Pop N Wood

So then what does taking 600 cfm and dividing by the cross sectional area of the pipe yield?

I know that feeling. But how much money will be saved if only the crank is rebuilt and it spins a cam bearing a week after the rebuild? Not money well spent in my opinion. The biggest expense will already be covered. How much extra are we talking to freshen up the rest of the motor?

Pretty unbelievable. But that can't be an easy situation to answer question in. Not to mention questions as dumb as that one. I'm sure she made up for in in the swimsuit portion.

I am still using the wooden crate my motor came in. I mounted it on a funiture dolly ($15 at harbor freight). It wheels around easily. I added a few wooden spacers so the feet of the engine lift fit under the crate. I modified the crate slightly so it holds the motor with the transmission installed. I do have to pull the starter. I can take more detailed pictures tonight if you want.

Why take it apart and not fully rebuild it? At least that way you will know you got all the torn up bearing material out of the motor.

Not sure I want to get back into this but you guys do realize that air is compressible?

Post some pics. Will give guys a better idea Some people's idea of "no rust" is different from mine. I personnaly wouldn't pay more than 3-5 thousand for what you are talking about. If it is so original that it is a restoration candidate, then someone might pay over $10k. But I am not that someone.

Just another replay of the homoerotic tome of the original Boy wants Vin, but can't have him so uses car to get him in some way

Those won't work with the truck water pump and crank pully. The truck, F body and vette belts all have different spacings from the block.

You can't really go wrong either way. Pick the one you like the looks of best, or the one that needs the least amount of work. If you aren't going all out racing with 300+ pound springs, then the chassis stiffness thing is a bit irrelevant. You are going to put in strut tower braces either way. Those and maybe a set of bad dog rails (JohnC says he can install those in a day or so) and you should be set. But beware the myth of the "no rust" 240. Take a good long look at it before you make any decisions.

That sucks. But old cars require constant tinkering. Not much way around it. Got to have a reliable daly driver.

CO2 extinguishers require periodic inspections to make sure they are fully charged. The ABC dry chemical ones are cheaper and a little more foolproof for the standard homeowner. But they are a mess to clean up and the residue is corrosive to wiring/electrical equipment. Keeping one near each door is excellent advice. Keeping a bucket of water handy is also very good advice.

Man, you just hijacked your own thread.

I eat more chicken than any man ever seen Yeah, I'm a back door man....

I'm not having any issue with them. My kids computer recently caught some kind of virus/hijack thing that defied any attempt to remove it. We had to blank the hard drive to get rid of it. It wasn't malicious, just every third or fourth time I would click an IE link it would open a new copy of IE on a sales site.

What is the one bracket you need to get the alternator to work with the truck pulley and water pump? Haven't heard of that one. You are also forgetting the price of replacing either the the truck intake or the hood, cause the two won't play well together.

That got the blood flowing

It is not transit time that matters. It is pressure drop. Pressure drop and intake volume. Tubing diameter is only part of the story. Take a fixed diameter pipe and make in longer and you will have more pressure drop through it. Just like needing a heavier guage wire as the circuit length increases. And for lag, you need to be concerned with volume of the intake track. With a larger volume you will have a greater mass of air, and under pressure, more stored energy. It is overcoming the inertia of the air mass and charging up and bleeding down of the stored energy that can contribute directly to the lack of a throttle response. I am not saying there is anything wrong with your set up. Looks sanitary to me. But I do maintain that the smaller the intake track the better, both in terms of throttle response and ultimate HP. That is why some people use air to water intercoolers. Measure the pressure drop from the turbo to the intake at full load. That will tell you what you may have lost or gained but the longer piping.

Not sure I agree with that statement. Turbo lag is the main issue. But headloss through all that pipe is not good either. A pressure guage at the turbo outlet and manifold inlet will answer the question though.

If you buy a set of ARP bolts for say a SBC they come with flat washers.

I think most people call them shortie headers. Same as what are commonly referred to as block huggers. https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT-Z_LS1-Headers.html

Shoot. That thing even has the Datsun 240Z label on the glove box. Those things have been unavailable since the 80's Nice pic of how to route everything behind the dash.

El Segundo! I use to work there! There are pull rods on each side to open the side vents. There is also a knob on a flexible cable on the driver's that you can turn to reset the trip odometer. At least that is the way my car is set up.

I agree with the no porn idea. I'm no Christian and I do have an excessively vulgar sense of humor. So I am definitely not pretending to be above it. But that stuff warps your perspective. And I won't say it is addictive but it does get under your skin and make you crave more. Kind of a self fueling desire. Teach your kid to be respectful of all people and all things. Porn doesn't help in that regard. My kids are a little young yet so I haven't had to deal with this. Just understand it is part of life and watch for external signs to make sure it doesn't get out of control. Causal conversations about safe sex and unwanted pregnancies should already be a regular occurrence.

LOL Chuck made out in that trade. Ended up with the babe in furs, one who can't talk no less.