Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Checked luggage.
Found a note in my case when I got home saying the TSA had inspected my bag.
Wonder what made them suspicious? The tool box, the big metal bar or the bag full of gauges and wires?
The R200 cross member is a good bit thicker than my R180 bar. Was going to cut them both in half and weld them together to gain dual exhaust cut outs. May have to think about that one some more.
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I use this place as kind of a barometer of LS pull out prices. I watched the prices from that place for a couple of years before I bought my engine. Since the end of last year prices on the 2001-2002 F bodies went up like I said. I called the guy, and he told me he only lists a fraction of the engines he sells on ebay. He said his prices are dependent upon the auction prices for the cars. He said everybody had finally figured out that these engines are starting to get old and that they aren't making any more of them.
The pre 2000 motors are supposedly less desirable due to different oiling and heads. You see the obscene prices on the LS2 motors. Makes for a small pool of available cars.
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Amen brother.
I noticed Consumer Reports did an issue with the lead article about their experiences and testing of an E85 vehicle.
Not very flattering.
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Guns sound different when being discharged at you.
Hot damn that is subtle understatement.
Hope to never know what you mean.
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Naaaawwwwsss!!!
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the year makes a big difference in price, as does the manual.
LS1 prices jumped about a grand from the first of this year. They are becoming harder to get these days.
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Mission successful.
Got a crossmember, tach and voltmeter/fuel guage from Ecology for fidy bucks. Easy to do when the cars are up off the ground like that and the dashes are already torn up.
This was my first time underneath a 280. Man, there sure is a huge difference betweent the floor pans of a 240 and 280.
Thanks again guys.
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Back fit a hybrid drive out of a Prius.
Be the first of the new wave of motor swappers.
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I notice zbarn lists replacement joints for $25.
I have never pulled the joint at the top of the shaft. Call Z barn and see if they sell just the joint or the whole unit.
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Here is a new band that has a Led Zeppelin/Black Sabbath/'70's rock type sound... from Austrailia. They've got some pretty good songs.. lots of transitions in their songs...
and I usually don't like any newer music..
Listen until at least 1 minute into it and you will see what I mean..
here is another one...
Saw Wolfmother at the Virgin Festival yesterday. Man, they had the crowd moving.
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Well, since no one is offering more current info, I know when I replaced mine maybe 15 years ago they were no longer available. I had to buy a used shaft from MSA.
Unless someone comes up with more current info on new parts, try http://www.baddogparts.com , http://www.zbarn.com or http://www.zcarparts.com
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My brother lost a front wheel on his Vega. Twice. Both within a couple of months of each other. First on when a wheel bearing seized and sheared the spindle shaft, and second when a ball joint went.
Nothing like routine preventive maintenance.
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You need to match the engine tilt to the angle of the rear diff. On my car this put a pretty significant rearward tilt on the engine. I did the JTR mod of drilling out the mustache bar washers to raise the rear of the diff. That helped a good bit, but still no where near level. If you want it that level you wil almost certainly need to build a new front diff mount to lower the front of the diff too.
BTW, how does hood clearance look with that carb on the LS1? I set my engine about as low as I can (so low the alternator will not clear the steering shaft) and I figure I will have maybe 3" clearance from the carb flange to the underside of the hood.
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OK, it is the pump that can't handle the lines and not the other way around.
That makes sense to me.
So the short story is pick a pump that can handle your target HP and size the lines accordingly. Don't go too big on the pump.
BTW, Ford sends a signal from the engine computer to control the pump speed. And instead of a belt driven pump, why not a mechanical? That will also vary with engine speed.
JTR makes a BIG deal about hooking the electric pump up to shut off when the engine dies. Makes sense to me.
So has anyone ever soldered in a new pick up tube on a stock 240 tank?
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Yes but the 240Z tank has smaller in/out tubes on the tank. Witch in my opinion are too small and cause exsessive strain on the pump. You can either replace the tank with a later modle fuel injected tank or put in a fuel cell. Other options are to run your feed line off the bottom drain hole or weld a sump pan to the bottom.
Piss. Double piss with what Wheelman said. Was hoping to get a short term short cut to getting on the road.
The fill tubes on the 240 tank are suppose to be soldered in. Has anyone unsoldered the fill and return tubes (along with their mounting plate) and rigged up a larger inch pick up?
You guys scare me with your 1/2 lines. The Comp 140 pump I am looking at for my carb motor only recommends 3/8 inch feed and return. Every damn splitter I have seen for Holley carbs use 3/8 inch line. Whay would something under 500 HP (which is probably 98% of the guys on here) need 1/2 inch line?
