Pop N Wood

The JTR manual has pictures. They also say it should be stick welded, not MIG welded, using a specific alloy of welding rod. I have seen posts were people jam a bolt in between the spider gears and weld that to everything.

I thought the point of rivets was to allow some flex between the two pieces. Doesn't seem like what you should be after.

You're not trying very hard. Here first click on this link and read item #2 http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=93&a=2 Next GO TO THE TWO SECTIONS I POINTED YOU TO, CLICK ON THE LINKS THAT SAY ELECTRICAL DIAGRAMS IN THE TITLE and they will give you what you are looking for.

Yeah, go the FAQ section or check out the stickies in the electrical section

Take it back to the shop that put in the AFM and tell them to fix their work.

He must be smoking the same stuff I am because my experience has always be exactly the opposite. How is air in the line going to hold pressure? Like Rags says, how bad? How hard is it to turn the wheels by hand? And what happened that you all of the sudden starting noticing this? Did you do brake work or all of the sudden started having problems coasting down hill?

This is pretty cool. Not complaining or anything, nothing but kudos, but it would be nice to see the weight of the LS6 without trans.

The only apples I care about are going around a corner as fast as I can. Your statement makes no sense. Besides, just to be difficult, a turbo charged car with an air to water intercooler doesn't have to have piping. That is the reason some people build their cars that way. Well not quite correct. Filling the reservoir is function of mass flow rate. And once you start thinking mass flow rate, then you need to ask yourself what you think you mean by CFM. Did you look up Bernoulli's equation yet?

Well you sure have a drop dead gorgeous car, whereas I have never built a turbo motor. So a good point of reference for me. 26 psi seems like a lot of boost, too. Do you any type of pop off valve to relieve intake pressure on quick down throttle?

Use diesel fuel/kerosene to clean stuff instead of gas. Not anywhere near as volatile.

This was the point I was after. You cannot compute flow velocity without knowing the pressure and temperature of the air. Bernoulli's equation will tell you how to get the correct number. It will also tell you the flow velocity varies continuously in the intake track because pressure and temperature are not the same at any point in the intake track. So in that sense KTM's calculations don't tell you anything about what an extra 100+ cubic inches of intake piping will do to the motor. What was confusing me is why everyone is so keyed into flow velocity. I am not sure what you think that is telling you. As for lag, if the only way you use the throttle is to mash it to the floor at the start of the run and to let off again at the end of a quarter mile, then you guys are right. Once the turbo spools up and the motor is at full power than that extra length of pipe probably doesn't matter. But if you actually try to use the throttle and engine power to negotiate the car through a turn, then I simply cannot believe that increasing the volume of the intake plumbing by an amount almost equal to the engine displacement won't be noticeable. Think of the intake plumbing as a storage reservoir on an air compressor. The larger it is, the longer it is going to take to pressurize, the more stored energy it will contain, and thus the longer it is going to take to depressurize. None of those things will contribute positively to throttle response.

Bigger wheels are usually heavier and are usually run with a lower profile tire. It is the lack of a tire sidewall that will make the ride harder and be harder on the chassis. Heavier wheels are bad for performance in many different ways. But beyond that concentrate on the tires. Your shocks and suspension come into play here. So a low profile tire with stiff shocks and springs will make the car less street friendly, regardless of wheel diameter.

I would be afraid to touch it. But it would seem like as long as you are not in a hurry you could try to see if the check will cash. Talk to your own bank. Maybe you can open a new account and deposit it, then wait 2 MONTHS to make sure nothing comes back bad on it. If it works, then ship the car. I don't think the bank it is written on tells you anything. Doesn't really matter who you steal a check from.

I wouldn't call an L26 a turd. They are nice motors. Those webers are pretty good carbs. They have a lot of built in tuning capability. I ran them for 15 years after my SU's needed new throttle shafts. They sure have a lot more adjustments than the SU's did. IMO the only real problem with them on a Z car is the way they have to fit on the intake manifold. That J bend is a compromise at best. In that respect I wish I had rebuilt the SU's , but no regrets. People have a way of going to the extreme on this site. Like if it won't get you into the 10's it's not worth doing. Just do the classic hot rod approach of headers and maybe a cam. Maybe an electronic ignition, or at least a module to replace the points. The ignition you can probably get used for pretty cheap.

I saw a new one just yesterday. I like what they did to it.

The company server blocks all myspace links, but HybrdZ just keeps a comin on in.

They are also fully legal in third world countries. I guess only rich people are not allowed to deplete the ozone.

My company calls it intellectual property. My company goes one step further and says any idea I have at any time and under any circumstances while an employee of the company belongs to the company. So say while doing the little woman I come up with the idea for an improved dildo I can strap to my chin, I need to ask the comany if they want it before I can try to market it. Yeah right.....

That was quick. That is one of the more tasteful stripes I have seen on a Z. Brings out the lines well. A BRE front spoiler is an absolutely classic Z car look. I have that same airdamn but they always make the front look too long and blockish when compared to the sweep under look of a clean Z front end. But that look sucks aerodynamically, so the BRE front spook is a great solution. I think black or dark grey rear panel would look excellent. Better yet, with those colors, a carbon fiber rear panel and bumpers would be an extremely sharp look.

Headers and a cam or the two most traditional ways to more HP. You can't go too crazy with the cam though or you could quickly lose good street manners. If you combine that with headwork, maybe even a bump in compression, then that is as far as I would go with the whole "budget" idea. The cam and compression will have smog implications if that is an issue where you live. A draw through carb turbo system will run into some $$ pretty quickly. May not seem like it at first but costs have a way of escalating once you get into a project like that.

Just buy nuts at the same time you buy the bolts and it won't matter. You can even get some nylon lock nuts.

Mopar? Has anyone on here done a pontiac motor swap? Would be pretty cool from that aspect. But I think you are going to find that common wisdom says to do a tried and true Chevy swap. That swap has been pretty well worked through. Anything you come up against someone on here will have a solution for. The aftermarket support for the chevy motor is also more extensive and cheaper. You will probably be dollars ahead with the chevy swap, but wait and see what some of the others say about the pontiac.

LOL Sometimes if you just pay attention to the little details the big problems never happen.

The bolt pattern isn't identical. There it one missing bolt boss in the block around I think the 1 o'clock position. But, yeah, I am using a traditional SBC bellhousing to bolt the TKO to my LS2 motor. LS1 240Z is talking about getting a complete truck motor for a grand. That is probably reasonable. What he constantly fails to mention is the thousands of dollars of changes that need to be made to the truck motor to get them to work in a Z car. Especially if you want a manual transmission. There is a member currently putting a 5.3 in his Z. Find his recent thread to get a taste for the changes needed to make one fit.

What kind of chassis stiffening are you running with those spring rates? Also I assume you have camber plates and possibly adjustable control arms front and back? How well do you think those shocks would work ona a more stree opriented car with 225# springs and otherwise stock suspension stuff?