Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I'm more curious about the alt on this one. Where did you get a 140A alt and how much did it cost? Details please!
Most modern cars have alternators in the 140 amp range. Stock GM alternators for LS motors are I think 108 amps or 140 amp, depending upon model. My minivan has a 140 amp alternator.
Modern electronics suck a lot of juice.
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Am I confused or did you guys install breakers/fusible links in line to your starter?
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The fact is not much is being done to help these people, no matter what agency/political party is running the show
.Well, no, unfortunately this is not a fact. In fact, your statement is quite untrue. The fact is we will spend somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 BILLION to 300 BILLION dollars cleaning up after Katrina. That is more than the cost of Iraq and Afganistan combined.
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/9281409/
You heart is in the right place but you need to do a little research.
Disaster relief spending is absolutely out of control in this country. Look up the trend in disaster declarations in the last half century. The fact is there is only so much more we can afford to do. Reality sucks sometimes, but this is simply not the governments problem to solve.
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I went with an LS motor because I wanted 400-450 HP and the LS motor seemed the cheapest way to get there with an engine that is still considered streetable. The stock LS heads flow extremely well. To get the same level of flow with the first gen motors generally means aftermarket heads ($$) and a bigger cam. From what people here have told me, getting 450 HP out of a first gen is easy to do, but the motor may not idle like a stocker. That affects gas mileage directly.
On the down side, prices on used LS motors have gone through the roof in the last year or two.
On the other hands the LT1 motors are practically free and do deliver an excellent daily driver.
As for gas mileage, when it comes to out of pocket costs there really isn't a big difference between 15 mpg and 25 mpg. You need to figure out how much of a premium you are willing to pay for an LS motor to get some idea of just how much gas you will need to buy to make up the difference. When the right foot syndrome is considered, I can't see the mileage being a big issue one way or the other.
And yes, you can carb an LS motor. Get on Summit Racing or Jegs and look up the intake manifold and spark controller GM makes for the LS motors. You can even get a distributor if that is important to you.
I bought a carbed LS2 crate motor directly from a local chevy dealer. It is rated at 446 HP right out of the box. Should be able to get in excess of 500 HP with just a cam and some valve springs. Hood clearance with the carbed motor is an issue, but not an insurmountable one. I was forced to build my own mounts because of my transmission choice. But once I move the hood latch to the right I should be able to mount a standard drop base 14 inch air cleaner. If I could leave the hood latch where it is if I go with a drop base cleaner that is also offset to clear HEI distributors (or a 12inch or less diameter).
One word of caution, I think the John's cars LS mounting kit mounts the engine higher and farther forward then where mine ended up. I did add some 3/8 inch spacers to the front cross member (ala JTR) to get a little more hood clearance. I think JTR recommended something over a half inch so there is still clearance to be gained there. Only problem is the crossmember spacers may not be compatible with the JCI mounts.
IMO you can't go wrong no matter whichever engine you choose. Whatever you do, go with a standard kit (JTR for first gen or JCI for LS motors) and vastly simplify your swap. Some people think the JCI kit is overpriced for what it gives you. But what they may not be recognizing is the amount of time the kit will save since you know the engine will be positioned right the first time you put in the motor.
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All I can say is McMaster Carr. I ordered the helicoil stuff from the earlier link and fixed the engine up right. Ordered the stuff on a Monday evening and it was waiting at my door when I got home from work the next day. McMaster Carr has a table showing the metric-SAE grade conversion listed on their site.
About the only thing I did differently from the guy on the LS1tech link is I got longer socket headed cap screws than he did and used a 3/8 inch punch to snap off the helicoil tang. You don't need the special $70 tool McMaster Carr sells for that. I also ordered metric bolts with the optional blue tint to distinguish them from SAE bolts.
So word to the wise, the metric and SAE bellhousing bolts are almost indistinquishable from each other with out using a pitch guage, and if you have to use more than just your fingers to start the bolt, back off and see what is wrong.
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My wife got me a new wedding ring. Believe me, the fact she still wants to get me one beats any gift any one else has posted so far.
4th ring and counting. I got a tattoo after the third one, but still like to see that shiny piece of metal. This one is stainless steel! You can do that sort of thing with a 4th ring.
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This site says around 115-130 pounds for the T56.
http://www.standardtransmission.com/BW_T-56.html
But kind of have to look at the whole package. The clutch assembly for the t56 is pretty heavy. Might be around 160# for the tranny, clutch, throw out assembly and fluids.
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Is sugar corrosive LOL?
Actually I think it is corrosive. There was a thread recently where someone used a vat of molasses to derust an engine block.
Plus with sugar all over your yard could lead to cockroaches
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I tried the platinums in my Z and it didn't like them either. NGK's are all that is needed. Anything else does seem like a waste of time for a Z.
But i have known other people with different cars that swear by the platinum ones. My minivan takes iridium plugs. Can't wait to see what a set of those cost.
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I saw a Transfer switch at Homers for $300, but don't have time for it right now. So I want to know more about the wiring to the dryer outlet.
You can’t legally hook it up yourself anyway. Plus the way those thing are generally wired requires you to pull the circuits (i.e. breakers) you want to power out of your main panel and put them into the panel that will be powered by the generator. It is not a harry home owner type job. An electrician will probably charge a few thousand dollars to install one legally.
My dryer is 3 pole, but my gen. is 4. What should I do?The “4 pole†will be two hot wires, a ground and a neutral. Just use the two hot wires (red and black generally) and the white neutral.
