Pop N Wood

If 3200 includes the price of the car, then no. There have been a few documented cases of swaps for as little as $1500. But in your case with an unknown car, I would say that is asking alot. Like suggested above, read a few threads and find out. BTW, if the car is truely rust free and only needs engine work to get started, then $1800 is a steal. If the dash is uncracked and the bumpers straight, then that is over half the purchase price right there. "Rust free" is a relative term that depends on whether the person is buying or selling. Too many guys have gone to look at "rust free" cars only to find cars with gaping holes in the floor boards. Keep in mind these cars are OLD. I have owned my California born 71 for 18 years, the last 6 of which have been garaged. I am starting to work on it and finding that every piece of rubber I touch virtually disintegrates. That car will almost certainly need new weatherstrip, seals, fresh brakes, steering rack boots, firewall grommets and most importantly, new gas tank vent hoses. The gas fumes will kill you otherwise. On the plus side, complete, running 240 engines can be had for as little as $500. I might even have one for sale soon. But even with all that, such an old car may prove to be a less than reliable daily driver. You will have to work on it to keep in going. My suggestion would be to LOOK AT THE CAR CAREFULLY. Then if you buy it see if you can get it running somewhat reliably on L6 power first.

You think your SPEC clutch failure was bad? http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508237&highlight=ls7+clutch Just keep ditch water handy.

My 145 amp welder runs on a 30 amp outlet. I have a 55 amp subpanel in the garage, fed with 4 gauge wire from the main panel 85 feet away. I have a separate 30 amp breaker in the subpanel with maybe 25 feet of 10 guage wire feeding the welder outlet. It would have to be a pretty big mofo welder to need a 50 amp outlet. If you can afford that much welder you can afford to hire an electrictian and have it done right. The hot-tub writeups I told you about will give you info on the correct wire size and the 4 wire requirement to wire a subpanel. Really, putting a subpanel with separate breakers in the garage is the only way to go. Most tools run better on 220V and it is nice to have the breakers handy. I have separate breakers for the compressor, radial arm saw, welder and the shop lights/outlets.

Just to be a PITA, you need to heat the housing to expand it and minimize how much you heat the pin itself. Got the job done eitherway.

To mount my ignition box I bolted a flat piece of aluminim stock to the radiator mounting blots and mounted the box to the side of the radiator opening behind the grill. I kind of bent the aluminum so it held the box away from the sheet meta. 18 years later the box is ready to come off for the LS1 swap. I have known other guys who mounted it in the cowl like dat249zg did. that is a pretty slick way to do it. Make use of the wasted space. a little harder to get to should you have any ingnition problems.

You just need to make sure the wire used to hook up the box is rated for the current draw of the welder. You then also need the correct size breaker in the main electrical box. Do a google search on wiring a hot tub. There are numerous on line write ups that should tell you everything you need to keep from hurting something. I would strongly suggest doing the more permanent solution from the get go. The problem with "just for now" solutions is it becomes too easy to keep using them.

Are you some kind of modern day Malcom X who sat down and read the Wikipedia instead of the dictionary?

Looks like fun.

Don't laugh. I watched Herbie Fully Loaded just last night. Those movies are the death of me. My kids think the two most desireble cars made are the new Beetle (cause their Mom's first car was a beetle) and a PT Cruiser (cause that is what both of their grandma's have). I'll turn them around. My 9 year old daughter is watching me pull the motor on the Z "because it isn't big enough".

You know you guys have a point here. Previously I have only heard of this type of results when using unobtainium mixed with Magnegas. But I think an Aquygen induced catylitic conversion could be used with the 150 bar oxygen to cheaply produce TriTanium. And for you guys looking for the automotive applications, here it is from a respectable news source http://www.wave3.com/global/story.asp?s=4934566&ClientType=Printable The gas mileage increases are truely impressive. I hope they solve the engine corrosion problem soon. Further prove that this is real, I checked with the US patent office and a patent has officially been filed on this device. From this site http://patucawarrior.efx2.com/my/category/HHO%20-%20Aquygen/ Damn. Wonder how much weight I can take off the Z by only having a 4 ounce water tank instead of a 16 gallon gas tank? And to the buffoons who thought you need special glasses to weld with Aquygen, check out this site http://mcmachete.blogspot.com/ Wonder what those solar panels on my roof will do my CD? Maybe I could build one in the shape of a ricer wing and power southern New Jersey? Exciting times we live in guys!!! Wow! turns out this has been done before http://www.energyoptions.com/tech/browns.html Aquygen = browns gas Worse yet, the fing Chinese are all set to corner the market! Since Clinton banned the importation of Norinco pistols I guess they had to find greener fields. http://www.eagle-research.com/browngas/machine/bnseries/bnser1.html Wow. Here is a whole web site of HHO torches http://www.watertorch.com/links/links1.html Boy. These eggheads don't seem to think much of Aquygen or browns gas http://www.phact.org/e/bgas.htm

I am pretty sure that is a Boeing/NASA joint test bed being used to study wings for the next generation space shuttle.

