spacecase70

this is a fantastic build! i live up in the high desert above you and i hope to see it when you finish it!

these scoops are for function as well as looks

======================================================= IT IS A NEVER ENDING STORY...........**PROJECT**:mrgreen::mrgreen:

Here, HERE!!

thats because he used a gto hood scoop for the center part of the hood lol and hand beat the hood for the firebird hood scoops fairing it looks a whole lot better in person for sure

it will only be available in glass we dont have any experiance in CF and the price will be around 300.00 the prototype is in steel and it is hand made so we are going to be making a mold from the steel one when it is totall finished which will be very soon. we will be pulling a mold from it after it is smoothed and finished this is just the rough in of the hood and i apologize for any confusion the title has caused! till then I hope you all will be lieniant with me and Bartmerr

I will try to get a bigger pic of the hood on later today

This is a custom ONE OFF hood that a friend of mine has made and is willing to reproduce in glass if anyone is interested. Here is a pic. just click on the thumbnail the man in pic is the creator of the hood:burnout:

no, it will run fine on regular unleaded.

I have a 76 all srock and the tach likes to fall to zero some times and then it will bounce between zero and the correct rpm. i have replaced the transistorized ignition unit under the dash on the passenger side with one from a 77 and that seems to work alot better than the dual pu unit i had in it plus i did cahange the dual dizzy to single and hooked it ap accordingly( found out if i hooked up the white wire the car wont shut off!) after i did that the problem went away, as well as the performance returned! performance is still good but now the tach is bouncing again, now that i have bored you with the history here's the question i need answered... where is the resistor located on the car for the tach???? it is the only thing i havent replaced because i cannot find it:sad:? help please?? I searched and could not find any info on the location nor does my books show the location

I have been running it now for a month and no real problems at all to report! it runs cool(surprised in the desert), gets decent milage, and it uses about a quart of oil a week... the last is not good. but i dont have the funds to do the bottomend right now but i will get it done. I have decided to use my N42 head for the turbo build when i do it.

I live in phelan just up the hill from you and we have a small z shop here its about 25 minites from you. call 662 3006 ask for bart

try putting a restricter in the return hose and see if that helps and make sure it has a hole about 1/8 in. to give it the restriction, again just a thought

just a thought, dont you have to mill down the lower mounting ears to 1/2 inch to be able to bolt it together?

that is F***in tight!!! i love the idea! keep up the good work and i cannot wait to see and hear it run!

no secret just know what i am looking at and i can identify the manifolds in the second pic in the ad so if the price does not get too high i would probably go for them, if i had the money that is lol

DUDE !!!!!!!!! Great job kiking that srt's butt!!!

the manifolds were with the carbs i just looked at the first one and i saw them

contact braap he could give you the advice on the head work!

what carbs does it have on it? flat tops or rounded tops? i fits the flat then you need to find a set of round tops and replace them, if rounded then you main jet may have come loose and needs to be reinstalled. get a rebuild kit for an earlier z if you do have the early carbs. and make sure everything is absolutely clean when you rebuild them. just a thought from my exp from my 73 i had

go for the Holset HY35, you cant beat that one!

also check your FPR(fuel pressure regulator) and make sure your not losing fuel pressure you may also have a bad fuel damper, it is located right next to the fuel pump in front of the gas tank

the smoke i saw looks just the way mine looks! I rebuilt my head and the same problem still ensued, so i think Daeron though of the oil control rings losing their tension is a strong probability. mine has great compression too but it still burns oil. when i pulled the head off i found oil on top of the valves both intake(not much) and exhaust( a lot more wet) I hope i have been helpful and I know Daeron has givin me some insight on this problen too. thanks D! P.S. oil smoke has a light blue tint, water looks more white, and gas or fuel rich is black,and lean is a grey color

it was pertaining to the resistors, sorry for the confusion