NorwegianZED

How are the framrails and the floors? seriously interested, the model year makes it alot easier to modify and register over here and i am having trouble with the one i have(73). Do you have more pictures? Are there any major issues that are easily identified? I wont be using the engine, gearbox or diff so theire condition does not matter. The interior is of little interest as well. I could use a helping hand getting it to either of Newark NJ, Baltimore MD, Charleston SC, Brunswick GA if i where to buy it(obviously to the closest port). Need some papers with it(title) as well.

Oops, wrong thread

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Thank you

Could you explain that cam timing bit? That is very interesting to me

Don't know myself, but since it can crack, it is flexing a little. Right? If it where to be welded in place, would it flex somewhere else and maybe crack the windshield?

Do tell!

Yes What Dexter said I am willing to put Money on it, and since I don't know what you did and didn't do. 1$ in the Pot, any takers?

that was actually awsome! I like the way it lifts! and the engine i the first movie looked clean! I Stil won't do that to myself or my Z

Electronics? There is not alot of it on a mechanical fuel pump. You have the glow plugs/pre heating, the alternator(usually 90A) needs 3 wires and optionally a fourth for rpm, the temp sensor, oil pres. sensor There is a tempsensor on the fuelpump, but i am not certain you need it if you go with a universal glow relay. Pretty sure that is it, the rest is vacume controled, the rest being stopping, pump controll and gearbox controll. thats of the top of my head without going outside to look If you go with a OM606, you get electronics on the pump, but the 603 pump is interchangable with the 606 pump so the problem goes away again. The 606 is exactly the same as 603 with regards to boltpattern on the transmission end and engine mount. it has a more modern head with two cams (om603 has one) and it has 24 valves(603 -> 12) a stock 3 liter 606 delivers 177hp, a 603 3liter is 136hp, 603 3.5L is 156hp. Needless to say, the 606 is a generation newer, and offers better fuel economy with more tourqe and power. If you like to read: www.superturbodiesel.com knock yourself out and just for fun, youtube: Blacksmoke racing he is running a 606, or at least it started life as a 606. Also Göran, known as Dieselmeken on that site, can do whatever you want to a 603 pump. He has his own site www.dieselmeken.se Honestly, if the goal is a wicked good fuel economy, it is going to be hard to beat a Vag 1,9tdi without going to battery power

Sooooo, use an Anglegrinder with a sandpaper or wire disk to find the actual leadfilled seem? Melt the lead away, drill the spotwelds, preferably with a spotweld drill bit, make sure to use a tapper to make guideholes. Then off she comes? Or, is the skin glued as well? Is there a trick to get it loose after the welds are gone? I am thinking of gluing the roof back on using Tec 7, i have used Tec 7 with great sucsess on other cars, but i am slightly reluctant being creativ on the Zed Will there be drawbacks to my master plan? the reason i am thinking of this solution is that i am slightly reluctant to weld, i have little experience with thinsheet welding, and i dont have a spotwelder on hand. I do have a stick welder and MIG/MAG. Then again... Holes from the spotwelds..

I was thinking of buying that VDO set on Ebay, With the sensors, how is the quality on that set?

I have to do the same thing, are there leaded seems on the a pilars as well? or does it require cutting?

Great What about service intervalls? Does anyone know?

looks good, all i takes is a teny tiny leap of faith i might get myself one of those when my dailydriver turbo fails. i have one reservation only, oil leaks in the turbo is less of a problem than a water leak, at least in my head... or did i miss something important? also, what are the service intervals on greasing the bearings?

Kcco

After talking to a few z guys today, i got two different answers. One says, that my 40s would do fine, arguing that it is a street engine. This guy has spent years restoring these cars and owns and races them as well. Does custome work and in general knows what he is on about. The other guy pointet me in the direction of very affordable options at www.jenvey.co.uk i am looking into that now. I don't know how the engine runs, as it isn't in either my car or garage. I am only getting a basic engine, without any fuel deliverysystem at all. I can use what is on my l24, teeny tiny 40mm or i can sell that setup with one of the engines going out of the garage. The engine comes with a mild cam i a mildly modified head, i have a very modifyed head with more aggressive cam on tha shelf. Right nowni am leaning towards itb setup, but i am unfamiliar with what modifications i need to do to get it working. I am not afraid of fabrication or electricity, but what i just don't know, can i stil run with dizzy ignition, do i need coil packs? Do i need sensors on the crank and cam? Do i have quick and easy options? And so on... Still, i love my triples as they are on the l24. Aha... I think your experiences with itbs are compelling tony. Mmmmm. I better do some research, but i am betting i will end up with efi

I am looking for good options on how to feed a 3.0l stroker. I have concluded that my dhla40 won't be enough, not even maxed out as they are now. By maxed out i mean they can't possibly send more fuel through. I was thinking of dcoe 45 or 50, then i found out what that would cost me. And i am wondering how much would a complete itb setup cost? I would need everything that isn't on a stock n/a engine What do you think?

i'll take them Give me a call, i sent you my number

Hi! Send me a pm

I can't tell you to much about the car or the engine, but i'll second on the description of the gearbox, my dd G350 has the same box. It needed an overhaul two years ago for the mentioned faults, this set me back about 2000dollars. It works fine now and it is ready for 10 new years of abuse for the most part my experience with MB is one of great quality, i have owned four different G-class vehicles and i am looking for a new one. i think it is around the years of the w140 that MB had low quality metal in their cars, this makes them more prone to rust. the engines are mostly bulletproof.

Turn your engine to timing marks for ignition on cylinder one specs, mount the distributor and see where the rotor is in relation to the cylinder one lead? Thats what i would do anyway What are you worried about? As far as i know it is not critical timing on this axel, it runs the oilpump and the distributor. The oilpump doesnt care about timing and the distributor is very much adjustable. Slap it together adjust the ignition and be on you merry way

I love the current one, especially the zr1. But this new one is awsome

Thanks, i do need an engine harness, but it needs to be atached to the rest of the cars harnes and i am running carbs so the engine bit is the least of my concerns thanks for offering though

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