Lockjaw

I am working on plumbing a spearco on my Zx and it has been a major haedache. Of course, if I wasn't using 2.5 in pipes it would have been easier. Napa has some heavy duty hose clamps that cost about 5 bucks a piece that work very well, and RRE has some stainless hose clamps that work real well too. You may or may not know this, but blowing an intercooler line is not good for your turbo, so I would make sure I had mine secured. I feel your pain, trust me.

The turbine housing on that turbo is way to large, you will have a hard time spooling it. A hybrid works fine, but you may need to look at upgrading the compressor wheel. At 14 psi, you aren't that high yet, and I would throw some more boost at it. Power with a stock cam is not going to be strong in the upper end, mine ran out of steam too, and you may need to look at a camshaft swap and or portwork. You need to know what you have to make a change. A stage 3 10 blade turbine wheel is nice and will drive most any wheel up to a 60-1, but I would step up to the stage 5 10 blade and run a 60-1 if you want to make some power. Stay away from the TO4B housing and run a TO4E. Personally I like having my boost come in low like that, mine was full on by 2800 and it hit like a freight train. If you can harness it, it is a lot of fun to drive one like that.

I never ever get over 20 mph with no O2 sensor connected, and 3.54's. With the 3.90's I just added, I expect it to be worse. I have the T5, and the JWT set-up with 420CC injectors and will be running the 4 bar map.

If you have a turbo trans, you can have the flywheel redrilled, run the 300ZXTT pressure plate, the 89 300ZXT disc, and you are good to go. I have had good luck with that combo so far. CF sucks. No doubt about it.

No it is modified more than you think it is. I personally wouldn't put much stock into anything Jim says, he is a pompous ass. You need the 4 bar map you have to much turbo for a 3 bar map, and you most definitely need the step added. Whoever sold you the system did not question you properly, and I would make that point to Clark, he is a good customer service oriented guy,, and should take care of you. If your head is ported, you could probably step up to a larger cam and pick up some performance. The stock cam for the Z's is small. I would also tell Clart how far the MAF is from the turbo, it is supposed to be at least 18 inches away, but he may be able to make some mods to your map to compensate. May take a few try's for him, but it can be done. Mine is out in front of the radiator. Make sure you have a good pump, and JWT has a good FPR made by Bosch that they can sell you that will help you raise the pressure and keep the stock 1 psi increase in fuel pressure increase per pound of boost. You are on the right track, it just takes a little work to get it dialed in. When it is there, you'll know it.

Look you can't expect to buy a box, throw it on your car and get 420 hp, you have to tune it, just like with a stand alone. Fortunately for you, several people have gone beyond your power level so Clark will have the data needed to help. Your mistake is dealing with Jim. Call Clark and he will take care of you, just realize he is the real brains behind the orgainization, not Jim. Also if you got 350 hp and your engine is stock, you are doing really well. You can get more, but you need to look at a cam change and some head work. The nicest thing about the JWT set-up besides stock like reliabilty is that once you are dialed in, making minor changes like swapping cams or turbo's don't monkey stuff up like they do when you have a speed density, which means you don't have to retune it. I like mine, but when I reach the end of what it will do, then I will go to a stand alone, until then, I will deal with Clark.

If you run a full T4, just run the .58 ar housing if you use the P trim. Personally, I would rather run a hybrid since that is where the technolgy is right now, the P trim wheels are old tech, and the new 10 blade stage V turbine wheels they are using in the hybrids are the way to go if you ask me.

What a bunch of nay sayers. Telling him to get a stand alone really helps when he has the JWT set-up. dynoing it with a wideband and sending the info to Clark will get it in the ballpark, and I dare say, he will do a better job getting things right then some novice trying to tune his stand alone. (I am not implying you are a novice) Tell the whole story about what you have to do to get the stand alone dialed in, its not plug and play. I am not knocking the stand alone, it is the best way to go, but its not for everyone. The simpliest solution is to call Clark and let him work with you to get the car dialed in. JeffP posted some big numbers with a smaller turbo then you have, there is no reason why you can't get similar numbers. You have to work on it, just like with a STAND ALONE.

To much pressure drop, IMO.

First of all James is right, properly prepped, the stock rods will live to 600 hp. Run forged pistons, ARP fasteners, get the head worked over by a professional, run a nice sized turbo, get good engine management, and you should be there. As for Scottie's comment, well I got a few things to say. First of all, there is a device called an electronic boost controller that allows you to manipulate your boost. Use it, and your 10 second car suddenly becomes more manageable on the street. Just don't drive it in the rain. Second, race gas at 4.50 a gallon isn't cheap, and most hyper fast turbo nissans run race fuel, so run pump gas and refer to my first comment. Finally if you want to build something that makes alot of power like you are talking about, get ready to spend some money. There are no cheap ways to do it. Its a lot of fun when you finish, but a pain in the butt when you are working on it.

