Pop N Wood

Don't do coil overs. You don't need them for your car. Get some stock replacement springs from MSA or Victoria British. I have springs very similar to these. They work great on a street ride. http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC01A Trouble is, if your springs are gone, then the struts and possibly bushings are not far behind. Best to do everything while the springs are out. Look over the MSA on line catalog and maybe Modern Motorsport page and rebuild your suspension right the first time. May seem like a lot of money up front, but usually the cheapest way to do things is to do them right the first time.

Quite a few guys have installed dual master cylinders, all non-powered (no booster) Do a search on dual MC or Tilton and you should find plenty of info. I know JohnC has posted pics of his set ups.

A good link on hydrogen storage densities http://www.aip.org/tip/INPHFA/vol-10/iss-1/p20.html Says hydride systems can actually store more hydrogen in a smaller space than liquid hydrogen. But the weight of the storage tank is a major issue. It also looks like many of these systems have huge issues in how they will be recharged. It is not as simple as hooking up a hydrogen hose to your vehicle. Looks like an effecitve storage method continues to be one of the unsolved engineering problems facing hydrogen vehicles. Actually here is another link to a government agency that seems to have a lot of good info about renewable energy. http://www.eere.energy.gov/

Looks like something right out of a Godzilla movie. I think the really early Civics had chain drives also. Would love to have one of those. Wonder if a CB1000 engine would bolt in.

That thing isn't even original. Maybe he misplaced the decimal point. 3500 would be a smokin price.

Man, I owe you big. My POS Chilton manual didn't show an A/F relay or fuse. The manual made it look like the thing was powered directly off the ECU. Thought maybe your diagram was for a different car. But I poked around anyway and found the blown 25 amp fuse. $2.82 for 5 fuses and the light is out. Let's see if this holds up. Sure beats $500+ Thanks. After what I went through last year I overlooked the obvious. BTW, those heaters draw some amps. The Chilton manual listed the resistance as 1.2 ohm at 68° and 3.4 ohms at 1472°. Thats 10 amps-120 watts per heater. Those suckers get hot!

Anybody have any ideas on what would make a car burn out the O2 sensor heaters? Last year my wife's 2001 Toyota Sienna had the heating elements go out on both primary O2 sensors. They went out 1 at a time within 2 weeks of each other. Two weeks after that I got the smog check notice, so had to fix them. Today, only 12,000 miles later, the computer threw error codes for BOTH heaters at the same time. This van has the wide band types. At $250 EACH from Toyota ($300 each for the Bosch units at Autozone) I do not want to replace them until I know what is going on. What the F could cause both heaters to go out at the same time? All I have is the codes right now, but the ones I took out last year are open circuits when checked with an ohm meter. The van seems to run fine. Any chance I could splice a 1.2 ohm resistor in place of the heaters and not have the engine run bad?

Hey! That's pretty good caulk! I used about 10 tubes of it when I built my sunroom.

I was going to say, full auto license are not that hard to get. Just expensive. Some states make things more difficult than others too. Back in the early 80's a buddy was a gun dealer and wanted to sell me a completely legal, full auto Uzi with silencer. I couldn't afford the $800 (including permits). These days I could easily sell that for 10 or 20 times what it would have cost back then. A lot of people think full auto weapons are an excellent investment. Most definitely outperform the stock market.

Could you fix the links? They don't seem to work.

That gun had to have been seriously hot after all that. Good way to go through $150 in ammo.

Nothing wrong with flux core MIG welds. If you are welding outside sometimes that is your only option.

This was the only thing I could get on back bank wide band O2 on the wife's minivan Now all I need to work on is the 4000 square foot garage, lift, scan tool, corvette, experience, etc. etc. etc....

Thanks Dale. That looks perfect. A couple of guys on LS1TECH managed to make it work without the right most tensioner, but people questioned whether there was enough belt area contacting the water pump pully and the crank pully to be effective. Your set up definitely covers the water pump. I assume the car is on the road so no problems? The slickest I have seen so far was this set up The guy had to machine a new water pump impeller so he could spin it backwards. Here is the link. Beyond what I can do. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450927&highlight=alternator+impeller

Anyone know a clean way to mount just an alternator and mechanical water pump on an LSX series motor? Want to get rid of the power steering pump, and wouldn't mind deleting one or more of the idlers in the process. Have been searching both hear and on LS1TECH.com but can't seem to find what I want. Do the serpentine belts come in different lengths? Anyone know a source for info on belt lengths?

I think you are right. somewhere I saw a write up on the installation and Ross bragged that the old arms are cut away allowing the new ones to be installed without removing the pins from the strut. Must be a local thread somewhere because it is not on the MM website.

Other way around. 75 mph for the first hour, 80 mph for the second, etc. With a constant acceleration the speed would gradually increase for the first hour resulting in a shorter trip. Yeah, two ways it could be done. Set the accel = 5mph/hr then plug and chug, or just add up the distance traveled at a constant speed each hour until you get 3000 miles. Don't make it any more complicated than that.

Go the the top of the Non-Tech forum and read the annoncement labeled HYBRID Z CLASSIFIEDS RULES - READ BEFORE POSTING!

And my answer is yes, otherwise you will not draw a vacuum on the crankcase

I have seen cars where the PCV valve got clogged with oil and they most definitely did blow oil out the dipstick tube. The car had a few miles on it, so might only happen with an older engine. There is really no reason not to use a PCV valve. Better to have a slight vaccum in the crankcase then a positive overpressure from ring blowby. The vaccum will help seal the rings.

Just good ol' boys, Wouldn't change if they could, Fightin' the system like a true modern day Robin Hood.

I agree. 300 HP with the ice. Less without.

Sounds exactly like what Pete Paraska went through with his Z. In his case, it was the gas tank liner coming loose and blocking the fuel inlet. If you have a piece of debris floating around your tank, it will run until the piece gets sucked up onto the inlet. Turning the pump off lets the debris float away, then gives you some good run time before it eventualy finds its way back to the inlet and blocks the fuel flow again. A blocked fuel line would also make the pump noisey.

There is something to be said for signing a guy you know you can sign. Even going second or third, Bush will probably command an even bigger payday. Gotta pay all that back rent on his parent's house.