Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I thought Jon once said there is some type of test to check for hydrocarbons in the cooling system.
If you had HG issues I would think you would have seen evidence of that when you pulled the head. Usually those leaks only get worse with time. Besides, I think like you do in that overpressure would blow the cap or throw hoses before it shed freeze plugs.
My vote is block flex. And I can see how a layer of silicone would give the plug a chance to move. That stuff is pretty squeezable. Just ask silicone boy.
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I wouldn`t drive this car anywhere until you get this problem figured out. It sounds like a potentially deadly to me. I would hate to see the offending part fail at highway speed or heavy traffic.
The point I was trying to make in a half joking manner.
My bet is you are missing some teeth in the rack unit, but Denny's procedure will eliminate all the other possibilities.
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Man, you do nice work. I love such a clean look.
The aluminum mounting plate gave me a good idea for dressing up my LS2 motor. Everything else on the motor is shiny aluminum. I think an alumimum plate will complement the engine soo much better than a black piece of steel.
FWIW, MSD and Edlebrock are the only two who make an inginition box for the carbed LS motors, and my guess is they rebadge the same box. Hopefully the box won't let me down.
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The big advantage of the JTR kit is it puts the shifter of a T5 in the middle of the stock shifter opening. MikeJTR, the guy who developed the kit, says he built the kit to allow the use of the manual transmission and made up all the weight distributions stuff to help sell the package. Hopefully I didn't butcher his word too horribly.
The MSA kit is generally believed to not work with a manual trans.
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Buy a piece of plate steel and drill your own set back plates.
You can put the engine anywhere you want that way.
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I bought everything I needed to put the toyota S12W calipers with vented rotors and Modern Motorsports 240SX rear disk conversion for ~$700 from a member here. The guy had collected everything he needed (including used calipers) but got out of Z's before installing them.
IMO, the stock brakes are really not adequate for a car pushing any significant amount of power. I have read John's posts and agree with him up to a point, but I think his main point is that the stock brakes don't suck. If the rules require it they can be made to work with enough attention. At the same time John has upgraded the brakes in all of his vehicles, so that should tell you something.
The price on the rear disc brackets in the thread linked above is really good. It will be interesting to hear what Ron Tyler comes back and says about the aluminum brackets. the MM sport 240SX brackets look similar but are made out of steel. Corrosion is just not much of an issue.
But keep in mind for your application you really don't need to go rear disc. Just the vented toyo front disks should give you pretty reliable stopping power. Also IIRC there have been some negative opinions about the 280ZX rear calipers. Some people flat out hate them.
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Did you get your car yet?
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I think that 240sx was a group build over on LS1tech.com.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552041&highlight=240sx
funny, they had the same problem with their Pinks build as Hybridz did. What is it about Pinks builds that destroy any sense of brother hood?
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I'll bet they could get it to work if they added an Aquygen generator.
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What is the advantage of using MS instead of reprograming an OEM computer with say HPtuner?
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Interesting. Turns out the lens doesn't need to darken to protects your eyes.
all helmets that comply with the current ANSI Z87.1 standard (when in the proper down position) always protect operators from the harmful UV and IR emissions from the arc. This protection occurs whether the lens is darkened or not.from http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2002/collision.cfm
So much for the going blind garbage.
Looks like that much more of my money for Jim Beam.
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Alright, don't know why I have such a hard time letting go of these things. Guess I don't like seeing misinformation in the threads or people making things up.
Specs on the HF helmet
Specifications
Welding Protection Types For All Arc Welding Processes;
NOT for Laser Welding or Oxyacetylene Welding/Cutting
Shell Material High Impact Resistant Plastic Polyamide Nylon
Shell Colors Black
Shade Range 9 to 13; Clear State: #-3/4
Infrared Protection 780-1400 nm
Ultraviolet Protection up to shade 14 all the time
Viewing Area 6.29 Square Inch
Lens Switching Speed 1/25,000 second
Power Source Solar Cells
(rechargeable battery included, no additional battery required)
Weight 1.05 Lbs.
