Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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3/8" by 16 pitch, inch and a half long, grade 8
Stainless bolts typically are not as strong as regular steel
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I bet those camels cant stand a chance down the quarter against my horses!
If you are talking the 4 legged horses, I thought camels are actually faster than a horse over short distances.
At least that is what I remember from a bad movie I once saw.
Can't believe you spent as many years in the Marines as you did and never ate mystery meat on a stick.
Or a Gyro. Aren't those suppose to be mutton?
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I would have used JTR or even JCI's kit if it would have worked with my specific combo of engine and trans. Ended up doing it on my own (with lots of ideas from all the good members here), but I would certainly be a LOT farther along if I didn't have to do all the trial and error fitting of this and that.
It's one thing to have a complete shop with the right tools and enough free time you can invest 3 or 4 consecutive days working on the car. It is a lot harder when you have to sneak time in after your normal job and in between soccer practice and doing the wife. Not to mention hunting down the miscellaneous nuts and bolts or correct sized piece of steel.
For a part time hobbyist a “kit†can be the difference between getting the job done and having it string out for so long that you lose momentum.
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Isn't part of the problem with long tubes and the JTR mounts is clearance under the floorboards for the collectors?
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I get compliments from older women who grew up either wanting a Z or hanging out with people who did.
Put on a members only jacket and start cruising the local coffee houses.
Ah, good times!
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Oh, but I can't imagine driving and LS equiped car is as much fun as the swap is turning out to be......
LOL
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What are you having done to your car that it is taking them 18 months to complete?
Gieco is at least a third cheaper than anyone else I have checked, and I get new quotes every year. They have probably paid out $15K on my behalf over the years and have never raised my rates or given me a hard time. They paid with no complaints when my neighbor borrowed my truck and tagged a BMW, and also paid a second very expensive accident that I lost in arbitration (but which Gieco agrees wasn't my fault). They even made good on improperly repaired damage from the second accident that surfaced when the vehicle was being repaired from a third not my fault accident. All within 3 years.
What's not to like?
I know about their radar guns and even their crusade to ban radar detectors throughout the country. Don't like it, but since I have to whore myself to an insurance company I might as well go with the cheapest one that has a proven track record. It is all bottom line with those people so there is no reason to take any of it personally.
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That starboard side JTR header does go a long way forward. Much farther forward than is necessary to clear the starter.
Somebody just recently posted that they used some block hugger headers with their LS conversion. If you got something that collected in the middle and went straight down you should be OK.
Don't know if you have seen any pics of the JCI mounts but they did some fancy stuff to clear the steering shaft on the port side. I have a hard time believing you won't have trouble with the steering being on the other side. I would do some searching of the photo gallery of JCI mounts to get an idea of how they ran the mount on the starboard side.
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Wouldn't really consider it easy, I payed every penny of repairs and fees, and insurance, with no help. The only help I got till now was the truck, and that was because they didn't want to pay to fix the truck in the first place.
My brother is over 50 and has never driven anything but cars he has had to constantly work on. I have had it a good bit easier (didn't have kids till I was well into my 30's), but still have never had anyone buy me a car. Not once. And now that I have kids I put off buying nice vehicles to put the money into college funds instead.
Like people are trying to tell you, in college, parents and grand parents helping with car loans, money for tatoos instead of food and diapers. You are living large and don't even realize it. Simple fact of the matter is if you resent your parents restrictions, stop asking for their help and earn your own way. Otherwise just be grateful for what you have.
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I am done with having an old daily driver, I've had too many.
Sounds like you've had it pretty easy in life.
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It needs two more cylinders.
That's what I am adding to mine anyway.
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I have had extremely good luck with gieco. I might be one of the exceptions, but I swear by them. They have paid more than one claim on my part and have never raised my rates.
There are many different types of car insurance. I had a state farm policy that basically let me keep my car in the garage but not to drive it (my state requires insurance to keep plates). It was about $30 every 6 months. Maybe your policy was similar? The price was so cheap because the risk was so minimal. Guess they feel the risk is higher now that you don't have control over the vechicle.
If your car has been in a body shop for that long, then why do you need insurance on it? Doesn't the shop have insurance that covers customer's cars?
Looking back it looks like I am defending gieco. I am not trying to do that so no flames please. Just trying to help you figure out options.
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I have to install a pilot bearing to day. Think I can use another Z car to help with that task?
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Do you have a chin pan? Datsun back fit a sheet metal pan between the frame rails and behind the radiator to help smooth out under car turbulence and improve air flow through the radiator at speed. It helped with my otherwise stock 240.
Previaling wisdom on this site is overheating at idle is a fan issue, but overheating while moving is an airducting issue.
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Most probably answer is no. The more fundamental question is why would you want to? Better to use a GM specific trans.
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Yeah, that engine has come down a good bit since I bought mine 3 months ago. GMPP can usually stick you pretty good on shipping/hadling fees. Run through their web page order and see what I mean.
