Pop N Wood

LOL If you switch to ether instead of propane it might take care of the bug problem at the same time.

I would send it back.

That would be my concern. Those 280 turbo motors are not getting any easier to find. Do what someone said earlier and go with whatever you can find cheaper.

It will tell you if there is a leak when the engine idle speed changes. It is just questionable how safe it might be.

I may take you up on the offer, but for now I think I have enough info. Somehow I felt got the impression using the F body alternator mount machined to fit the corvette pulley spacing was going to clear. Maybe I need to take a closer look. Trouble is the guy at the machine shop has had my bracket for almost 3 weeks now and still hasn't gotten around to it. My problem is I am trying to use a TKO trans which is 3 1/2 inches shorter than the T56. I need to get the engine as far back as possible to minimize the surgery on the stock shifter hole. BTW, I downloaded a couple of slick alternator mounting solutions off LS1tech. Will use one as a fall back should I run into steering shaft problems http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113654

Propane is a time tested method of checking for vacuum leaks. If there is a leak, the extra fuel in the intake will affect the engine idle. I used a can of starter fuild to find the vacuum leaks in my SU throttle shafts. Not so sure about filling the crank case with propane though. Using an unlit torch on the engine externals is pretty safe. But how will you ensure it doesn't build up to an unsafe concentration in the crankcase?

You are definitely where I want to be. One quick question, on your website you wrote the following and I was wondering if the numbers are still correct. My LS2 crate has the Corvette accesories mounting. I am hoping I can get the pulley completely down and behind the steering rack. But getting my cross member height and left right spacing set will help immensely with this fore-aft placement.

Ordered mine from here Click on the brass fittings index shipping is fast but expensive. A US option: http://www.fedhillusa.com/brakelinenutsfittings.html The Z fittings are M10x1. They should work with 3/16 hard lines.

The mounting on the trans crossmember could easily twist the engine enough to cause the discrepancy.

Sort of makes my little link seem insignificant http://www.tinmantech.com/html/faq__tig_vs__gas.php

http://www.tangshop.com/sanyo-pm-8200-travel-charger-sanyo-4900.html Radio Shack carries universial phone chargers

Maryland is going through the same thing. They actually bulldozed trees along several major road ways rather than trim them. Agent Orange could not have done a more draconian job. But I have to say, a few years ago we suffered from regular power outages that lasted days at a time. Since they started their tree genocide campaign we have not had a single power outage (knock on wood). Name your poison I guess.

I remember reading an old post where someone with an LS2 motor rotated the alternator in the mount to make the lug clear. Thanks phantom. Good info.

I don't care about the rattling. It doesn't bother me. Just quit driving by my house at night!!!

I am very interested in this info myself. I hope to set my motor in the next few days and have just begun to address the port and starboard placement.

Nothing a drill and a NPT tap won't cure.

If all you want is a parking brake, then don't bother putting a line lock on it at all. Opinions vary, but they don't work for that purpose. Do a search and see if you can count the number of members who tried using a line lock as a parking brake only to find their car somewhere other than where they parked it. Leave it in gear when you partk it. If you want more than go to autozone and buy a set of plastic wheel chocks.

Keep us posted on how things work out. I am always looking for a bargain.

I don't have the links handy at this computer, but I have read many sources that says using a torch to weld cromoly helps with the annealing process. They claim it is actually prefferable to TIG. I will have to find the links.

I know MSA use to carry them. Check with them or black dragon auto. But if I remember correctly only the early early boosters could be rebuilt. The later models were only sold as complete units.

I work for an engineering defense contractor. We have gotten resumes with cover letters written in text messaging/myspace type slang. Not sure how the resumes even made it out of HR.

If you turn 2000 RPM at 70 mph with your 3.7 rear, then a 4.11 will put you at 2200 while a 3.36 will put you at 1800 RPM for the same mph. Another way to look at is the 4.11 rear in 6th will put you somewhere between 5th and 6th of your current set up. Guess you need to ask yourself how comfortable the car feels at speed with the current gearing, then go up or down from there. I imagine with your engine those would all seem like comfortable RPM's. Next you need to figure out how quickly you have to shift out of first when you are getting on it. Lower gearing will make traction that much harder to control.

One of the better investments I have made. Only time it doesn't work is when I am too lazy to pull it out. Even useful for catching rust and debris when unbolting parts. Plus I always keep a covered bucket of saw dust or kitty litter handy. Taking a moment to close up open containers is always a good idea that seem hard to do.

I think the main purpose of a driveshaft loop is to keep the car from pole vaulting on a broken driveshaft. Not really an issue with half shafts. Don't see how a single loop of steel will keep a shaft from beating the snot out of the tunnel.