Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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The TKO is just an upgraded tr-3550. They are the same size.
This link says what needs to be done to put a TKO behind a 428 Cobra Jet in an early Mustang. Modified crossmember and some tunnel clearance.
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Hooker makes a muffler with dual inlets and a single outlet. That is how I plan to run duals and still use a single muffler in the stock location.
We will see
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Then the next question you have to ask is why did the fluid leak out?
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You can get stainless MIG wire cheaply at any welding store. Hell, even Home Depot has it. Using that and Argon-CO2 gas and it is just like welding mild steel.
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Are you sure it is leaking and you didn't just spill some fluid?
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TKO's are suppose to be good to 600 ft-lbs. They fit behind a 302. Can they be made to fit a BB?
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Man, I don't know. It says shell. Does it even have and engine and transmission?
Would have to check it out very carefully before shelling out that kind of money.
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I used a pump to pump the fluid out of the MC... the stuff that was in there is likely 20 years old, really nasty with little floaty bits in it.
My hose was pretty big, so I don't think I let the air get down in to the lines, but maybe it got trapped in the MC somewhere.
I'm gonna check and seal my fittings with teflon and start over with the MC.
Thanks
No teflon. They are compression fittings. If the fluid is getting to the threads then they have already failed. The seal occurs where the tapered part hits the flare of the brake line/fitting.
If you are still getting air after having flushed a half liter of fluid, then my guess is you have a loose fitting. Also, when you open the bleed valve, turn it back down with your fingers until it just starts to touch. That way air will not be sucked back in through the threads of the bleed valve.
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Some interesting info:
Ohio State made 84 yards
Ohio State has an 0-8 record in bowl games against SEC
Anyway, great game.
82 yards...
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Pop N Wood
It is the end of the third quarter, Monday night.
It appears that "Smash Mouth" Football (against softies)
is synonymous with "Brokeback" Football
Could this be the undefeated best?
It does look like they know how to train Coaches though, Thanks
Yeah, I had that one coming.
I never would have predicted that outcome and I would have put money up against anyone who did.
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What is the advantage to a carbed LS2 ? Cheaper ? Easier ?
For me personally it is just because I wanted one. A little more consistent with the era of my 240. Plus I fool with computers all day and wanted something more primeval as a hobby.
As for real advantages, for a crate motor with all new parts it is cheaper. The fuel injection stuff can get expensive if you buy it piece by piece. If had gotten a used, pull out motor then I would have stayed FI.
From a performance standpoint, this engine is rated at about 40 more HP than the same LS2 crate motor with a FI top end. It also has more torque throughout the band. Not sure if that is due to the open plenum intake manifold or just a more performance and less emissions oriented tune of the carb vs. the basically stock FI. But that is how GM rated them to sell them.
Also with the carb it is somewhat easier since I can keep the stock tank, all the stock gauges and there is less wiring. Should be a really clean and simple looking install when done.
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Well, if you do a search on the subject you will find at least a half dozen members who have damaged their cars trying to use a line lock as a parking brake.
It is a pretty good anti-theft device, or good for doing rear wheel burnouts, but as for a parking brake just say no.
The proportioning valve can be mounted in the engine bay since once it is set, you shouldn't have to keep readjusting it.
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POp, I'm reasonably close by and have a bunch of little stuff left over from my LS1 stuff. Let me know if you find you're missing anything... I know I've got a set of black valve cover covers you can have, but they do say LS1 on them...Also got a lot of other odds and ends, like a new set of exhaust manifold gaskets from GM and a new balancer in the box.
Mike
That's a kind offer. But I do have an LS2. Amazing how different everything gets when it is first an LS2 motor and second a Corvette. Probably means the balancer won't work either.
I am pretty sure I have everything. Just need to start cobbling everything together. Will probably order the driveshaft this week or next.
Got the engine mounted with the S&P bisquits and the energy suspension tranny mount. That damn thing is solid! Can't get it to wiggle shaking it by hand. Maybe 400+ ft-lbs of torque will get it to bend over.
Thanks for all the compliments. The tranny mount seemed like more work than it needed to be. But once I got going it was kind of fun bending and shaping the steel. An alternator mount is next, then fuel lines, brake lines, radiator, fan switch, wiring, throttle cable, maybe move hood latch .....
Long list.
At least the wife is mad at me so good excuse for a lot of garage time.
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My guess is drunk driving.
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http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm
And of course parts america and midway auto for generic parts.
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Finally got the engine mounts sorted out. The last piece was the trans crossmember. Not 100% sure I won't redo it, especially once I get around to doing subframe connectors. But this set up should allow me to hook the crossmember into the subframe connectors.
That energy suspension mount sure looks sweet. diff alignment came out really good. the engine is point down just ever so slightly more than the diff is pointed up. Should equalize once under torque. There is enough room to add shims/washers under the urethane mount if need be.
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You can't go to a local body shop supply store? Any place that sells auto paint should have prep material. Ospho.
Or how about the internet? Amazon carries it, although it is shipped through Midway auto.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver/dp/B0002JN204
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page 102 of the Black Dragon Auto. You won't like the price.
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0102.html
Two other options for new parts
And for used parts
The internet is your friend.
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That is interesting
Pretty damn big carb for a 283
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Don't need no books to tell me how to do dat.
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I think one is suppose to be a goesin and the other a goesout. So you would draw a suction on the valve cover vent and put a fresh air inlet on the crankcase vent.
Here is another option I learned about while poking around LS1 tech
You weld the bungs in on the down stream side of your turbo downpipes and hook in that whistle looking pipe. Put the breathers in the valve covers and hook a hose between the breather and the exhaust pipe using the check valve. The exhaust velocity then draws a vacuum on the pipe and sucks all the crankcase nastiness into the exhaust rather than the intake manifold.
Apparantly these things work pretty good, especially with turbos. Do a search on LS1tech.com and read the posts from guys who are actually running them.
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If you do a search, and if the search engine is feeling generous (a HUGE if), you might find a thread where someone posts the Mc Master Carr part number for generic weatherstripping that works for Z doors. It will save you big bucks over a kit.
Also beware of cheap kits. Not all of them fit properly. I wouldn't buy a set unless you read a post where someone said that specific brand worked for them.
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Are you sure about that? I would give it some thought.
Well, maybe I was being too subtle. You were stating how well engineered and matched the AZC set up was. If it is so well balanced with the 4 pistion, 12.2 inch front brakes, how can it possibly be balanced with the larger stuff up front and the same rear brakes? Unless, of course, the bigger front brakes have no more stopping power than the smaller ones. So either one of those two systems is an unbalanced, mixed bag of catalog parts or "the option" just adds $650 of bling.
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PCV catch cans are a pretty common addition to GM LS motors. Here is a popular version from LS1tech.com
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589855&page=1&pp=20
And here is the $40 Arkansas special
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=563211
How to power wash a Z
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I woould have been afraid to knock too much dirt and rust off with that power washer.
It might have been the only thing holding that old car together.