Pop N Wood

From the number of failed stubs I have seen on here I tend to agree with you. and from this link you can see that getting rid of the taper moves the weak point to the splined area itself

The FAQ page has some stub axle failure pictures http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 The 280 axle is a larger diameter right at the base of the threads than the 240 axles. There is a much better picture floating around the web showing more precise dimensions on the two axles. It use to be on Eric Neyerlin's site, but I can't find it anymore. You might be able to find it searching this site.

If you look at the part number it will tell you everything you need to know about the belt. The number of ribs and belt length are in the part number. If you have a belt that is too short or too long, then it is a simple thing to figure out what to add to the part number to get the correct length belt.

I got a set of about 4' tall tanks for $50 from a scaffolding place that was closing. They are not the full sized tanks but one size down from that. I went cheap with a Radnor torch set. Not the best investment I have ever made.

Damn. You people don't use the search button? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413 Threads get tool sheded for that type of thing.

Guess I have been through too many 7+'s.

Why not buy a full sized truck instead of trying to make one from a minitruck? You will save yourself a bunch of money that way.

That thing has been on ebay a number of times in the past few years.

That is a lot to ask of a friend. Big job.

My Mom had a protege. It was an older model, but even though it had a good sized engine with a good HP rating it always felt slow and heavy. She didn't have the best luck with it either. Only went a little over 100K miles. I have always had good luck with Toyotas. The last 3 vehicles I have bought have been toyotas, so maybe I am biased. You need to drive both cars and see which one you like that way.

Because it is all about options. If he can come up with a cost effective way to put in bigger U joints then that might be worth pursuing. Past arguments, and I have been in quite a number of them, have concentrated on the relative strength of U joints and CV joints that were commonly available on Z cars or can be readily adapted to a Z car. I have already agreed that given that limited set of choices, then CV's are considered the better choice. But that doesn't answer the question of "will bigger U joints fix the problem". The answer is obviously "yes, but....." Or should we just shut the site down and direct every question to the search feature because obviously if it is possible then it has already been talked about?

Vette's made in the 70's were overweight and underpowered. They didn't really handle all that well either. Opinions will vary...... But compare the price of a 70 something vette and a pre 69 vette and see if there aren't others that agree. Stick to vette's from the 60's and the 90's on. The current vette is a world beater.

That says nothing about the relative strength of the two devices Here is a link to a Cardan joint shaft that is rated for over 4000 ft-lbs of continuous torque. I guess if what you read on Wikipedia is correct than the CV's on Z car should be good to something greater than that.

6.8 is a little one.

Google it. There is info out there. Someone once told me it is illegal to posses an airbag that is not hooked up to a car. Hard to imagine there aren't a list of restrictions as long as your arm.

I don't know guys, they put U joints in semi trucks and cement mixers. I had a Ford Fiesta that once popped a CV joint. I thought the main reason auto manufactures went to CV's instead of U joints is they are smoother. While it may have been proven that of the commonly availble units for a Z, the CV's hold up better than U joints, I think you can throw that idea out the window when you start talking about other sizes of U joints.

You guys ought to open your own infomercial channel

The amount of noise will vary with the condition of the diff. The mount on my 240 was so loud I almost got sick after 10 minutes on the highway. Still have the mount in my shed. Cracking of the crossmember is something that happens over a period of time.

Lighting strikes are more common than people think. You might consider getting a whole house surge protector. It installs right in the breaker panel. You still will need surge protectors on the plugs of all sensitive electronics. This includes things like modern washers and dryers. A Sears tech warned me the computer boards in my units are $350 EACH. Lighting even took out the controllers on my ceiling fans. Talk about a PITA. Modems and phone lines are a different animal. They need the input lines protected. althougth most are cheap enough that it is not a big deal if you need to replace them.

What Jon said. Sounds like you are not running hot enough. Play with turning the heat wayyy up and adjust the wire speed to match. As for gas, my welder has a non-adjustable flow regulator. I would leave yours at the stock setting until you get much more experienced. The weld definitely makes a different sound when the gas is off or runs out. I have read welding texts that recommend occasionally running a bead with the gas off just so you get use to reconginzing the sound of a weld with no gas. It is easy to forget to turn on the gas, and that makes for bad welds. The other trick is to not move too slow. That can cause you to build the weld on top of the filler metal and not get penetration. Get some scrap metal, turn the heat up and practice some welds moving the bead quickly. If you are hot enough, especially with thick metal, then you don't need to work the puddle by moving the arc in circles. Just nice, fast, straight motion. Also how do you know your getting great penetration? Have you cut welds in half to inspect them? Or are you getting some puddling on the back side of the metal?

Kind of hard to go wrong at that price. The in line 6's are great motors. They make a Z car a blast to drive. But more power is always better. that car would be a great V8 candidate. Make sure you get rid of the solid front diff mount. When you do that inspect the cross piece for cracks. Rust in the doglegs is one of the first place Z cars get it. How old is the paint? If it is a few years old then you are probably looking at all the rust the car has. If the paint is just a year or so old, then it could be covering up a lot. Have to second what cpt jack said about no heat and a harness on a street car, although I don't agree with his chassis twist assesment. The car has a welded 6 point bar. Put in a triangulated strut bar and it should be good to 500 HP. No heat and no AC also means no defroster. Just be prepared to sit on the side of the road if you get caught in weather somewhere. I am not sure I would drive that car on the street, not with out a lot of interior changes. If for no other reason than I like being able to talk my way out of tickets. As soon as a cop sees that interior he is going to stop talking and start writing.

Nissan added a chin pan on the early 240 to prevent turbulence underneath the car from disrupting flow through the radiator. Adding a chin pan and a good air dam might help. And like said earlier, seal the areas around the side of the radiator to force air through the rad.

When does it overheat, while driving or sitting still?

I almost posted that in my last post but wasn't sure if it applied to Datsun alternators. I know on the alternators used with LS motors you have to have either a 500 ohm (I think) resisitor or a light bulb in the sense wire line or it will burn up the alternator. Thus the charge light is perfect for the task. Can't use an LED, it has to have some resistance like a bulb does.

I agree with what you say. The internal regulator will try to maintain the proper voltage at whatever point in the system the sense wire is hooked up. If that is the alternator output, you will get the 14.5 v there. If a heavy load is placed on the alternator, the current flow will cause a voltage drop across the alternator wire. The regulator will keep the alt output at 14.5 v, but the rest of the system might now be operating at 12 or even 10 volts.