Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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summit racing carries all types of hard throttle linkage pieces and kits.
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Great idea Pop N Wood....thanks for the pic. Do you have the JTR kit?
That's not my car, nor my idea. Follow the hyperlink on the pic and it will take you to Pete Paraska's site.
I don't have a JTR kit because I went with an LS2 motor. Then I got cute and decided to use a carb and different transmission, so I had to build my own one-off mounts. I am using a lot of the info from the JTR manual. So no matter which mounting solution you choose, pick up a JTR book.
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Couple of other people have posted picks of sumps you weld onto the bottom of the stock tank. Seems like the easiest, cheapest and one of the most effective ways to do it. According to the post the key is to drill no more than 3 holes 1/2 inch in diameter to let the fuel in.
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The hood latch is far from an insurmountable problem.
There is a flat spot on the underside of the hood to move the latch assembly to the right or left.
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Stay away from ebay
$140 and they will get it to you withing 2-3 days.
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I do not notice any difference between the HF and Lowes/Homers cut off wheels. They seem to last a good while. I think I have used Norton wheels in my 7 1/4 inch circle saw. Can't remember if there was any difference between them and the HF stuff. At least nothing that jumped out at me.
Cutting thick plate with a sawsall would be a nightmare. I can't imagine getting a straight cut and also how many blades you would go though. I have cut a lot of 3/16 plate with a circle saw and an abrasive disk, but I have an old $40 Sears saw I use just for this. I would not use a quality saw because it is really hard on the saw. A couple of vise grips and a piece of angle iron make a perfect saw guide to get straight and accurate cuts. I have even made wood mitre boxes for cutting pipe with the circle saw.
I would love to have a bandsaw, but just not enough room in the garage for one.
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I have had a couple of major bikee wrecks, but I always managed to tuck my head in and roll. Thankfully I never did a face plant. The worse wreck is where I tumbled over a dog at about 30 mph. Had some major big-phill type bruises for 3 or 4 weeks following that one. Even bruised my dick.
In some respects the survival skills riding a bicycle are the same as the skills needed to survive on a motor cycle. You alway have to be anticipating an accident and be thinking about your "outs".
Sounds like you are on the road to recovery.
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What we have here is the dilemma of the century. Do we molest a pure version of an unmolested, molested car?
Will the real purists please stand up!
LOL.
To the point.
The problem with an "original scarab" is everyone of them is a one off. There is no way to tell if the car is "all original" because there is no master list of what was done to each one. And even if it came out of the scarab garage and was sealed and stored, it would still just reflect the tastes of the guy who commisioned it's butchering.
IMO if you won't modify your Z then you are completely missing the point of Z ownership. These cars are way too much fun to modify. In fact, I say we HybridZ members are the true Z car lovers and purists. We are the only one's that truly respect their potential and care enough to set them right.
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The moustache bar only sees downward force/torque, not twisting side to side.
If the engine is rotating in one direction, the diff will try to rotate in the opposite direction. That is why a solid rear axle car will try to lift one wheel.
Noticed Jon just beat me to it.
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there is a thread named "Ron Tyler style differential mount"...
Actually I linked to that thread on the first page.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115905
Excellent write up, worthy of sticky status. Has the same info as Pete's page with some additional info.
Actually I was always critical of the Ron Tyler mount thinking a more simple solution would be better. Once I got the car apart and actually saw how easy it is to do, I was sold. It took maybe half a day to make.
The other thing to keep in mind is the R180 front crossmember is no where near as heavy or strong as the R200 units. Something to think about before you start drilling holes or go to a solid mount.
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Yeah, but I hear you have to completely rebuild those things every 500 miles or so....
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If you set the carbs up to run on E85, then it will be tuned to run on E85 and E85 only. Switch to standard gas and you will be running too rich. Better make sure there are plenty of E85 stations in your driving area.
To answer your question, try some google searches. There are web sites that detail exactly what needs to be done to convert to E85. Not sure if they mention carbs, but probably do.
In fact, here is a good thread to start with.
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Damn. Didn't realize I was touching on a religious issue.
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You don't have to totally return to the stone age to set up a carb. Who reads plugs in this day and age?
http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
You guys need to reread the initial question. They are pretty basic and, IMO, display a general lack of knowledge if not understanding. I was more trying to get the guy to take a step back and get some more background information than to make a decision based on a couple of quick opinions.
And there are people who honestly believe a carb has a power advantage. I didn't say I was one of them, but I have read enough internet chatter to know there are people who firmly believe that.
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Thanks. I needed that motivation.
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This reads too much like a typical internet scam. Are you sure this is legitamate? What is SDU? Why wouldn't the cop post his name? How can anyone call the sherrif's personel department to check if the author really works for them?