Power ON / OFF Fully Automatic
Operating Temperature 23 to 131° F
Storing Temperature -13 to 167° F
ANSI Approved Lens
Specs on the miller elite
Lens Speed 1/20,000 sec
Shade Control 9-13 Internal Adjustment
Sensitivity Control Internal Adjustment
Delay Control .10-1.0 sec
Viewing Field 97 x 60 mm (3.85 x 2.38 in)
Number of Arc Sensors 4
Lens Power Control Manual-on, auto-off
Low Amp TIG Rated 5 amps
Inverter Capable Yes
Battery Life 3,000 hours (2)
Magnifying Lens Holder Yes
Weight 18oz (510g)
Light State #4, provides continuous UV and IR protection
So the HF unit has a faster switching time, lifetime batteries, is a few ounces lighter and has been proven to never fail to properly darken in years of use. Does have a smaller viewing area and doesn't have the built in magnifiying lens holder. An important feature for us old guys with trifocals.
And only, what, 5 times the price?
I could say the longer switching speeds of the Miller helmet will make you go blind. But I guess I would be making that up.
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You don't think it is important to use metric bolts in a metric bolt hole and SAE in and SAE hole? They are pretty damn close, but then again not really.
Do you really think a cross threaded bolt will hold as well as a properly threaded bolt?
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With all due respect here...I had the same helmet. Junk! Dont buy it.
You will go blind lol:) I suppose replacement eyes are cheap..
I'll bet there are a dozen guys on this site who use one of these HF helmets. Some of whom I talked into buying one. Some of the guys who were most critical of the helmet ended up trading in their Hobarts for the cheaper HF unit and are happy now.
Most of the critics are people who have never tried it. You are the first guy who has one who didn't like it.
If you can tell me why this helmet will make me go blind where a more expensive one won't then I am all ears. This thing has worked flawlessly for well over 5 years now.
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Glad your still around...
I'm glad you live in Texas....
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You can spend more, but I guarantee this one will do the job
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46092
I wouldn't suggest it if I had not been using one for the last 3 years.
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I gave you a serious answer in your last, locked thread.
Fiber optics. If you can't induce a current, you can't zap anything it is connected to. If it works for the F22 fighter, it will work in your Z car. Along the same line minaturization of all electronics.
Taking out satellites is a golden way for a backward society to stike a blow against the western culture. And don't forget all the EMP weapons the military is developing. Doesn't have to be a nuke anymore, just a concentrated burst of EM energy designed to disable sensitive electronics.
Do some google searches on the subject. I think you will have an impossible time quantifying exactly what a nuke based EMP will do. Half of the initial tests failed because somebody miscalculated the expected field strength or mispointed a sensor. It is a highly random function and hard to predict what will cause a failure and what won't. Alternators are highly unlikely to be fried. Can happen if the situation is just right, but low odds because it takes a large induced current and voltage spike. Small electronics like cell phones and pagers are very unlikely to be damaged. Just not much wire in them. The cell phone network will be killed, but handheld electronics should have as much chance of surviving as the person carrying it.
Sheilding may or may not be the key. The Russians had an air burst that burned out buried cables. But the cables just happened to be hundreds of miles long and oriented in such a way they made an excellent low frequency antenna. The US test in 1962 had street light fuses get blown from 1400 km away. But when they analyzed which ones went, it was only 3% of the grid and was attached to the only long tranmission line on the small island of Oahu.
Some of the other suggestions given in this thread ring true. Get an old car, carbed with a magneto. Put some voltage surge devices on the output of the alternator and try limit the lengths of your wire runs.
On a Z, bury as much of your wiring as possible in the frame rails. Noise filters and voltage surge suppressors will keep peak induced voltages down by giving them a lower resistance path to ground.
The comment about the viens and arteries leading into your sheilded boxes is absolutely dead on. If you are really good with electonics put opto-isolators at the interfaces of every box containing sensitive electronics. Isolation is the key.
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Looks like my brand new crate motor block now has SAE thread holes.
