Pop N Wood

All of my insulation was pretty much falling apart when I pulled it out. I don't plan on putting it back. I also pulled up all the tar from the footwells of the car. That is not going back either. I am not so worried about the heat as much as the cold in winter. As for noise, I guess I will need to get it running to tell. An easy enough thing to put off and fix later if need be. I do have a layer of carpet pad underneath the carpet. I got the stuff from a dumpster behind a carpet store. I use velcro at either end to hold the carpet in place. It is easy to take out at the autocross. There have been quite a number of articles on sound deadening stuff. From what I read there is a huge difference in how the different brands age. Apparanetly the cheap stuff can fall apart in short order. You may want to look up some of the old posts before you invest in dynamat or the like.

About half way down on the left side http://www.zhome.com I have seen people pay more for vehicles that came in baskets. Try and talk him down. It is hard selling a non running car so use that to your advantage. You can probably get a complete running L6 motor for $300 from someone on this site. I will sell you one with an attached 5 speed for that. Z car blocks often go 250K miles without needing more than a hone on rebuild. So don't let the idea of not being able to bore it out again discourage you.

I replaced the SU's on my 70 240 with dual webers cause it was cheaper than trying to rebuild the SU's. You didn't say wether it was dual downdraft webers or triple sidedraft carbs. If it is triple webers they could have gone in as a performance upgrade. Dual webers might have gone in with the same idea in mind. Maybe he just thought they would be better carbs and/or got a deal on them. If I were you I wouldn't worry too much about the motor. They can be rebuilt cheaply enough. It is the "no rust" statement that should concern you. Fixing rust is time consuming and expensive. A truely rust free 240 Z, even with a blown motor, can go for $3k to $5K in your area. Look at a running motor as a perk. You are going to need to drain the gas and change the oil before you try to start it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and turn the engine by hand a few times too. Find out how it has been stored. In a closed garage our out in the elements. That would mean more to me than a running motor.

There is more to it than just insulating the engine. Your approach will just cause detonation. You need to give the hot gasses time to expand to convert the maximum amount of heat energy into mechanical energy. Marine diesels can hit 50% efficiency. But they only turn at like 100 RPM and have bores and cylinders so large they effectively build the ship around the engine. They are also designed to run at full throttle all the time. Running an engine at part throttle is part of what kills the efficiency.

I have always heard it called compression braking. Leaving it in gear and using the engine to slow a vehicle is really not that uncommon. Truck drivers do it all the time. A number of engines are even fitted with compression releases to allow the engine to coast with the motor still in gear. I once had a dirt bike with a compression release. And the gravel trucks driving behind my house definitely use compression braking when rolling up to the traffic light. Flipping loud

I just might be slow today but I don't see a price. The t56 for the LT1/first gen motors is different than the LS motors. make sure you get the right one.

Most articles say you want 3 to 5 degrees of static alignment. So figure the total offset can't be more than say 7% of your driveshaft length (i.e. 0.07*DSLength). That works out to 4 degrees of driveshaft angle.

Pretty sure the JCI mounts are offset to the US passenger's side. So if the GM diff is offset to that side you should be good. You also know the diff and motor don't have to be centered on each other to be OK. As long as they are parallel and the total offset (left right plus up down) is within reason there will be minimal vibration.

Looks like you have a few choices for on base garages http://www.fortbraggmwr.com/autoskills/autoskills.htm

Hopefully someone will chime in with price. I am just like you and always do my own work, so I have no idea either. but want to second what myplasticegg said. Every Navy base I was ever stationed at had a well equiped auto hobby garage. I swapped out a trans in one many moons ago.

Buddy of mine bought a chevy Trailblazer SS with the 6.0L motor. The engine computer tells you when to change the oil based upon the way you drive. He got 12K miles on the initial oil change.

Yes, you need to flip the front mount around when swapping from an r180 to the R200.

We have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 85K miles. No real problems. Once drove across the state of Ohio with the cruise control set at 94 mph and kids watching videos in the back. They are very nice and very comfortable vehicles. The thing does well in the snow, but winters here are fairly mild. They do have soft suspension and an unbelievable amount of rubber between the chassis and the body. Definitely no sports car. Will probably buy a new minivan next year. The Toyota and Honda are on the top of the list. Don't see much difference between the two of them. They both have the same size motor, same gas mileage, same transmissions, many of the same options and about the same reputation. Guess I will buy whichever gives me the better deal. SUV's make no real sense to me when you have kids. Sliding doors are a godsend to avoid having to scream at your kids about door dings. It is really nice to be able to lean down to strap in a kid rather than reach up to the car seat like you do with an SUV. Especially if your wife is not very tall. And unlike an SUV the third row seat is accessible even to adults without anyone having to get up. This is even true with a kid seat strapped in. I think most SUV's need to remove the kids seat to slide the middle row forward for third row access. I have known several people who traded in SUV's for the reasons above. Plus the death rates in minivans are markedly better than the average SUV or body on frame van. And never buy the factory DVD or navigation systems. Check out Best Buy and save yourself several thousand dollars.

That looks solid enough. Looks like something I would make, less dados here and there I would definitely add some fore-aft gussets like roostmonkey said. 3/8 plywood would be ideal. Maybe a cross piece connecting the front and back legs down at the floor. Screws always feel tight at first but vibration can really loosen a non-dado joint in a hurry. Looks a little nose heavy too. maybe nail it to an 8' board running directly underneath the engine to increase the front to back footprint.

You use the words "should" and "probably" alot. Pretty big assumptions. I know I could tell when my shifter boot was bad by the cold air blowing up along the shifter. But that probably shouldn't cause exhaust to swirl under the car and possibly into the cabin. Probably shouldn't, I would guess. And even if it did, I imagine you should probably most likely get sick, I should think, long before you have the possiblity of passing out. BTW, don't take the meter suggestion literally. Although they do have audible alarms. It probably isn't a bad idea.

It is the biggest, heaviest, most expensive and takes the most work to install, but "best" is subjective. Also I am not sure what the advantage of a short nose R200 would be over the standard R200.

I don't like ABS because it is just one more expensive thing to break.

While you are at radio shack, pick up a battery powered carbon monoxide meter and install that in your car. There is a reason safety inspections require solid piping all the way out the back of the car.

Dirty battery posts and/or bad grounds.

"thirty over" implies thousands at the end. No misnomer there. Long Colt is a colloquialism used to distinguish it from a 45 ACP round. 45 Colt is potentially ambiguous. I don't see the problem with word harmonics either. Could just as easily use the phrase octave suppression device. But then I have often been accused of being argumentative.

Hood clearance could be an issue.....

You can get a brand new TKO for under $2K. It will bolt up just like a Muncie. They also make aftermarket T56's that will fit where a Muncie use to. http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/6_speed.html

An LS motor can easily be positioned behind the rack.

The stock NGK plugs should work fine. If they don't, then my guess is something got hooked back up wrong. Look for a loose vacuum hose or mixed up plug wires. Maybe a little better description of how the car is running. Does it not want to idle, won't start, back fire, black smoke, missing under accel, wont rev past 3000 RPM?

Why isn't it true?