Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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...or stock cast iron truck manifolds. It appears the stock manifolds will fit...
g
Is anyone running stock truck manifolds? Anyone know if they fit for sure? Just curious if you have tried them on an LS motor sitting in the engine bay.
I know on my L6 it was the headers that made the nice glub glub idle sound and droned at cruise speed. So it would make sense that stock type manifolds would be the first step to avoiding the droning sound.
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You're going to need a good chunk of that $2K just to do the swap.....
Exhaust, cooling, fuel pump, wiring, reprogramming. Stuff adds up.
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That would be a huge help if you dont mind!
- Greg -
The cleanest pic I have is with the engine out. This thing sits just below the coil. That bottom nipple goes to the small nipple Y'd off the crankcase vent. The top one went I believe to the back of the stock air cleaner. But since I switched to the dual webers some 15 years ago that is coming from memory.
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I would concur with all above. I am running the Arizona Z Car 13" - 6 piston setup on one of my cars. And I love them.
A sucessfull system should create a harmony between the componets, create balance, and offer predictable function. This end product is a result of proper engineering, material knowledge, and testing. When buying a system do your homework and go with a proven design.
When mixing and matching on your own be prepared for alot of testing and changing.
Aren't the bigger 6 piston calipers and 13 inch rotors a $650 option with the AZC front brake kit?
Guess they don't offer any additional braking power since AZC only offers a single brake kit for the rear.
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Mike,
Have you verified that your tach was working before the swap? This is the only thing I can think off. I didn't go this route because of this reason. For the price of buying the converter and recalibrate the tach I could have bought the autometer gauges and it's a direct hook up. It worked great in my friend's swap. I might do the same on my Ls1 swap soon too. Good luck
Vinh
By converter do you mean the speedo converter?
I thought the only thing required to "recalibrate" the tach was to turn one adjustment screw to the end of it's travel. At least that is what the JTR manual says, is it different for LS motors?
Also make sure you have a 280 tach and not a 240 tach, since the 240 units are current activated and, as per the JTR manual, will not work with the more modern tach drives (which I believe are voltage activated).
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The problem isn't the brakes. The problem was the longer wheel studs and spacers.
I did the upgrade and tried to make them work with the stock steel wheels. I got close by doing some light grinding on the inside of the wheels and on some of the caliper bumps. When this didn't quite get it done, I got some 1/2 inch spacers (you shouldn't have needed 1 inch) but realized the spacers were going to require longer studs. Not liking the sounds of this I just gave up and just went to my 15 inch wheels. They clear fine.
Really, any significant brake upgrade is going to require larger diameter wheels anyway, so I don't think it is fair to blame this one on the 4x4 swap.
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Aha! That explains the 5/16" barb on my crankcase vent tube! So are the three lines just teed together or should there be a valve?
- Greg -
Yeah, there should be a vacuum operated valve that T's the tank line to one place or the other. It was mounted to the fender right where the current vent line ends. I could get you pics if you are really interested.
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I bought a summit protorque starter for my LS2 and noticed the same. The bendix can only push the starter gear out far enough to put the end of the gear about half way into the flywheel teeth. I have yet to power up the starter, so I don't know if this will cause a problem. But if you are having problems, then it is increasing my worry that I will too.
Shims will not fix this problem because they move the starter centerline away from the crank centerline. In this case it looks like the starter needs to be moved farther backwards. Witht he LS starter, the aluminum block they put the mounting bolts through is moved forward about 1/8th of an inch from the back of the block. In my case it looks like that 1/8 inch offset would make all the difference in the gear engagement.
Maybe we both need to give Summit a call.
Plus for the LS engines the electrical lugs are on the back side of the starter next to the engine. This looks like a major PITA since I will most likely have to drop the starter to gain access.
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Are you sure about this? Why would you run a vacuum line to the float bowl vents?
Not vacuum, just clean air. Don't need to suck dirt into the carbs. With K&N filters you could have tapped your own fitting into the air cleaner pan.
The tank vent is an emissions thing. It is suppose to vent into the intake when the engine is running and to the crankcase when the engine is off. At least that was the way my 70 was plumbed. Newer cars replace the crankcase vent with a charcoal canister. You don't want to completely block off the vent line to the tank. But you could cut it off back by the differential if you want to save that extra half pound of tubing.
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Looks good to me. sorry I didn't get any pics to you, I came down with a nasty cold and haven't worked on the car for a few days.
Mike
Hope you feel better. My plant was shut down all last week and I got sick on Tuesday. Missed a whole week of 50° weather where I could have worked on the Z.
thanks for the idear though.
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Made my own adaptor
Drilled out the stock block heater plug using a 3/4 step drill. Then tapped a 1/2 NPT threads into the stock plug (McMaster Carr part number 2525A115), fit a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer bushing (McMaster Carr # 50785K264), then to a Sunpro M16x1.5 to 3/8 matrix adaptor
I had to drill out the inside of the metric adaptor to get the stock temp sensor to fit. If I do it again I will do this with a hand file rather than drill since I didn't perfectly center the step sholder inside the metric piece. Hopefully there will be no leaks.
I will probably solder the reducer to the stock plug and use some type of conductive sealant on the metric adaptor to bushing joint. Need good electrical contact for the sensor to work.
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Well bump if nothing else.
I remember reading something with the alternator feeding back if a diode isn't wired into the circuit properly. Hopefully someone with a more complete understanding will chime in, otherwise a search should turn up this problem.