Old bed frames make good metal sources. Best bet is to find a recycle yard that lets you buy scrap metal. Far and a way the cheapest way to stock up on metal.

You have to make sure you prep the concrete properly. Usually means washing it with an acid solution (muriactic sp?). They usually tell you on the instructions. If the concrete is properly cleaned and porous, then even a floor enamel should hold up well.

Well, for anyone's future reference, when replacing O2 sensors make sure you secure the wires so they can't fall against the hot exhaust manifolds and melt the wires. Was easier to fix the second time around then I would have thought.

Do a quick google search on e85. Basically the car has to be set up for it when it was built. Ford and a couple of other manufactures make flexible fuel vehicles standard issue on certain models.

You guys want a proven way to reduce the money you spend on fuel? No hydrogen hocus pocus or sales pitches that violate the laws of physics? Do it the Tennesse way. Build your own still. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/12801825/ I didn't realize the Model T was original built to run on alcohol.

Well you have sure helped me out. Looks like the driver's side needs to come out farther back like the JTR headers do or they will interfere with the steering shaft, and in this case the JCI mounts. that is a pretty good pick of the JCI mounts too. Thought I could save 5 bills on the headers.

I just got the crate motor pic from the Pace auto web site. I was actually hoping to use the JCI kit to mount it. From zeeman's post, it looks like the pipes may dump out in a good spot fore and aft, bu looks like they will dump right into the frame rails. Kind of hard to tell how far above the rails the exits are. The manifolds look like they have some nice thick head flanges on them. Wonder if they could be angle milled to gain clearance? thanks for the posts guys.

I guess I hadn't seen that. Your right. It is free energy. Just burn the fuel in a hydrogen powered engine, have it run an alternator, use the electricity from the upgraded alternator and extra storage batteries to generate additional HHO from a bottle of Evian, then use the HHO to power the engine. Never have to fill the tank again! I guess all one would have to do is park on a hill to get the whole process started, then it is all free energy after that! If you bolt on one of those 200 MPG carburetors and a Magnetic Cyclonification device, you could probably generate enough excess energy to put the local nuc plant out of business. Just put some solar panels on the top of the car and power them backwards so the excess energy gets pumped back into the sun for storage.

You guys do realize that they don't burn water as fuel. They use electricity as the fuel. The welder is 220 volt. Tells me it probably draws some pretty serious current. So take in 4 kilowatts of electrical energy (20 amps at 220V) and get lets say 2 kilowatts of heat from the burning hydrogen. The real trick is getting people to think you have actually accomplished something unique. My guess is that is why they haven't concentrated on transportation applications. Kind of hard to drive any distance while dragging a 220V extension cord. And I don't care what you do to pure water. Short of cold fusion, the only thing you will get out of it is hydrogen, oxygen or some combination of the two. Still a pretty good trick. An electric powered hydrogen torch. Not sure how paying 7 grand for a torch that has to be plugged in is better than paying $500 for a MIG that plugs into the same outlet, but still pretty interesting.

I have also heard that the glare from an unpainted hood was overwhelming.

Never severed my thumb, but I did shave half the thickness of my left social finger off with a radial arm saw. No surgery. It more or less grew back. It really gets your attention when you see that line of blood splatter against the old saftey glasses. Ah yes, where would we men be without our significant others?

Anyone know if the redesigned LS2 exhaust manifolds can be made to work in a Z? Saw a hot rod mag that shows the LS2 manifolds have been redesigned. They look like a shortened center dump version of the LS2 Vette manifolds. I can't see the other side of this motor, but the output flange angle doesn't look too much different than the JTR LS1 header.

That first link looks like a nice V8Z. One big issue: map quest Kenner LA.

There is something extremely fishy about that site. They list all these products and make all these claims about what they can do, but none of their products are actually available yet, all the prices are approximate, they say don't call them because all of their info is on the web site and yet their web site is basically nothing but a top level sales brochure. Plus they cry "the government" is trying to shut them down. Plus their claim that there solar generator will make hydrogen "at near zero cost" is totally moronic. They don't have a price on their hydrogen generator, but they do sell 80 watt solar panels (at $425 each) and say it takes a minimum of 5 to run the hydrogen generator. With only 400 watts of output and figure a 70% hydrogen conversion efficiency, that $2125 solar panel + hydrogen generator might kick out enough hydroden to equal about a gallon of gas a week. And that is only if the sun shines all week. This link http://www.aip.org/tip/INPHFA/vol-10/iss-1/p20.html talks about hydrides and says a tank large enough to hold 5 kg of hydrogen (maybe 10 gallons of gas) weights 360 kg. Did they really add a 1500+ pound tank to that vette to get their 450 mile range?