Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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If you learn to weld on a cheap machine, you will have a hard time telling if problems are your fault or the machines.
Sheet metal can be hard to weld without burning through. It takes time to learn how to do. At the same time you need fine control of the heat to get halfway decent welds on sheet metal. If the machine doesn't give you that control, then you will burn up a lot of sheet metal thinking it is just your fault.
Keep searching for first hand opinions on that specific machine before you buy it.
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Just put some fluid in it and see if it keeps going down. Worry about "what if" when it happens.
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There are a lot of posts about costs. Some of them with "cost" in the title.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67657&highlight=cost
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115640&highlight=cost
.......
You have to weed out what costs are actually associated with the swap and what other mods people threw into their total.
$6000 really isn't a lot of money. An LSx swap will go through that in a heartbeat. Don't even consider an RB swap unless you can put a "1" in front of the 6.
Your absolute best bet it to find a complete, totaled vehicle and sell off the unused parts to offset the swap cost. Most people don't have the time, patience and/or facilities to do that though.
But everything I have just said can be found by searching. You might want to do that and ask some more specific questions before your thread is locked and discarded.
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Post looks inflamatory to me.
Look back though some of his other postings. Looks to bit of a trend.
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At that point it would be a supercharger and not a turbocharger. It is driven by engine torque, albeit via a hydraulic coupling.
You are not going to run a blower off the little oil pump in a normal car motor. You will basically need to set up a dedicated pump and drive system. Most likely belt driven. At which point you might as well run the belt to the blower directly.
The WWII German ME 109 had a variable speed supercharger that I believe was driven off some type of hydraulic pump. The advantage of this in an aircraft is you can vary the boost with the changing air densities with altitude. The British Spitfire had two speed superchargers that essentially switched gears (same as a differetn pulley size). The problem with that is the two different speeds were optimized to operate at different altitudes, so the engine performance degraded when operating at an altitude near the blower shift point.
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you don't mean that when you thread them in they can move around right? You just mean the hole in the tranny bellhousing isn't snug fit right? If so, I don't remember for sure but it seems like the holes were not a super tight fit, the dowels locate the tranny to the block.
Yeah, the bellhousing holes are oversized cause the dowel pins are what centers the trans shaft to the crank shaft (called runout). If you thread the bolts into the block and that wiggles around, then you might have an issue with stripped thread holes.
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Live life while it is in front of you.
Fly to Austrailia and dive the great barrier reef. One of most amazing dive spots, and freindliest countries, you could ever go to. They have these youth hostels in Cairns that are pretty cheap. You can probably book the dive boat on line. Not expensive at all. There are a lot of pretty girls in Austrailia and most of them seem to like to drink. This will give you something to talk about in the retirement home.
You might be able to make the reef trip and have enough left over for a decent shell back in the states.
The skyline idea is a good one, but like you said I would imagine $15K is not enough to pull that one off.
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It may or may not be deisling but I would definately start by running some seafoam. It won't hurt anything and will definately clean your fuel system/cylinder head. I wouldn't waste your money on Premium as it will not fix anything, although it may disguise the problem. I wish people understood a little bit more about gas composition and octane ratings. I see way too many people running premium/race gas for no reason or thinking it's going to give them more power. lol. (Sorry for the rant)
Well then please enlighten me. Higher octane gas isn't more resistant to detonation? Running premium won't stop the deiseling as long as he is using it? Who said anything about more power? He just wants to stop the car from running when he turns off the key.
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At least hunt him down and get the tenderloins out.
Thems good eatin.
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It's called deisling. You have carbon build up in the cylinders that gets hot and ignites the gas with no spark. The engine runs like a deisel for awhile. That was pretty common on cars back in the 70's when there were still alot of high compression, carburated 60's cars and the low octane gas of the 70's.
Back then we were always too poor to do anything about it so we would just leave the car in gear when we turned it off. I seem to remember flooring the gas pedal worked sometimes also. Or was it putting on the choke?
Out other solutions was to "blow the carbon out". In other words get out on the freeway and open it up. Don't know if that ever worked but was alway fun trying.