For the life of me I can't remember cross threading these holes but I must have. I am usually not this stupid.
The Keisler bellhousing I bought is an adaptation of of a standard SBC unit that allows Muncies and TKO's to be bolted to an LS series motor. All they did was recast one bolt hole to make it fit the LS blocks. When they first sent it to me I called them up asking if it was the correct piece since none of the inspection plate hardware they sent will work with an LS motor. The guy assured me it was, and the extra bolt hole at 12 oclock proved that. You would think if you are going to rework a mold, you would go all out and make it fit the oil pan too.
Guess the keyword in your previous post was the word "reputable".
Think the wrong type bolts had anything to do with the runout being 14 thousands? I would hate to replace the dowel pins before I get the correct bolts in place.
Moday I give a call to Keisler then one to McMaster Carr to get helicoil inserts. Found this on LS1 tech
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519920&highlight=bellhousing+bolts
Funny thing is the SAE's seem to thread and hold perfectly right now. Suppose I would be a double dildo if I tried to use them. Especially since the engine is out of the car making the repair relatively straight forward.
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I think the LS bellhousing bolts are in fact SAE. I have a bunch of M10x1.5 bolts I am used to attach lift plates to the heads and motor mounts to the block. I also have the 3/8x16 SAE bolts that came with my LS specific bellhousing. The metric bolts will not fit into the bellhousing holes and vice versa.
Summit racing lists only SAE bellhousing bolts for "Chevrolet" applications. Same with the ARP web site.
Are you sure LS blocks use metric bellhousing bolts? The metric and SAE pitch are noticably different, even with a pitch guage. It would take quite a bit of effort to force the wrong one into the block.
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OK now you are scaring me. So far the bellhousing has only been set finger tight while I am fabbing mounts. I am using the bolts that Keisler engineering sent with the LS housing I bought from them. To tell you the truth I didn't realize they were SAE bolts until I checked them with a pitch guage for this thread. They seem to fit perfectly. The engine is a crate motor and has only sat in the wooden crate and not on a stand.
Let me take a closer look at them.
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Harbor Freight sells similar units for less. It would be nice to have something like that. I also would like to hear from someone who has one.
My drill press has been pretty useful for my LS swap, and I did have to pay a machine shop $50 USD to machine down an alternator bracket. Such a rig would be a "nice to have" tool, but not absolutely necessary.
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The Quaiffe is a torque biasing unit. If there is no torque load on one wheel, then there is nothing to bias. Hummers use ATB diffs and transfer cases. If they go off road and get one wheel in the air, then they can't move. The owners manual actually says to put on the brake in this case.
Guess the bleach box may cause something like that to happen. Or if you lift an inside wheel on a turn. That is why JohnC says the suspension must be set up properly for the Quaiffe to really shine.
Hard to believe the average smuck like me could go wrong with the Power Brute. I was going to put off an LSD solution till next year, but the current group buy looks too good to pass up. Early Christmas present for me.
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I found a number of DIY user forums when I was searching for info on how to wire my hot tub. Might try a google search for the same. Came in pretty handy when I miswired my GFI.
Better yet would be stopping by Homers or Lowes and getting one of the Reader's Digest books on home wiring. There are a lot of details to fill in.
You also realize that most counties require a licensed electrician to pull the permit for a job of this size. If you aren't licensed then there is a good chance you will fail the inspection even if everything else is right. I am a little suprised the electric company agreed to turn on a main panel without a permit and someone with a union card on the other end.
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Pop... are ya kidding?
Guess I should say for my GM LS2 V8.
Never occured to me that you might have a different engine.
My thoughts on the JTR mounting position
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
There have been a lot of people who have runs bunches of HP through JTR type motor plates. You may not like the look of them but if you look at their proven track record it would be very hard to argue they are inadequate.
Put in solid motor plates if you want, but IMO you are attempting to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Just make sure you reinforce the frame rails properly since that thin sheet metal won't take much.
As for fore-aft location, if you simply redrill the holes you can easily move the engine a half foot in any direction, other obstructions not withstanding.