Pop N Wood

Man. You guys aren't even trying. It is a sticky at the top of this forum http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=25481

Man. I drank enough of that swill when I lived in Bremerton WA. But, like the bear, I kept going back for more. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5756809/ Party Animal!

Here is what my wife wants to do with my remains: http://www.lifegem.com/

And the above line is also an error. You may have 1050 lbf acting on the top of the strut tower' date=' but how much of that is being absorbed by the other structural elements of the chassis? Not fair to say the whole thing is being supported only by the strut bar. Ditto? As for the suspension bottoming out, at that point haven't you have pretty much lost it anyway? With a soft suspension what would be the advantage of a stiffer chassis? For potholes seems like you would want even more give since no one here is a street racer anyway. Paint cracking in the C pillars may be helped with a strut bar, but I can tell you first hand it doesn't cure it. I have a straight bar between the rear struts towers on my 1970 (a nice MSA one that didn't clear my L6) and I still get chassis creaks going down driveways. One other thing to consider. Jersey's now infamous girlie (er, sissy) bar is solidly welded to the strut mounts. My MSA bar has heim joints. Is the purpose of the strut bar to keep the struts parallel, or to stop all movement altogether? Wouldn't that have an affect here? This was exactly the point I was trying to make. One of JohnC's favorite answers to "this is better". But to extrapolate my conduit example, at some point if you make a curved bar heavy enough, it will be stronger than a straight bar made out of lesser material. Or else how could motorcycles function with curved downtubes?

Why would you want to do such a dishonest thing?

Yeah and quit knocking British cars. Any country that could produce the Merlin powered Spitfire....

Little girlie man strut bar. Can't even get a straighty.

Don't be too quick to rule out the LT1. Very popular swap, can be done at a fraction of the price of the LS1 and you have the advantange of the JTR manual as an installation guide. (LS1 requires different mounts, but information on that is getting better). One big question to answer is smog requirements. Most states extempt old cars from testing, but not from having all the smog equipment. Pre 96 engines are not OBDII thus don't require things like cats and ABS wheel sensors to be compliant. One member found out the hard way that after completing his LS1 swap he couldn't get the vehicle legally licensed. Others haven't had that problem (or left out the word "legally") so just make sure you do your homework before you start. Having said all that, the LS1 has quite a few advantages over the older technology LT engines. A better stock power rating for one. So keep reading old posts and monitor ebay to get an idea of prices before you commit. BTW, thanks for the pics of the LS1 mounts. Now saved in my personal archives!

You could also list anything made by Jaguar, since, after all, they are a subsidary of an American car company. I seem to remember a few Carol Shelby knock offs doing quite well on the other side of the pond. But I have always loved AstonMartins...

Hey. Did you know you have a dent around your right rear tail light?

I agree with the guys above. A bit of carbon build up on an already high compression engine causes an even higher compression ratio. This makes the engine run just like a diesel, the gas self ignites. Shutting the engine off while in gear puts a little extra load on the thing and makes it stop quicker. My Z use to do that unless I bought premium gas and used octane boosters. Finaly realized the carbs throttle shafts leaked air. Putting on a set of webers allowed it to run fine with regular. So do like the guys said above. Get out on the freeway and open it up to "blow out the carbon". But also check for vacuum leaks.

I just hope you have some good theft deterence, because that is one hell of a piece of bait you are trolling with. Might rethink the tires and a larger fuel cell, but as long as the cops don't have a bullseye on you it sounds like a nice, reliable commuter.

I think it is one of the better cages I have seen posted on this site. Would like to know if it passes the Katman test Guess you won't be mounting the battery in the traditional spot. Sounds like a hell of a project. Keep us updated on your progress!!

I saw the same show. In addition to the weight, he talked about how immensly popular the engine is in drifting. Go with what you know, and build a crowd pleaser in the process. Guess there was a good reason....

And if she got divorced, but kept her hyphenated last name, Miss Poon Tang, then would she be what sailor feels when then go out to sea for 6 months?

Says it all. The only HP number that matters is the one your engine is actually spinning at. If your power band is too narrow and your gearing can't keep you in it, then you won't accelerate. Also Cheby put some pretty potent small blocks in those late 60 Chevelles. The power cureves were good and fat too. Made them a good match to the limited number of gears in the trannys of the day. It could really make a difference which 350 option the car had.

Where does that hard line actually go? I bought a complete "kit" (which I have yet to install) and the guy I bought it from could not tell me where it comes into play.

I got the same message

Someone had posted a link here to an excellent site detailing a 240 sx V8 swap. Had a lot of detail and plenty of pictures. The way the guy did it the swap was suprisingly straight forward. Of course the search tool is coming up empty on "240 sx".....

Are you sure you didn't get a tank of Gasahol? The alcohol is a pretty good solvent that breaks free built up crud and clogs filters. Either way, flush the tank (PITA) and stock up on fresh filters. If you want to get even, try draining the tank onto the ground and flushing it out at the pump of Gas America.

Boy. You can have all of the grandiose words and flowery prose. It is the simple statements that speak the loudest to me!!! I actually had a related conversation about the virgins of the Koran just yesterday. I had not thought about the female martyrs...

Gotta respect the power of the internet! Appologies to all of the honest, professionals out there, but damn it can be frustrating dealing with commerical shops. I don't even let someone else change my oil for this very reason.

Another trick I learned is to get some extra tranny bolts, cut the heads off and turn them into alignment studs (use a hacksaw to cut a screwdriver slot). Thread one on either side and use them as transmission hangers while you wiggle and align the transmission. Holds the weight of the transmission and ensures it is properly centered. Once you get the other bolts in, use a screw driver to remove the alignment studs. I grew up too poor to afford a floor jack, let alone a jack just for transmissions.