Lockjaw

NO you don't need to take the dash out, just remove the speedo cable, and get the seal replaced at the tranny. I think if you pull the thing the actual cable part comes out, and you can clean it up and then push it back in. Just don't kink it. The part you need fits inside the speedo cable at the tranny, and they dealer will have to pull it up on the computer and look at it. Just get every little part down there that goes betweem the speedo cable and the drive gear in the tranny. It cannot be very expensive. Then march in there and slap that service guy in the head and tell him he is a dumb anus.

I believe the concept behind the split fire was the V in the electrode gave the spark better access to the mixture, hence more power. I ran them once, and I liked them, but now I run a dual electrode plug, which is easy to index. The Iridium plugs are supposed to be worth a few HP, but I have not decided to pay that much for a plug until I know for sure they work.

You should have seen some of the responses I got. Wait I will post one. This is me: You are being scammed this is a ripoff. NOS is pressurized at 900 psi, do you think a plastic fan can overcome 900 psi? Ripoff.. This is the person I sent the email to: I dont have NOS. Id like for you to email me back and let me know anything about it (the plastic fan) i.e. how much boost is it making in psi not cfm.

Well after trying 3 different radio shacks I finally got my diode. I have decided I hate radio shack. They are on you when you walk in the door, and I don't need them looking over my shoulder. Just tell me where it is, and leave me alone.

No the cable is not supposed to have fluid in it, the reason it does is because fluid is getting by something. The cheapest thing there is that grommet or whatever it is. If that does not fix your fluid creep, you will have to replace the speedo cable and/or the drive gear in the tranny. Graphite is the proper lubrucant for the cable. Your speedo issue is likely due to your changing of either the trans or the diff, and one doesn't match the other. Ie the drive gear in the trans doesn't match the diff that is in the car. You may also have much shorter or taller tires on the back of your car too. If you have a turbo ZX and you put one of the 130 mph speedo's out of the 79 ZX in it, it won't read right either.

Maybe we should all take up a collection and send a P90 and an N42 to Sunbelt, have them port them equally, and mill the P90 to where it has equal CC's on the combustion chamber that the N42 has. Then we will drop it on an engine with the same camshaft, springs, etc, and see what happens. Anyone want to donate? If you don't thats fine, but it all boils down to personal opinion. I like mine you like yours, and that is that.

YEah try the grommet and see what that does. Make sure the cable is tight where it attaches to the tranny.

Well then that sucks. I have a set of 3 bolt and 4 bolt, and the 4 bolt ones don't run as good as the 3 bolt ones. I have never seen 3 bolt one's that I can recall until this set I got. I did drop test them before I put them on, and they were fine, so I don't think I have any contact. I got to see about some velocity stacks now. Anyone tried the ones from Victoria British? They are alot cheaper then the one's from MSA. Wonder if they will fit under my aircleaners?

HEy when you have that much HP, I guess you can throw a little away and not sweat it.

Ask him if it turns out to be the cable will he fix it for free and see what he says. How are you going to get antifreeze over on that side of the car?

Your dealer is an idiot. A speedo cable is much like a fine thread flexible screw that turns. Gear oil also has additives in it to help it creep, kind of like in the Lucas Oil Stabilizer displays you see in the auto parts stores. Once you start driving your car, the constant turning of the speedo cable will carry oil to the back of the speedometer, where it drips out. Clutch master or brake master will leak down the firewall. The seal is something you have to get from the dealer. Check and make sure the cable is snug down there. It could be loose also.

You have to put that 10 hp into perspective though Pete. If you have a 180hp engine, and pick 10 hp, that is a ton when you are dealing with a 2.8 liter engine. I think there may be a little more difference then that, I was thinking perhaps 15hp, but either way, people have won a lot of races on a less than 10 hp advantage. I will take 10 free hp anyday.

Actually, i think if you get the 89 240sx tb, the shaft is the same diameter as the stock one, so you just swap the ends on the shafts, and bolt it up. You need the spacer though. That is the way mine is and it was an easy swap. Helps performance too.

Hey the V8 guys were in another post too, on this board, so I had to remind them which board they were on.

I think you will find that the P90 is superior. But the results should be interesting just the same.

Tony, You have mail.

Wrong, the winner depends on your application and technical expertise. That said, if you want to run an N42, hey I am all for it. I'm not gonna yet. Oh and if you have a P90 on your car now, and think you may sell it when you convert, how about giving me a shot at it?

Plugged it? Solder is a wonderful thing.

I am pretty sure the 3 bolt ones are the valuable ones. Mine have the drain on the bowl which according to what I was reading on the ZT website makes them the rare ones. I need to get a set of air horns. Victoria British has them and they are cheaper than anywhere else, but I haven't tried them. I like the ones MSA has on the website to. I need to order a set.

Well I went thru a set just like on the video, spent about 4 hours working on them and got everything balanced, and they worked ok. But on this engine, I could never get it to run properly, so I switched to this set that came on a 2.6 I bought, and it runs way better, but I haven't done anything with them. I am really thinking about getting a set of Z therapy bodies with the new shafts in them and then putting all my balanced up stuff on them, but I think if I was going to go thru all that I might as well fuel inject it. I also know where a set is that has to be from Z therapy, so I may go get those and try them and see what is up with that.

I want fuel injection.

Well I don't have an MSD yet, although I was looking for one on ebay the other day. If I could get around the freakin resistor, I would be way ahead of the game. Norm you also have a bigger engine then I do. Maybe I should run some sort of heavier fluid to dampen the pistons. I am using ATF now, again per Z therapy. I have the N36 intakes too, and the K&N filters, but no velocity stacks yet. I think I even have a set of the more valuable 3 bolt SU's. They are not like the other one's. They have a big adjustment knob but it is thin, and there is a tab that keeps it locked in place.

When I was running Sm needles, my plugs were black, sooty black, and that is adjusted per the Z therapy video . I have switched to another set that is leaner, but I have not checked or driven the car enough for them to clean the plugs. I mainly have the car idling in the driveway since it hasn't been driveable until lately, but it has been up and down the road, and up and down the interstate. If I can't get then right within reason, they will go up for sale, and either webers or fuel injection will go in their place. Maybe I can be like Norm and run 12's with FI.

It is most likely gear oil from your tranny migrating up the speedometer cable. There is some little seal that goes in where it connects to the transmission. Fix that, and your britches will remain clean. And BTW, that **** doesn't wash out, although some automotive degreaser like greased lightning will help, so don't wash it until you spray it. Spray and Wash won't put a dent in it. Your bill is in the mail.

Tom who are you talking too? Me and YO never got an answer back on the guy who posted he has an L9. I found one somewhere else.