Not disrespecting you for posting this. I know you have been on this site a long time and that is the only thing that gives this credibility. I just get suspicious when I read things like this.
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The absolute best, most powerful vacuum I have ever seen was in a ship yard. It was powered by compressed air. They had a 1 inch air hose going to a convergent-divergent eductor nozzle hooked up to a 55 gallon steel drum. They used a car muffler to cut down on the noise. No moving parts. That thing would have sucked up bowling balls. We used it to clean up asbestoes dust and radioactive paint chips.
Ahh. Good times!
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There are some people who feel the carb has a power advantage over FI.
Something about cooling the intake charge.
FI is "easy to tune". All you need to do is get a lap top and learn how to use the control software. Oh, and then you need to know how an engine works so you know what to do to get the most out of the engine. That second sentence holds true for setting up a carb, too.
As for your question, the reason you can't find anything definitive on the subject is because there probably isn't a single correct answer. There is a lot more to makeing power than just the fuel metering.
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Our car is so loud with 3" and a Borla Raceline I dont think we will even notice a solid front mount.
The solid diff mount I had on my car for all of 10 minutes was so loud I felt physically ill when I got out of the car.
Results do vary, but for some reason with my old R180 and a solid mount the noise was absolutely unbearable.
FWIW I ended up building a Ron Tyler style mount for my car. Once I got everything apart for the engine swap I realized just how simple the over the top mount really is. Here is an excellent write up on what needs to be done.
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Man. You're going to shake all that bondo loose with those.
Better carry a wisk broom and dust pan.
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I have a set of cheaters in my helmet. I also wear trifocals. Even with 3 sets of lenses to choose from I would have a difficult time welding without the cheaters. Some of the cheaters have a table on the back side that tells you what power to buy based upon your age. Nailed it perfectly for me.
I am not sure why they would make your eyes fail any faster than puberty did.
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I went to Sears to look at the suggested vacs...
I picked up the 6.5HP model and the tank crashed onto the shelf and bounced onto the floor.. taking out half the accessories display... I picked it all up and looked carefully at the tank clasps... These are barely able to hold the weight of an EMPTY TANK... WTF!!!
I snatched a new vacuum still in the box off the shelf.. ripped open the carboard and pulled out the vacuum.. I checked the fit of the tank clasps and found the SAME PROBLEM... they don't hold the tank for shiat...
Upon inspection of the unit I have determined that these are the same crappy designs everyone else is making right now...
Someone show me a real vacuum and I am out the door to pick it up...
Now... I realize that you are supposed to pick them up by the side handles on the tank... There is no way in hell I am going to purchase a vacuum designed that way... I don't have the time to wind up the cord, remove the hose and accessories, bend wayyyy over with both hands and transport the vacuum.. them return to gather up the hose, accessories, and the extension cord on my second trip... I will grab the damn top handle with one hand and hold the hose and cord in my other hand... or I might as well drop kick it into the trash bin...
LOL
Well, when you find one, let us know. FWIW the old unit I have only has handles on the top. Never had a problem with the bottom coming unattached, even with the tank full of gravel.
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Damn dude. Step back and pound a beer or two.
I have had a Sears vac that is 12 years old. It is just starting to sound like a bearing is going. When it dies, I will get another Sears vac, most likely this one
The sears units have bitchin filters that even trap drywall dust.
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The LS1-LS6 motors have a horrable PCV system that allows oil to be drawn into the intake manifold.
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To fix this properly, you'd need to plumb in a fitting into the block and run a line to an accusump, or go drysump all together, ...
Mike
GM redesigned the PCV system on the LS2 motors. They got rid of the valve cover vent and now vent the system from the valley cover. LS1tech has a number of threads on how to easily upgrade the old motors. Maybe I am reading the LS1tech threads wrong but sounds like GM fixed the oil consumption issue.
The carb'd LS2 crate motor I am installing is rated at 446 HP right out of the box. Nothing forged and stock 05 corvette cam. LS7 clutch and flywheel ran me about $400. I will do the complete swap using all brand new parts (including crate transmission) for about $13K.
What is the going rate for 450 HP RB motors swaps?
This carb's LS2 is going to be super simple to work on. Can't believe the RB guys will be saying the same.
S30 Aerodynamics not really that bad?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Jon and veritech-z are correct. The base of the hood is a high pressure area which forces air into the engine compartment.
In terms of airflow there is dead area at the base of the windshield due to the bend between the hood and the windshield. The airstream is deflected above this area. Think of those car commercials where they do a smoke test of a car in a wind tunnel. Those illustrate the principle pretty well.
Put a vent in the middle of the hood where the airflow is uninterrupted and it will draw air out of the engine bay. This is exactly what Nissan did with the later 70 Z cars.