I think what you really need is some closure. You never got to hear from the girl that SHE did not want to have anything to do with you, you heard from her mom. I have been there, I have done that, and sometimes I still wonder. Right now I am dealing with a spouse that has never committed our entire mariage and has decided to go for her second divorce, so I see all the things I should have seen that told me this person was not the one for me. My advice to you is this. Yes you have this woman pregnant, and you have a responsility to her and the child, but is there anything there that your gut tells you is messed up? Is there anything there you don't like but you think you can deal with later? Anything she doesn't want that you want and you think you can convince her later? If so, rethink your marriage plans. Also, my hot topic question. Ask your wife to be who her family is going to be once you are married. If the answer is not you and your baby, she is not the girl for you. Get some good pre-marital counseling, it is worth its weight in gold. Finally you cannot go back to the past. It is over and done with, and nothing will ever change that. You have to face the fact that this girl probably has had some issue's with the termination of the pregnancy (most women do regret it later on) and she has dealt with it and moved on. Seeing you will only dredge up those feelings, and she probably prefers to leave them where they are. Good luck with your current situation, and do talk to someone.

Replace the hazzard switch.

First of all, screw dealing with Jim, talk to Clark, he knows what is going on. Jim is a pompous ass. Call Clark BEFORE lunch, he programs after lunch and they won't let you talk to him, and he is also usually really busy right around the end of the month. JeffP and I are both running the same set-up, and I don't run the O2 sensor, mainly since I always have some 110 leaded in the tank. Have you had the fuel pressure map converted to 4 bar or had a step added to the ecuu? You should because you are close the the max voltage the ecu can put out. Your turbo is to large to be running a standard map. Is your maf at least 18 inches away from the turbo? You have to have it that far away from the turbo to keep turbulence down. What is the O2 sensor voltage when it is idling? It should read about .47 volts, if it oscillates, you likely have your TPS maladjusted. Your HP numbers are pretty strong, but you need to spend some phone time with Clark to get your set-up dialed in. Be patient it takes a little time, but it can be done. Mine works well, and I should be up again with a bigger turbo, larger intercooler, 4 bar map and step and will post an update. Finally, I always encourage everyone to disconnect the harness at the ecu and clean the connections with brake clean and reconnect.

You should spend the money and get a bolted down 360 degree thrust bearing. You are likely getting a 270 degree bearing which is still bolted down and better, but the 360 degree on is the only way to fly. Most of the time unless you specify a 360 degree bearing, or one bolted down, you won't get it.

There is a power window relay that has gone out on my car that is over on the passenger side under the dash that is a royal pain to replace. Water pumps seem to go out, perhaps due to all the belts, but beyond that, and warping rotors, thats about it.

I have an issue, and frankly it has bugged me for a while, and I have remained silent about it, mainly since it seems to have not affected me, until now. I think it is completely wrong to bless someone out publically on the board. Since I have been on the board, I have seen this happen 3 times, and I just don't think it is the proper way to handle things. I guess since I am not an administrator, my opinion really doesn't matter, and I will likely get into more trouble for posting this, but it is something I feel I needed to put out there. I think I have stated on more than one occasion that if someone had an issue with me or something I have said, to send me an email. To me, that is the respectful and proper way to handle things. I doubt this will garner me much if any support, but as I said in the beginning, this has been bugging me for a while.

Try the speedo end, and if that doesn't fix it, you either need a new cable or a drive gear in the trans.

That head does not have the notches in it in the intake runners for the fuel injectors, nor does it have the bolt holes to mount the intake manifold. You will either have to have that done to your head at a machine shop, or swap heads. For your info, an N42 is roughly the same, but it has the larger valves. You should be able to pick one up fairly cheaply if you look around.

I am with you. That would be sweet. Especially if you could get a little more stall converter, and a set off headers fabbed up.

I would run a 3 core radiator. If your 240 one is a 2 row core, you need to upgrade.

My 3 screw ones run much better then my 4 screw ones. I am seriously thinking about sending the 4 screw ones to ZT for the throttle shaft replacement. I think that is the real issue with the set I have, the shafts are worn. I have also noticed when I run the SM needles, my car will turn more rpms then with stock needles. It also rev's better in neutral, but the idle is a pain to get right, and it is much richer at idle, so I don't like the fumes. Burns my eyes. I may take the car to the strip and see what happens tonight, and I will take both sets of needles and see what happens.

Don't think so. I want 300ZX fuel injection to replace my SU's.

Why are there so many people selling these "electric turbo's" on ebay, and an even better question is why are people buying them? Everytime I see one that is not a hidden bidder auction, I send the person an email telling them it is a scam. I want to know how a little plastic fan can help to evenly distribute NOS which is pressurized to 900 psi. Dumb dumb dumb.

Hey, Tony says you can give me the run down on what it would take to put a 300ZX ecu in a regular Z car. I am thinking of doing an NA conversion using one. I figure with a turbo harness, distributor, and the 300ZX MAF and ECU from an NA car, every thing would work. Need to know how to wire up the MAF, and is there anything else I need to know, like what year ecu to get etc.

P series no matter what. P series no matter what. HAHAHAHAHA