Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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LOL
Did he rebut your negative feedback by saying you left a negative on him after he left one on you? Does he think people won't check dates?
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Strength at the welds is the absolute least of your worries. None of your welds should fail. You could weld a U shaped bracket to the strut tower and pin it to the cross rods and you will still be 1000 times stronger than you need to be.
All you really need to concern yourself with is the rigidity of the crossbars. In that sense try to make everything out of straight pieces with as few bends as possible.
IMO connecting the bar to the radiator core support is just so much added weight. See what you can do to get the bar to go straight up over the engine, curving it if need be. Going back to the firewall is what most guys do with their strut supports.
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I will never forget the 96 Fiesta Bowl that Florida was in. The SEC is an extremely competative conference. Has some great football. But they are also soft when confronted with a smash mouth team.
Looking forward to it.
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Do a search on seam welding. The guy who started the thread you linked ended up seam/stitch welding his whole car. Seems like an very good idea to strengthen our rusty old chassis.
I found an interesting tool the other day. It is a spot weld cutter with a stop that lets you cut a hole through the top layer of metal but stops before it hits the bottom. Would be perfect for cutting plug weld holes.
http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/blr11096.html
Seam welding has the added advantage of sealing the joint against water.
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I know that stuff works on boats. I have no idea if it would work on a car.
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As long as the experts are here, is this even possible on an LS series motor? They have the use once head bolts that need an angle gauge instead of a torque wrench.
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I doesn't matter. I'm sure the wife dumped it on his head:mrgreen:
Or his lap....
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Which leaves this "rebuilding" thing still up in the air...
There is a way... we have not found it yet...
yet...
Sort of makes me want to grab up every decent steering shaft I come across at the pick and pull.....
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Im my experience the majority of all backfiring through the carb issues are ignition timing related. A little bit of dirt in the dist cap can cause crossfiring between cylinders.
I suggest you start simple. Basic tune up, new cap, rotor, points, plugs, wires etc. Rebuild the carbs if you know that is needed.
If you still have the backfire problem, then do a compression/leakdown test. Should tell you the status of the rings and valves.
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Well that thread on zcar was also by mr 70z.. I have Sent him two manifolds over the last year orso .. both i can track most of the way ( upto the US border).. both where received by customs ( according to tracking that is).. Given the first one was shipped back and had to be resend.
I just dont trust you haven't gotten them anyhow.. It is either that .. or you need to stand guard at your mailbox!!
I know stuff gets lost .. i have had it happen a couple of times! And twice my shipments within the US got delivered in the garbage can !!! luckily my friend found them in time.
Anyhow these are uninsured mailings .. so there is always i risk ..
And yes i have another one packed to go but your blasphemy campaign and lack of time when shops are open ( they arent as nicely opened as US shops!).. have hold me back .. Im sure this one will get 'lost' as well .. and im not planning to pay another shipment given it is only $50.
I would be willing to send again when we both pitch in ..but im very doubtful two get lost..
It is easy to pin it on the guy sending .. however i'm sure they reached US soil! ( yes two!! )
Further I'm not planning on holding an on forum debate about who is right or wrong ..
And no im not using the PM function here allot And I'm not amused by you.
Not going to get much sympathy with that approach.
There are no excuses for not answering PM's or emails, especially when you owe someone something. Unless, of course, you have something to hide. How the hell is the guy suppose to track down lost shipments if you won't talk with him? If you know the mail is so uncertain then it is up to you to make some effort.
This kind of hoohah pisses me off.
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This still leaves the problem with matching any new U-joint to the rack pinion... 28 spline 15mm... not gonna happen... unless you make it yourself...
I think he is keeping the stock splined U joint on the rack and just splicing in a new U joint in the middle of the OEM shaft.
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Think power, not torque. Gearing needs to be set up to keep the engine spinning in the meat of the power band. Using steeper rear gears will help you accelerate faster if it keeps you in the power band longer.
A car with a wide power band will go faster if the gears are spaced farther apart. The RPM drops more between shifts but hey, thats OK because the engine is still operating at a good power level. Less time shifting means more time accelerating. A car with a narrower power band needs more gears spacing more closely together to get the engine into the power band quickly and to keep it there.
Going to 4th gear will improve the top speed of a car only if dropping one gear brings the engine RPM closer to the HP peak. Ideally you want the transmission to keep the engine spinning at the HP peak as the car speed changes. This will give you the maximum theoretical acceleration.
