Pop N Wood

I honestly would not worry about it. For all of it's rhetoric, Iran is actually one of the more stable countries of the region. They don't really have a WMD program as much as a uranium enrichment program. (Although obviously one could lead to the other.) Have to wonder if we wouldn't be smart to offer free enrichment for power plant grade uranium to countries that can otherwise do it for themselves. We have such huge stockpiles of fission material that we bought from the former Soviet Union. Just one man's opinion.

Humorous. It was such a picture of tranquility before Bush arrived. All I can say is double digit lead....

I welded some stainless with my MIG for the first time just the other day. Got a 2# spool of wire for $17 and just fired it up. Worked perfectly.

I don't doubt that a mechanic with a dial indicator could measure excessive run out. It also makes perfect sense that the run out could be from an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor. The only question I am posing is what fix to use. If the metal of the rotors is physically warped (bent), then turning or replacing the rotors is the only real fix. If the rotor run out is excessive due to a build up of brake pad material, then you can turn the rotors to retrue. But another possiblity is to clean off the excessive material and save what life you have left in the existing rotors. Your call.

Has anyone ever had to collect on an appraised policy? I have heard bad things about what they will insure your car for and what actually gets paid out. Would be nice to hear some positive stories.

You definitely want to do a search on this topic. Has been discussed regularly. Some pads are much better than others. Also chances are your rotors aren't "warped" but just have an uneven layer of break pad material fused on the surface. You can probably clean them up, add a fresh set of pads and be good to go. The break in procedure for new pads and rotors is essentially driving though a parking lot, speeding up and breaking hard without ever letting the car come to a complete stop. Start with low speeds and work your way up to faster speeds. This heats up the pads, depositing an even layer of brake pad material on the rotors. If you let the car come to a complete stop, the pads will stick to the rotor depositing a thick layer at that point.

And the REALLY good thing is UT will not have to play Oklahoma any more.

I'll be gald when this election is over.

Damn. What a shame. Seemed like quite the character. http://www.charlotte.com/mld/charlotte/entertainment/gossip/9533189.htm?1c But something told me it was only a matter of time before standing on the seat of a moving motorcycle caught up with him.

Man. Hearing all of this makes me realize what a great deal I got on my welder. Close out at Sams club, 145 amp DC Century welder normally $750 for only $400. Throw in another $100 or so for the tank and $60 for a harbor freight auto darkening helmet. Never had a problem with it. Welds sheet metal like no tomorrow. If you are even asking MIG or TIG, then the answer is MIG. A good TIG machine will start somewhere in the $1500 range. Probably 95% of the guys start with a MIG and graduate to a TIG when their reach starts to exceed their grasp. MIG's work great on stainless. Just get the Argon-CO2 mix that most welding places sell. Have to take exception with the TIG being hard to use. I found it harder to adapt to a MIG. Probably comes from welding exclusively with a torch for so many years. The nice thing about a TIG/torch is you can pull the rod out of the puddle. I also find it easier to weld a thin piece to a thick piece with a torch/TIG since you can better direct the heat toward the thick piece without all the filler rod going there also. But if you can only afford one welder, get a torch. Much more versatile than either the MIG or TIG, can weld mild steel, aluminum and chrome moly. You have more trouble with heat warping than a MIG, but there are ways around that. Will work great on your struts. Can’t really use it on stainless except to braze it (with the proper flux). A torch doesn’t require 220 volt and can also be used to heat/temper metal. Plasma cutters are great, but they are expensive, don’t like cutting painted material and you really need different sized machines for different thickness of metal. A cutting torch will pretty much go through any ferrous material whether it is clean or not.

The game will undoubtedly be canceled.

The poor realtor was probably wondering why the ad was getting millions of hits....

Dang. And with Miami-FSU this weekend.....

Guess I could learn a few things about tact from Micheal.

I have bid on motors priced like that. Trust me. It won't sell for anywhere near $1300

Do a search on member name MikeJTR. I assume this in the prophet himself (he wrote the "bible" didn't he?). He has been suggesting his new products for some time now.

Guess I should be more careful. Didn't mean to offend. But you seemed to be looking for a little more info than just the 4 link setup. Quite a few people have done what you want to do. Look back through some old posts and you will find plenty of info. I do suggest you do a search on stub axles to help you with your rear end question. You might also find quite a number of posts about the whole Z vs. Vette vs. heavy-subframe-solid-rear-axle topic. Some other things you might want to research include unibody vs. subframe vehicles, the handling and streetablity of a well built Z suspension, IRS vs. a solid rear axles, building for HP vs torque (such a low HP BBC with that many cubes will have tremendous torque, especially with narrow tires), the advantages and disadvantages of a big block vs. small block conversion, etc. etc. But it is your car. To each his own. Just offering one man's opinion to help you get what it is you want.

If you have a "fix" for health care I am all ears.... The #1 problem is getting everyone to agree what is broken. I make good money and have had employer sponsored health care for years. Yet every year my costs go up (a lot) while the coverage has gone down (a lot). Try buying basic antibiotics for a child's ear infection. I don't see how a government run health plan will improve that. The only political fixes I hear talked about simply shift the cost to someone else. Guess who is going to be the end recipient of that round robin? When it comes to health care, I think the Regan quote applies. Government is not the solution. It is the problem. And yes, if you really want to influence the system, join some type of political group. Like the NRA. Voting is important, but sometimes people have a very naive belief in it. BTW. Hillary's health care proposals scared the shit out of me. Thank God she never got anywhere with that.

Not to be an elitist, but sounds to me like you want a 60-70's Chevelle or Nova, not a Z. Would be a much easier starting point than a 280. For example, you are going to have a hard time "boxing" the frame rails on a Z. I don't know the answer to your question about the 4 link.

Yeah. Thanks for serving. If it were feasible for me I would come down and give you a hand. Just a bit too far from Baltimore. Also better Gitmo than Iraq or Afganistan.

You would also need to worry about making a seam that could trap moisture causing rust. Riveted seams will move more than a welded one. Thus I would also worry about any type of seam sealing compound losing it's seal.

Maybe if we ignore our young Australian friend he will just go away. I cry BS. Cite a reference. A country as small as Australia would probably have to make some pretty serious cuts to afford a war like Iraq. But as a percentage of our GNP the Iraq situation is really not that stressing (monetarily anyway) to the US. And to think that the expense is being borne by Lincoln Southwest high school is patently absurd. (Go Huskers!) Wasn't that Michael Moore's acceptance speech at the academy awards? You seem to be quite a fan of him. I suggest you broaden your sources of information. The US constitution might be a good place to start. Maybe then you would realize that was the only possible legal outcome of that election. After that you might try reading this entire thread. Perhaps then you will see why people are taken back by your statements.

Larger rear tires will also make your speedometer read lower than actual. Maybe you were just going faster than you have before? I know the front end lift due to the Z's poor aerodynamics degrades really quickly past some speed.