And from what I have read the overwhelming majority of guys are using 3/8 line. Hell, a lot of guys aren't even running return lines.
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Might want to check the steering linkage isolator and look for worn u-joints.
I second that. My U joint down at the rack was worn out causing just what you said.
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PoP N Wood' date='
I would love to think I am that talented and take credit for the Pictures, But I couldn't weld my way out of a paper bag.
78zLT1 posted all that beautiful stuff. He deserves all the credit!!!
If somebody on the list had the time and resources and was good at fabricating this stuff fairly easily with a jig or something I would buy this stuff in a heartbeat!
Thanks all,
Greg[/quote']
Thanks again.
I'm on a roll today.
Good work , 78zLT1
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Here is a pretty good link Grumpy once posted
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp
They do a pretty good job of explaining pump ratings. Note that return systems can use a smaller pump than the dead head systems. The caution about using restrictive fittings. They also recommend the same size feed and return.
But their reccomended line sizes are about a step larger than anyone else I have seen. They say 1/2 line is needed for anything above 375 HP.
I am picking up a Mallory Comp 140 gph fuel pump. I will be using the Mallory recomended 3/8 inch feed and return line with this pump. I will probably never grow to more than 500 NA HP.
And as everyone knows, alcohol requires more fuel for the same HP than gas.
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I just want to correct one thing Pop said in his post. The back of the diff will not lift the front will.
Thanks for correcting my typo. Meant to say front.
gvincent, thanks for the pics and the ideas. Love what you did with the front diff crossmember. I was going to splice two together but what you did should work just as well. I have saved all your pics to my hard drive.
Also like how sturdy your trans cross member is and the accessability it gives. Maybe I need to move up the schedule on adding subframe connectors.
One other thing, I did the JTR mod of drilling out the holes on the mustache bar bushings to raise the back of the diff by 3/16 inch. They helped me reduce the tilt on the engine increasing the ground clearance on the tranny. If you do that simple mod, then you may not need to mess with the front pinion angle to do your static alignment.
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Man, love this site.
Thanks guys. I know right where that place is. Was stationed in Corranado almost 30 years ago now. Use to have a buddy who rented a place in Imperial Beach.
Thanks for the tour offer, but I won't get in until Monday afternoon. This will be my first business trip/pick and pull excursion. Wonder if I can put the yard entrance fee on my expense report?
I wonder if those 280 stubs are still laying on the ground.....
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The winner probably used an auction sniper program to outbid the high bid at the last moment.
I don't know guys. Running Z car engines can be had for $500, complete with transmissions in most cases. It is the little things that eat you up on price. The thing was a 240 (not 280), had the good carbs and was awfully straight and clean. The seller seemed really up front and detailed. The winning bidder looked legit. Judging from his previous purchases the winning bidder must be restoring a 70 something Nova. Maybe he doesn't care about the 6 banger. Could there be a new member brewing?
I look at it as a good sign for those of use who own 240's. Maybe these things are finally starting to be worth some money. You guys in the southwest don't realize how good you have it. Old Z cars have even disappeared from the salvage yards on the east coast. I have never seen a rust free 240 with dead engines in a local auto trader. Hell, I brought mine from CA.
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Any one know a good Z junk yard in the San Diego/La Jolla area?
I am flying out there next week and want to pick up a front diff crossmember. Wouldn't mind getting a set of 280 stub axles but don't want to bring that many tools on the plane.
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That is amazing.
I still wouldn't run that engine though.
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Thanks for doing this. Pretty good mind dump.
But for the R200 into a 240 you also need the rear most crossmember that holds the back ends of the control arms in place. The R180 has a straight bar while the R200 is curved
And since you said 240, you might mention the early 240's mounted the R180 35 mm forward. To do that swap you get the R200 pieces and the longer driveshaft. All that is needed then is to flip the front diff mount around .
Good work.
when tragedy strikes
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I hope you got witnesses hearing him say that. The same thing happened to a buddy of mine maybe 3 months ago. Was backing out of his driveway and got hit. Swung is car around 180° and knocked him back into his front yard. No skid marks, figured the other car had to have been doing 40 MPH when they hit him. Can’t figure out how his was going that fast since his driveway was maybe 100 feet from an intersection with a stop sign. The couple got out of the car apologizing and saying they didn’t see him because they were arguing about money.
When the insurance companies got a hold of the accident reports and said it was my buddies fault since he was the one backing into the street. He had to cover both cars.