Switch to premium gas for a tank or two and see if this helps.
The ultimate solution is to cut off the fuel flow to the engine when the ignition is off. Fuel injected cars do that by design. My old Ford Fiesta had a Weber carb with a cut out solenoid in the idle circuit that did the same thing. Neither solution is much of an option for you.
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The muffler hanger inside the tunnel must be clearanced as welll...
That is another difference with mine. My muffler hanger was bolted on and not welded like in your pic.
Wasn't sure what the hell it was when I unbolted it.
Good to hear someone else had trouble with the diff hitting the crossmember unless the ES mount was filed down.
One last thing, I bought both a GM ES mount for the diff and a Ford one to mount my TKO transmission. The instructions on the Ford mount said the center hole was only for manufacturing and was not to be used to mount the isolator. Didn't see the same warning on the GM unit but was wondering if that was still the case.
I almost didn't do this mod because I thought the thing looked more complicated then the clamshell stock mount solution. But once I got everything apart and saw how much room there was anbd how easy it would be to fabricate, I figured it would be a good way to get the front of the diff lower allowing me to change the engine tilt.
Also a cut off wheel in a circle saw while clamping an angle iron saw guide to the plate steel is a fool proof way to get straight, accurate cuts.
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What diameter of fuel line is being used, and did you up size the pick up line going into the tank?
A little hard to believe you are exceeding the flow capacity of the lines at only 3000 RPM.
You can do a flow check on the pump. You know, disconnect a line and see how long it takes to pump a gallon of fuel/liquid.
And as long as I am throwing out ideas that I don't have to trouble shoot, Pete Paraska had a problem with his tank coating coming undone and clogging his system. maybe cut open the fuel filter and check for debris.
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BJ,
Don't panic yet. I was about to question Pop... The original mount for Pete P. was built ON a 240Z ('72) and the drawing is a direct reflection of that part. And, if I'm not mistaken, Petes car is also a 240Z. I'm not sure where the discrepancy is. Pop N Wood, what year car is yours?
Yeah, I know Pete's car is a 240 but it is what it is. The item pictured is mounted on the car. Mine is a December 1970. I am pretty sure Petes is the slightly later model that doesn't have the rear hatch vents (for what that is worth). Mine originally had the diff in the pushed forward postion. So maybe they changed the arrestor strap mounts when they went to the pushed back diff.
Relocating the holes is a trivial thing. Just put it on the car and take some measurements.
I was going to use 1/4 plate, but then I thought about JohnC's words that there is nothing on a Z car that requires 1/4 inch plate. I almost went 1/8 inch plate on top. That cross piece is where all the rigidity comes from, plus the ES mount seems to distribute the pressure over a fairly large contact patch.
Anyway you do it will be stronger than the stock rubber mount.
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But was I right? an an-3 fitting is a 3/16" fitting and a an-4 fitting is 1/4" fitting right?
Thanks, JR
Well, yes and no.
An an-3 fitting can be used with 3/16 hardline and an an-4 used with 1/4 hardline.
But the fitting itself has a different angle (37°) whereas standard fittings are 45°. You can't put an AN fitting on a coupling made for a standard fitting. You also need a different flaring tool for AN vs. standard fittings (37° vs. 45°)
Not sure which question you are asking.
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My 71 built in 70 did not have a vibration problem with the stock stuff. I did do the R200 swap and swear it made the car handle better in hard turns. But never did vibrate either before or after.
Worthwhile upgrade never the less.
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I just finished one too. 1/4 plate is massive overkill. Used 3/16 for the top and 1/8" plate for the sides.
The dimensions in Pete's drawing will not work for a 240. The bolt holes that mount it to the body are much closer together. I didn't make separate bolt tabs but just ran the sides straight down and drilled to fit. My whole unit is a good inch nore narrow too.
As for the washers, I filed down the bottom of the energy suspension mount to make it conform to the rounded diff. Pretty much had to do this to get the diff up off the crossmember. John Deere green. gotta love it.
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It's the beginning of a great adventure....
Congrats. The best is yet to come
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Fiberglass bullets are against the Geneva Convention because once buried under the skin they don't show up on an X ray.