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I assume you have read the Borgenson's tech info page
Especially their warning on welding. Wonder how hard it would be to grind double D ends on the cut shaft. Also Summit racing carries rod ends specifically designed for supporting steering shafts.
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If you were driving around with a loose TC rod you might have uneven wear on the tires. Check the surface for uneven wear, then rotate and balance the wheels.
What you really need to do is go over the entire suspension, front and back, checking for worn parts. Retorque every nut and bolt to factory specs and get the front end aligned. Check the rear alignment also.
Following all that, steering wheel shakes while braking can be caused by "warped" rotors. BUT what people call warped rotors is often the result of not properly beding the brake pads. An uneven layer of brake pad material gets depositied on the rotors causing some parts to be "stickier" than others. This causes an oscillation in braking with the corresponding vibration.
If you do all of the above and still get shakes, then turn the rotors (or replace them), put on new pads then do a search for the proper brake pad beding procedure.
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The maximum traction is at insipient slip, just before actually slipping. F=mu(s)*F(normal). There is mu static, mu insipient, and mu dynamic. There is a specific range of mu for asphalt dry and wet. Take a hotwheels car, tape the rear tires to the top of the car so they don't turn or rotate, slide it down a slide in the playground with the car facing forward. Guess what happens? The rear swaps ends with the front. mu dynamic is alot less than mu static or mu insipient. It's a fact! It's not rocket science, pretty simple really. If you want to get alot more technical then rubber compound comes into play, but still rather simple. As for rolling resistance, think of mountain bike vs. road bike tires, the tire pressure, contact patch, etc., still pretty simple. Narrow tires have less rolling resistance since they are less flexible, they have the same normal force. Land speed cars are geared alot different than anything else, they do the flying mile, not standing start and they are not applying loads of torque to the tires.
But where would you put the #9 resistors on a hot wheel car?
I am not building a race car. Do you think #3 or #4 resistors would be enough for my street car?
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Had something similar on my 240. I never had visible leakage, but putting green dye in the coolant and wrapping paper towels around the head definitely showed where the coolant was leaking and immediately evaporating.
The correct solution is to pull the head, check it and the block for flatness then install a new head gastket.
The $2 fix is to add a tube of radiator stop leak.
If it is a big leak, especially with your turbo, you may want to pull the head. if it is a small leak, like my 240, then the stop leak will do the job.
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Hit a JY and get a new diff yoke.
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Sounds like you ordered the wrong driveshaft adapter flange.
Forget what year Z you have. Look at the picture on the JTR site and take some careful measurements. Don't worry about the shape (round or rectangular). Just look at the bolt hole diameter and spacing.
https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html
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All I want for Christmas is 2 or 3 uninteruppted weeks to work on my Z.....
Damn. Families and earning the mortgage sure chews up time.
PS. The Brazilian girls sounds nice. Would get rid of the family problems at the same time.
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Have you actually gotten under the car to take a look? Dont want to get your hopes up, but perhaps something got bent and is rubbing against the drive shaft or other spinning part.
second that
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Apply to the HybridZ post of your choice...
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Damn.
Wish I hadn't taken so many drugs back in the hippie days.
This thread seems to be causing me flashbacks.
Cathodic traction.
Damn.
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You do realize the current scrap metal prices are so high that metal yards are paying over $200 for junked cars. My brother says the high prices have motivated a number of his neighbors to clean up their yards
I don't see why you had to pay $30 to get rid of the Trans Am shell.
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You guys do realize that the smooth air flow over the hood causes a low pressure area above the hood. Just like an airplane wing. This causes lift, regardless of what the fan/radiator/front air dam is or isn't doing. It is not so much a high pressure inside the engine compartment that lifts the hood (although with the large radiator opening I am sure there is some of that) as it is the flow over the top of the smooth hood.
The same thing happens to the back end. Making the rear of the Z so smooth and sloping was actually a mistake on Nissan's part. This causes the rear end to lift (be sucked up) at speed. If you look at the early Z car aerodynamics link that I think Mike posted (an absolutely excellent article by the way), the author recommends putting some turbulence strips along the top of the car just in front of the rear hatch. Says they should disrupt the air flow preventing lift just like the turbulence strips on the top of Indy car racing helmets. I know Smokey Yunick use to put a lip at the back of the roof line in all of his race cars.
Missing Bicycle...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Two small town Irishmen were sitting in the town pub, when the first one says to the second " You know, Sean old boy, I think I've had every woman in this town, except of course for me Mother and me sister."
To which the second Irishman says "Well then Patty me boy, between you and me we've had them all!"