SDgoods

Im in san diego and went through many issues like this if youd like i can come take a look. Where in sd are you? What year eccs are you running? I have 2 81 ecus and an afm can test.

Thanks bud... thread- http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112843-my-l28et-240z-on-refinished-hayashi-503s/ OP- Did you decide on a setup?

Thanks! I ended up getting the z31 ecu/maf issues figured out thanks for your help

Comes on the scca autopower roll bar. Its actually for sale as the high back angled bride sits too close to it for comfort. Sale thread in parts for sale forum!

Thank you! Im now doing a half cage instead of the roll bar. Id like to continue building the suspension as it will be an auto-x car. And get the z31 ecu/maf running correctly as it runs pig rich and gets terrible mileage right now thanks! thanks appreciate the kind words!

Car is not done by any means but this is where it's at.... Chassis has 77k original miles on it, its been in socal its whole life and I have pics and paper work from the day it was sold in 73. Im the 3rd owner!

Freshly refinished Hayashi Perrier 503's by HRE wheels Polished/clearcoated lips and powder coated centers porcelain white/clear coated

universal magnaflow... nothing special

PMd you

If everything is fine while another car is running (charging) your battery, it sounds like an alternator problem. The other cars battery isn't magically fixing a blown fusible link.

My 73 l28ET on freshly refinished hayashi 503's

looks fantastic. what are your wheel and tire specs?

Pming you

Still lookin!

Still lookin for one!

The idle was also inconsistent and had to be set high to stay alive. It would jump all over the place

Well im about ready to give up. I actually drove the car yesterday after finding a broken cas ground wire. It revved up smoothly but driving would hesitate bad and was running lean through out the range, 18+ pinning my wideband lean. For some reason it still likes the old maf and didnt like the remanufactured and other known good one. Oddly it also likes the ecu coil signal on the - thats supposed to be on the +. Im trading someone an 84 ecu for my 87 but am getting quite discouraged as i feel this is an unadjustable system that im throwing unnkown components at. I dont see how some guys hook it up and just like that it runs almost flawlessly.

I attempted to read the output signal but only with a volt meter. Unfortinately dont have an o-scope. also wasnt sure which was the signal wire just guessed based on the volta but ill find out for sure and test again. Any idea wht it should be at idle? Ive heard .7 - .8 volts

I dont have a smoke machine nor does my friends' shop where the car is right now. I would suspect your suspicions more, but the car ran prior to the ecu swap and the intercooler/hose setup hasn't been touched except for the throttle body hose which we've tested with carb cleaner for leaks. The maf is maybe 6 inches in front of the compressor inlet with an aluminum pipe seperating the two. I dont think its the MAF not getting the signal as much as it putting out a correct signal.

I'm starting a new thread as my last thread was flooded and new problems have risen. 73 240z with 81' l28et swap, z31 ECU, MAF. and degree wheel. Mods- Aeromotive trick flow FPR (set at 30ish psi with vacuum connected) (disconnected sits at 40+) TRE 255lph fuel pump with surge tank Custom fuel feed line, stock feed line used as return line Front mount intercooler Some cheap BOV P/O installed MSA Downpipe with AEM Wideband uego sitting ~6 inches from the stock 02 sensor location 3" custom after the downpipe Aftermarket Coil, NGK spark plug wires. HKS EVC boost controller ** Aftermarket Throttle switch p/o wired in* Initially the chain had skipped some teeth so it wasnt running..Replaced all timing components and Leakdown and compression checked out. I have 2 ECU's and 3 MAFS: Car will idle with my 87 turbo ECU and 86 MAF (that actually tested bad as 2 pins didn't have continuity, while one of the other MAF's tested good but wont run) The idle sounds great but the AFR's are sporadic from 13-16 and timing jumps all over the place. With ANY throttle, it hesistates badly to rev, cutting out and missing as revs climb (although they do climb) Vacuum starts to drop off. I've sprayed carb cleaner through out the Intake manifold, cant find any vacuum leaks. Sometimes if it idles long enough it will eventually lean out and die. I suspect Its a bad MAF problem but don't want to spend more money throwing parts at it. Any input would be great.

I asked the same thing a while back. it comes down to what YOU are willing to pay for a given engine. Of course there are 'going rates' but what is it worth to you to have to piece together an engine or get a complete package? ^^ FWIW In Socal when I was looking i couldn't find anything nearly as low as A lot of these said prices. Just plan it all out and do your research and see what works better for you, to piece it together or buy as a package

I have several years experience working on cars as well as formal training and. Thats why im frustrated it doesnt usually take me this long to figure out. It has fuel/fuel pressure. It has spark, it has air. I believe the ecu is getting a bad signal. I now have a known good maf. Considering the ecu is now showIng a CAS circuit malfunction, i will re test it one more time and probably grab a sensor regardless. This has been frustrating because all of this supposedly came off a running car. So i had to learn it was bad the hard way.

Very frustrated at this point. Still not running. With the new MAF it started to idle (while missing quite bad). I thought maybe the ecu didn't want to output correctly as iit also had a fuel pump circuit code so I ended up wiring the FPR through the ECU like the stock setup but it wouldn't run either and the FPR would buzz off its ass. Undid the wiring and now it fires up for literally a second or less and pretty much immidiately dies. Still getting a crank sensor circuit code but I dont understand why as everything has continuity. The only other thing I can think of is the lack of wire shielding in a couple very small portions of wire on the MAF and CAS circuits. My previous setup ran fine even with rigged connectors for the CAS. Can anyone who has DONE THIS SWAP please chime in. Really not sure where to look next

^^ thank you, that could very well be my issue! I appreciate it!

Thanks that would be great. Like i said in my earlier post, I tested at the maf and then did the same tests at the ECU connector of the same circuits and got the same numbers so it cancelled out the wiring being bad.