Since I AM NOT AT WORK, I got bored and did a search for you. cozy Cole posted something about what I was thinking
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113153&highlight=feedback
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113331&highlight=diode+running
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Pop, two out of three's not bad. Thirsty daily drivers, and our wagon weighs in at 5000 pounds.
But that is with a 'unibody' (only a front subframe); Chrysler products have been unibody since about 1960... I know my 63 Pymouth was unibody, and our 57 wagon wasn't.
<>
Now that you mention it my 69 Camaro had a "unibody" rear half also. But not exactly optimized for light weight.
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Here are some 'props' to cars I would be interested in:
240hokes
I thought you said you didn't want another project car
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Recently one of the battery leads was disconnected while the engine was running in an attempt to shut down the engine.
Disconnecting the battery won't stop a running engine. Not until the disconnected battery cable touches metal and shorts out the electrical system. At which point it will cause a voltage surge possibly frying all kinds of electrical stuff.
I know all of this first hand.
Let's just say if you ever go hiking in the back country, make absolutely certain your headlights are off when you park. Especially when the trail head is 40 miles from anything. Otherwise you may have to temporarily borrow a battery from another vehicle.
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The gasless MIGs will work on body panels if you know what you are doing and take your time.
Trouble is, if you are new to welding you will spend the majority of your time wondering whether your crappy welds are because of you or your cheap machine. That and inhaling all the flux core smoke will make you want to give up in short order.
I say spend the extra $$ to get a gas kit. Save the flux core for welding outside where wind makes a sheilding gas unusable.
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Looks like a steal for that price.
I can save you some reading on the headers. There is no one size fits all solution for long tube headers and the JTR position. If you want long tubes, either keep it in the Scarab position like it is now, or switch to the MSA set up. If you go JTR you are looking at shorties or customizing your own long tubes.
Like mentioned above, you will essentially be doing a new, from the ground up swap to shift to the JTR position. For example, JTR will mean switching from a mechanical to electric fuel pump. Then there is the driveshaft, exhaust, shift linkage, maybe clutch linkage, radiator fan....
Either way you should consider moving the fuel and brake lines away from the headers.
If you get a chance, I would be interested to see what the shift linkage looks like on that 4 speed. The driving factor in the JTR kit was to get the shifter to come out of the stock hole.
You should invest $40 and get the JTR manual. All of the info is probably spread about this site in one post or the other, but it will help you immensely in planning what you want to do with this car to read the JTR book.
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I can see why he is selling it.
Looks like he has put a ton of work into it and it is nowhere near done.
Plus he ignored all the important parts. Makes me wonder about the craftsmanship on what was done.
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Our 72 Chrysler wagon with a 440 gets between 10 and 14mpg; generally towards the lower end of the range.
<>
I was going to say. Big blocks are not know for their fuel mileage. I would have guessed 12. Those old cars are heavier than they look. No unibody, heavy frames, thick sheet metal and no plastic.
That particular car needs a new top.
You might also have trouble getting parts for something that old. Nissan supports the old Z's better than most other manufactures.
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You need the bigger MC to flow enough volume to work the front brakes.
There was a recent post on this where people with the 4x4 fronts could not get proper front to rear bias. People were complaining of this even with the rear disc upgrades.
Try completely removing your bias valve and run the rears straight.
I assume you try pumping the brakes, or are the fronts too lock prone even for that?
There was another recent thread where a member called zcarnut commented that power boosters are matched to the braking capacities of the car, and that too big of a brake booster will make it hard to modulate the brake feel. Maybe a smaller diameter booster, like off a 160 or 240 would help? I would get some more opinions before I would try the smaller booster because I have never heard of anyone taking that route before.
The final option is dual master cylinders and no booster. You probably don't want to go to that extreme for a street car, but it will almost certainly give you enough flexibility to dial in the brakes.
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I started out using cut off wheels on the spot welds, then I bought this $11 bit
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ap1721.html
and this $13 spot weld cutter
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/blr13224.html
The bit works perfectly to completely remove the spot weld flush to the bottom panel. The cutter leaves a button, but supposedly the button can be used to realign the panel if you are reattaching a repaired panel. It also works as a plug weld cutter to cut perfect holes in new sheet metal. It comes in several different diameters.
I find the $11 money well spent when compared to the cut off wheel approach. Massively faster and more accurate.
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Ahh. Thanks for the tip. There is a water jacket plug for an engine heater there. I will pull that out and see what type of adapters I can buy to modify. Maybe do the JTR trick and drill and tap a 1/8 NPT.
Trouble is John doesn't sell his "vital fuilds" kit unless you buy his mounts. How did the guys who aren't using JCI mounts get their water temp guage to work? make their own adapter?
ECM pins won't do me any good since I am carburated. I may end up using a radiator probe, since it doesn't look like the aftermarket has caught up with the LS sized temp switches yet. Bummer too since a temp probe could be inserted in both heads.
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Can anyone help me figure out how to make the stock 240 temp guage work with an LS engine?
Surely someone must have done it, but the search tool is not being helpful.
Also, has anyone found an electric fan controller that works with the LS heads? The M12x1.5 opening is an odd duck at best.
Thanks.
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Arizona Z car's aluminum bar will get you close. Just need to replace his rubber mounts with some aluminum pieces
Thirsty daily drivers, and our wagon weighs in at 5000 pounds.
would early SU's work on an L28
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I know the early 240 SU's are a pretty popular upgrade for the 260's with the flat tops. There is no reason why they shouldn't work with a 280 or even 3.1 stroker.
If it won't run with the choke off then you might have a vacuum leak that the choke is masking.