Take the part number to your local GM dealer and see what price they charge. You will pay taxes (which technically you are suppose to pay on any internet order), but GM will cover the shipping. I ordered mine on July 3 and got it 3 days later even with the holiday inbetween.
http://www.paceauto.com has it for $5300, but that includes shipping to a local freight company.
http://www.sdpc2000.com has it for $5095, but I am not sure what they charge for shipping.
There are a few quirks with that engine compared to a typical F body install. But I just about have the installation on mine figured out. Looks super sweet sitting in the engine bay. Can't wait to hear it roar.
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Ok so the original question "340 Polaris and a ihi RBH5" yes u could make it work, what i would do is convert your carb(s) to throttle bodys only. Remove the reed cages and run a fuel injector(s) with megasquirt. Is there a battery on that polaris?
That is just it, I don't think you can make it work with a turbo. Don't know anything about that engine but unless it has some type of valves then I don't see how you could get a turbo to work.
But a supercharger might work.
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The valvetrain is what makes or breaks forced induction suitability...
Bingo.
On a standard 2 stroke the intake and exhaust ports are open at the same time. The turbo needs exhaust pressure to work. Build up exhaust pressure and you will also backpressure the intake port.
The 2 stroke GM turbo diesel in the nuke plant I worked in had a single exhaust valve at the top of the cylinder and ports at the bottom of the cylinder bores for intakes. Thus the intakes were only open when the piston was near the bottom of it's stroke. The turbo was clutch driven to develop "boost" during start up.
I have also heard of opposing piston, 2 stroke diesels that had cranks at the top and bottom of the engine with separate pistons at either end of each cylinder. When the pistons were all the way apart, they unshrouded an intake port at one end and an exhaust port at the other. Thus the pistons themselves worked like valves. These engines also use some type of turbo or supercharger to force air into the cylinders.
These small engines CAN BE "SUPERCHARGED" ....That is what I was thinking.
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Truly one of the more bizarre threads in the HybridZ directory.
If you are really worried about EMP you have your work cut out for you. In 1962 the military detonated a high altitude 1.4 megaton airburst over the Pacific. The EMP burst was so strong is blew out the fuses on the street lights in Hawaii over 1400 km away. Something like that could conceivable blow the fusible links in a Z.
Tubes will be of no use since the metal grids will be very effective antennas. The induced currents from long runs of wiring could even break down basic insulation and even transformer wiring.
Your only hope is to convert all open wiring to fiber optic cables and put any sensitive electronics in heavily shielded and sealed boxes. Miniature electronics and rad hardened semiconductors like they use in satellites are also highly desired.
But IMO the best way to insure you can get out of Dallas is to pack a cache of weapons in the spare tire well. That way if the Z electronics get taken out, you can easily appropriate a running vehicle and all the fuel you need.
Good luck.
Maybe your banning is not the work of the site, but is simply the work of some larger group who is trying to stem the dissemination of knowledge concerning EMP shielding of automobiles.
Think about it.
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Sorry, just read it close enough to see the problems are only with the hood in place.
Can you get a hood from a mid 70's Z with the two vents? I have those and they really radiate some heat when sitting in traffic.
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But on a side note, tell me what you guys think about an SR20DET into the sentra.
I think you will have a hard time getting dad to pay for it
There is a country western song in your post somewhere.
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Lot of engine.
Maybe adding an oil cooler will help. I assume you have done all the standard stuff like flush the block etc.
Make sure your lower radiator hose isn't collapsing. Needs to have a spring in it. Quite a few guys found that to be a problem. I assume your timing is good too. some guys have fixed overheating problems by adjusting that. Make sure you seal the shroud around the radiator to prevent air leaking past the rad.
Beyond that, there was a guy on here who installed two auxilliary radiators (i.e. heater cores) either down in the wheel wells or off the front air dam brake ducts (can't remember which). He swore by them. I always thought this was an uneeded fix since most guys don't have to go to that extreme. But if your engine is radiacal enough maybe that is what you need (short of a bigger radiator).
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I think an analog MM will load down the sensor too much.
Pretty sure you have to have the high input impedance of a digital MM to read the weak signal from an 02 sensor.
Well I already have the MM and the wideband O2, so if I ever get the motor running I guess I will find out what works. All it will cost me is a mounting bung.
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You're running the F body accesories. The vette acc on my crate motor puts the belt back 3/4 inch. I tried to do what you did but could not make it work.
But the alternator I got out of a Celica should do the trick.
The pics below have roughed in brackets to determine clearances. Have already pulled the unit to make something more substantial. The belt route looks good. Will be able to delete the idler that sits on the stock bracket. I have a good inch on the side and below the alt. Think the engine will rock that much? Those S&P bisquits don't seem to have much give.
Now to do something about the steering shaft hitting that vette aluminum motor mount. May need to make a new one out of steel.
very cool chevrolet wtcc ultra concept
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Looks like something out of a Godzilla movie