Pop N Wood

My guess is you really didn't fix anything, just taped over your exhaust leak. Keep an eye on the tail pipe. If it keeps blowing blue smoke on start up, that usually tells me the valve guide seals are leaking.

Hate to say it guys, but to me that thing is butt ugly. Priced extremely well, though. I wouldn't mind owning one if it didn't look so bloated and cartoonish.

I looked into insurance with a company called JC Taylor. They were dirt cheap, but said I could only use the car for parades and club events. They said my insurance would be no good if I decided to make a quick run to the store on a weekend. Ended up getting regular insurance with Gieco for $300/year.

Maybe that should tell you something. You could bolt a gas powered leaf blower to your intake too. That would be different. Still doesn't make it a good idea.

AFR makes a damn nice set of LT1-LT4 heads. Pricey, but hard to beat performance wise.

A good topic of discussion, but it depends on what you want to use the car for. For an autoXer, you probably want to go with a non-speed rated tire because they are generally lighter. An autoX car will never see sustained speeds, so the speed rating can be a waste of money. My understanding is that it is accumulated heat that makes tires fail at speed. So if you only run at high speeds for short periods of time and/or your car is significantly below the load rating of the tire, then you don't need to match the rated speed to the clockwise peg on your speedo.

Wearing a beanie or a do rag helps keep sweat from rolling down a bald head and into my eyes. Have to be careful of reflections. My brother once got a bad case of flash burn in his eyes when he first started welding inside a stainless steel tank. The welding light went off the back of the tank, then the inside of his face sheild and into his eyes. He now wears a beekeeper looking hood.

Yeah, I have no idea how good that particular tire is. But the tire rack search function in pretty easy to use. Maybe you will find something better in a slightly different size. BTW, you can always mount the raised white letters on the inside.

tire rack lets you search by tire size and performance type http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SearchTires.jsp Tires for size 265/50-15 Search New Size Search by Vehicle Performance Category: All Brands: All Speed Ratings: All Run-Flat: Included Results: 1 - 1 of 1 that fit your search criteria. Dunlop GT Qualifier T (Performance All-Season) Overview | Specs | Warranty | Reviews | Survey Results Sidewall Style: Raised White Letters Size: 265/50TR15 Serv. Desc: 99T Price: $83.00 Estimated Availability: In Stock Road Hazard Program $39.84 total with four tire purchase

Hate to keep harping on this. It may not "be worth it", but it is the going rate at salvage yards these days. I called the other day about an 37K mile, LS1/T56 out of an 01 Camaro and they wanted $6100. The F body combos are getting more expensive every day. Even the ebay jobbers are asking more for these packages.

But the mass flow rate through the engine is the same, so I would think the more time the coolant spends in the raditor the more heat you can suck out of it. Of course if you slow the coolant down so much that it transitions from a turbulent to laminar flow....

How about that guy who mounted a bolt at the end of the MC to "reduce firewall flex"?

Good info. Thanks

Do a search on the magic gas cocktail to reduce emissions. What is it, Toluene ? Actually just do a normal tune up so it runs right and chances are you will minimize the emissions.

So what do we call guys who put wings on German cars? Bratwursters?

If you read some of the recent threads where people have welded their R180's, I think the correct answer ot the title question is much longer than the halfshafts.

Can't you hook up a vacuum line up stream of the turbo?

Well, yeah. Need an alternator. But correct me if I am wrong but won't you also need a few other pieces to hook up the serpentine belt? How easy is it to delete the AC/ PS pump and any idler pulleys? Does the crate engine come with all the brackets and bolts? Also most crate engines seem to come with an automatic flex plate, so need to source a manual flywheel. Probably want a starter too. Pull outs usually throw in a driveshaft so need to source one of those, or at least the yokes. T56 clutches are expensive. SDPS has this engine for $5495, but no harness or computer http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/272467/Production-LS1-Crate-Engine-Minus-ECM-Wire-Harness.htm Here is one that adds the computer and harness for $6,895 http://skillmanracingparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=2LM&Category_Code=GPE I imagine the shipping will be a few hundred at least. Could any body give me an itemized list of what it would cost to add all the missing pieces? Only reason I ask is I estimated I can do an entire swap for $8K and budgeted $4500 for the engine/tranny pull out . But I am also seriously interested in an LS2 crate engine ($5700 in the link below), but figure by the time I add all the missing pieces my $4500 engine/tranny estimate will be be over $8K by itself. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/272567/LS-364-440-Carbureted-Crate-Engine.htm What am I missing? Can't figure out how I would get a new engine and used T56 for less than $8K. Why is it such a bad deal to drop 4 or 5 thousand on a low mile pull out?

Yeah, and let me tell you guys it isn't all bed and roses having more than 8 inches. Bigger isn't always better.

Yes to 1 and 3, my guess no to 2. First things first, clean the battery posts with wire brush (whether they look clean or not) then make absolutely certain the grounds are good and negative battery post is solidly attached to the block/starter. To test the solenoid, try jumpering the contacts with a screwdriver.

But then used T56 trans are going for upwards of $2K. Also the crate LS1 doesn't include all the other accessories needed to complete the engine. The small stuff adds up quick. I have seen complete pull out prices that range from about $2400 for a high mileage 98 with auto trans to $4500-$6000 for a lower mile, 02 with manual trans. Anything with GTO on it, even the LS1 variants, command a higher premium.

25 year old vehicles usually don't turn out to be the most reliable of daily drivers.

From everything I have read, make sure you upgrade your pushrods with stronger units. The stock LS1 pushrods are said to be marginal at best.

I have a 175 amp DC MIG, but have yet to turn the heat setting all the way up. Smaller amp welders usually have a low setting that is rated for thinner gage metal. I think getting a DC welder is actually more important than the max amp range. I like 220 V just because it doesn't dim the house lights like a 110 V unit can.

You put twin turbo's on a cage?