Will the gen. give ALL available power through the 240 outlet? That is, the sum of all power from gen will get pulled through the 240 recepticle, and there will be no benefit to also using the 120 volt plug ins.Only hook up the 240V outlet from the generator to the house. It will be fused at something like 20 or 30 amps. That is all the power you will have to pump into your house. Ideally the breaker on the generator’s 240V outlet should be smaller than the house breaker going to the dryer.
Don’t try hooking the 110V outlets to the house. You only want one connection (the 240V one) between the house and the generator. You can still use the 110V outlets on the generator to run extension cords to single point loads.
The guys do have some good points about safety. If you don’t know what you are doing or aren’t really comfortable around electricity then get someone to help you or stick to the extension cords. Also be careful about not turning too many things on.
But I still feel as long as you are careful about disconnecting the main breaker before you hook up the generator and disconnecting the generator before shutting the main breaker you should be OK. I know several people who hook up emergency generators through their dryers or hot tub connections. Probably pisses off the professionals but it beats freezing.
On another note, I have been reading about all the people in the northwest getting killed from carbon monoxide. Obviously make sure the generator is outside and not in any enclosure. The one guy died because his generator was in the garage. Also make sure you chain that bad boy down. It is amazing how people can steal a running generator and make a get away before the homeowner can make it out his door.
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But I would not backfeed 110 to a 15A plug. No way, no how!
Agreed
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That is what came with my crate LS2 motor. At the time I was looking at the motor I asked the same questions and got this reply
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111077&highlight=ls2
I ended up buying the JTR LS headers and building my crossmember around them.
This week I should get the engine in the car, at which point it will be a simple matter to hold the manifolds up next to the engine to see. From the looks of the earlier pics the outlets will point outward too much.
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If shopping for the wife could only be that easy.
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I hope to someday have a car nice enough to be pirated even half as often as Austin's....
Are we going to bid it up to 10 million dollars again?
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They pulled the listing.
I wonder what happened.
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Anyway, you pull that meter,
Oh man, have to disagree with that one. You still have to remember to disconnect the breaker you installed to the generator either way so I don't see your method being any safer. Plus, I don't know about your area, but my power meter is sealed in place with lead seals. I would have to break those seals to "pull the meter" which means the power company has to come out to reinstall the meter. Then they are going to want to know if I tampered with the meter and most likely want to charge me a service fee.
But the #1 reason not to do it that way is the power could come back on at any time you are F'ing around with the meter, so in effect you could be working on a live circuit and not knowing it.
Power will flow back through a breaker just as easily as it flows out of the breaker. The only two dangers of running the the generator back through a breaker is forgetting to disconnect the main breakers and having a power cord with two male ends.
But when in doubt, the extension cord method works.
Like I said as long as you are careful flipping the breakers the back feed method will work in an emergency.
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Damn guys. Why all the gloom and doom? He is just trying to get through with no power.
You don't have to have an automatic transfer switch as long as you are careful about manually flipping the breakers. You won't burn your house down either. 10KW is actuall a good sized generator. I know for a fact a 5KW generator is more than enough to put between two houses and run the fridge, freezer and a bunch of lights in both houses. You can even run the blower motor on a gas furnace (but not electric or heat pump!) Things like washer and dryer, electric stoves, dishwashers and large power tools are off limits.
Your generator will have a 220V outlet that has some rated output in amps. Probably 20 or maybe 30 amps. Make sure the circuit you plug it into is has a breaker larger than the one on the generator. Also make sure the cord you use to connect the generator to the house plug is large enough for the rated amps on the generator plug. Once you are hooked to the house just be careful what you turn on.
10kw will easily run your fridge, freezer, sump pump (if you have one) and a good number of house lights. It will even run the fan on a gas furnace allowing you to have heat. Turn on few things at a time and watch the generator to see what it is happy with.
When the power comes back on, turn off the generator and disconnect the power cord from the house BEFORE closing any breakers again.
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Haha, Okay maybe your not such a jerk after all but very "forward" as Pop said.
Thanks Kat.
Oh I never said he couldn't be a jerk...
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I don't understand what you are doing with multiple extension cords, but yeah if you trip the main breaker and plug the 220 out on the generator into a house plug, it should power up your entire house. I have known several people who have done this for days on end.
I should also point out that I have read articles in the newspaper that says what a bad idea this is, but still people do it.
You can even go through your breaker box and turn off breakers to circuits you know you don't want power too. 10K is not a lot of power.
Remember that construction type generators don't regulate voltage overly well, so if you plug in electronics like TV's or computers there is a risk you could burn them up.
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JTR has separate pages for the LS1 stuff and the generation 1 and 2 SBC stuff
For LS1's, #DAT-405P is the plain, uncoated version and #DAT-405C is the ceramic coated version.
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Junk yards work.
GM parts direct sells bolts. This is a good way to go for LSx engines because I like the aluminized coating they put on the LS specific bolts.
summit racing and JEGS all carry bolts. McMaster Carr will sell them in individual bolts and will sometime get them to you in less than a day.
A company called Fastenal has stores all over and sells high quality bolts, but in boxes of 25.
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Man, that would be something. My dream engine.
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Katman can be pretty, ahh, direct. But what he says is usually worth listening to. Overall a good guy to have contributing to your threads.
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Anyone know how to make a chop saw cut straight?
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
I put a metal cutting blade in a 7 1/4 inch circle saw then clamp a piece of angle iron onto the work as a saw guide. I get straight cuts that way, even in large pieces of flat plate, as long as I don't try and force the cut.