how easy it was to repair the section between the ¼ glass sill and the patch panel. I just filled the groove with panel adhesive. I let the panel cure over night and gave it a few shots with the palm of my hand. Man was it solid, It gave off a thud like it was a solid panel. I made this repair about six months ago and have periodically rapped it with a rubber hammer and it hasn't budged. Here's a repair I did this weekend. I'm splicing in a repair panel on the bottom of the ¼ panel. The black stuff is por-15 I made a backing plate out of the left over material I cut from the patch panel. I screwed the backing plate to the inside of the ¼ and then screwed the patch panel to it. I then disassembled the piece and got the adhesive gun ready. I reassembled everything but this time with adhesive on all of the contact areas. I made sure that I had a large enough bead so that it would create a water tight seal as well. I stripped the clamps and screws this morning and man am I happy with this repair. It was a whole lot easier than welding and has rigidity about it that you don't get with spot welding. I'm not sure of the long term effects of this but I read that BMW is using adhesives to hold on frame rails so they must be believers! Derek

This is in the ocala craigs list but the car is in orlando. He's asking $500.00 http://ocala.craigslist.org/car/499606408.html Derek

Great production value! What were you using for you camera mount. Something homemade or store bought? Derek

Man that sounds way cool. I would love to get a look at that. I think you should start a thread about your motor as a lot of people here (me included) would love to see it. I agree with you about the stainless galling but I'm not using it as a bearing surface. The problem with this manifold is getting a good fit between the butterfly and the tube. Since I can't machine inside the tubes very easily I'm going to cast in a machined piece of stainless tube so I have a known dimension for the butterfly. I have sealed bearings top and bottom for the throttle shafts. I'm a patternmaker by trade and plan on getting one of my foundries to do the castings for me. Again please post some shots of the motor!!! Derek

I'm sure I've almost fallen into "all talk" status by now but I really am trying to make this happen! I managed to get the core box completed for the front manifold. Now all I need to do is machine the throttle tube inserts, sand and paint the patterns and mount them to a board. This is both halves of the core box. Each half will be packed with a hardening sand. The two halves will then be glued together to form a completed sand core. The rectangular sections in the front and back are the prints. Prints are what locate the sand in the proper position inside the main mold. This is a closeup of where the stainless steel throttle tubes will go. they will be clamped in position in one half and sand will be packed inside it. on the other half of the core this section of sand will be removed. This will allow the aluminum to encapsulate the tubes. I hope! You can also see the sand that will form the vacuum passage between the tubes. The front tube (bottom screen) is the best compromise I could work out between having a tapered tube yet entering the port in a reasonable way. Soon my precious..... Derek

I'm much more impressed with the bicycleist. That took some real talent! Derek

por-15 Derek

Well the only place I could find pricing is Wolf Creek Racing. 3 BRAND NEW OLD STOCK 44MM CARBS, Box Stock, not modified.......................$1500.00 44/45 mm Mikuni Short triple sidedraft manifold for Z-car w/ linkage BRAND NEW NEVER USED................ $ 425.00 Intake Horns for 40’s & 44’s Carb sizes:50 mm $30 each or $ 115/set of 4 That's $2105.00 plus the air filters. So $1300.00 is a little high as a starting bid but I don't think it's too unreasonable. Derek

Just a heads up. I'm listing these for a friend. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190175943236&rd=1 Thanks Derek

Well I paid 2500.00 for my 1973 240 and it was in perfect shape. But that was in 1981 so adjusted for inflation that's about $6000.00 . Now it's a basket case and not worth a plug nickel but it's on it's way back up again! Derek