One good backfire while tuning and you have enough shrapnel to shred your face.
Maybe not likely but a thought that comes to mind after seeing so many pics of blown up turbo manifolds.
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Search is your friend. 3/16 line and M10x1 fittings
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111952&highlight=90%2F10
this is where I got my lines and fittings from. shipping was very quick and expensive, but the cheaper line prices made up for it.
A US supplier
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I hope this is the right place to post this...
Has anyone considered natural gas conversion for their regular daily drivers? You can fill up right in your own garage for about a buck a galon.
Does anyone now who is making conversion kits? Or maybe tech information for DIY?
Check these out...
http://www.cngaz.com/http://www.cngaz.com/
That second link says the operating costs on the natural gas car is about 80% of what a gasoline car costs to run. That is a good bit more than a buck a gallon. Also says the in garage refilling unit costs $2k and takes 8 hours to give you enough gas for only 100 miles of driving.
Seems like a tough sell to me, but will be good if it helps bridge the gap to hydrogen vehicles.
BTW, JohnC posted a pretty funny story of some guy he knew that did several thousands of dollars worth of damage to his Duromax deisel when he forgot to switch over from the french fry oil before turning the motor off.
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Talk about thread hyjack. I feel bad because this is one of the more informative threads I have read lately.
No vortec, that is a crate LS2. I took off the valve cover mounted coil packs that came with it so I wouldn't damage them while fitting and refitting the engine. Will run with the stock parts at least initially. Maybe down the road I can mount them on the strut towers or maybe bury them in the cowl.
The engine in the link I posted has the GM LS carb intake with injectors. Looks pretty wild, except IMO the rest of the engine bay is so cluttered the engine gets kind of lost.
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POP... Check out the scans in post #13. I don't see how the holes can be redrilled more than a couple of inches laterally plus there seems to be no room for longitudinal movement at all. Am I missing something? I probably am because I really DON'T know what I'm doing with these.
If you confine the mounting holes to the area of the stock JTR plate you are right. But if you cut a larger piece of plate, then you can position the mounting holes anywhere you want. I have been having a very easy time cutting plate with a simple cut off disk mounted in a standard 7 1/4 inch circle saw. For some of the smaller cuts I use a die grinder and a hacksaw. The two sets of bolt holes could overlap, but IIRC there is a spacer between the datsun tower and the plate. Thus in theory one could make two plates and use studs, or some such arrangement.
I have to admit the stock towers do look cheesy, but you can't argue with what works. I am making a new crossmember for my LS2 install so my stock towers got cut off a long time ago. But to brace the new xmember I keep looking at the stock set up wondering just how strong I need to make the supports/braces.
Turbo Meister's set up is some serious do-do. The only thing he missed is reactive armor.
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Well, running may be a bit premature. Still building.
I assume by plastic covers you are talking about the red things the corvettes use. Definitely won't be using those since the won't exactly work in my application. Here it is with the coil packs removed to prevent damage.
Here are some pics of a gorgeous set up that doesn't use the plastic covers
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504639
Would love to do something similar to the above, but there are some definite pluses to keeping the coil packs near the plugs. I was thinking of just replacing the black steel mounts with some flat aluminum. Everything on this motor is aluminum, so why not the coil mounts?
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Maybe all you need to do is adjust your fast idle cams so the engine revs stay high when the choke is on. Also get under the hood and ensure your choke is fully closing when cold. And also make sure there are no vacuum leaks or bad hoses.
You really shouldn't need a separate injector. Installing one will just cover up what is really wrong.
Oil filter test results
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Yeah, the Tough Guard has the silicone anti drain back valve.
This is the "study" posted previously on this site
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html
Both studies do the same type of unsubstantiated "this looks better than that" testing of oil filters. Both hate the low buck standard Fram oil filters but like the Fram Tough Guard filters. None of these studies ever measure how well the filters actually filter the oil.
Actually the thing that got me to spend the extra 2 or 3 dollars for the Tough Guard filters was some guy who had one of the entry model disintegrate and pump pieces of filter element all through his engine.