Lockjaw

Topend says to use the cold start injector as a suplemental fuel adder, and to use the turbo injectors, and swap in a BMW AFM. Personally, I am not going to mess with the afm door deal, I want an MAF, or I will stay carb'd.

What do you want to do? Bigger valves generally speaking make a car more sluggish, so if you are driving it on the street, you may want to rethink that idea.

I guess I can agree to that, as long as everyone realizes I am not in the novice category, and nothing I have stays stock long enough to make a comparison. As for Norm's combustion chamber, I can see my P79 is going to have to get another milling. I want more compression. Either that, or I am going to hunt down one of the maxima N47's. I have a partner in crime now, and well will colaborate. HEHE. Nice post DAW, best I have seen to date on a head breakdown. Hey does this mean that the next person that posts a "which head is best?" questions gets a canned answer, or we just tell them to shut up?

Man that extra weight is going to slow your cars down.

Man I was just kidding, see the smilie?

Passing or failing would depend on what she looks like. Wonder what she would have said if the guy went in there to "hit it" ? Maybe he should have turned the tables by telling her she would have to prove she was serious.

Well a holley red pump is not the solution. That thing is loud too. I wonder if you could run an efi pump, and regulate it down to the psi you need. If so the Peirburg pump I am running on my ZX is very quiet, and it comes encased in rubber. Got it from Cartech for about 200 bucks. I am considering trying a little walbro I have and see if I can regulate it down to work with my su's. Just not that motivated yet.

Actually, I am thinking of injecting my 2.8 in my 260, but I was thinking of using the 300ZX set up since we have some folks on the board who have converted the turbo EFI to work on their turbo L engines. I think that would be a far better method, plus I could get JWT to mod the ecu at that point, if I wanted to do that. Yo2001 has swapped the circuit board in the NA AFM to a turbo one, and it seems to work ok. I like my su's sometimes, but with this cam I am running, and having to use the choke everytime I start it, plus trying to get the mixture right, I think I could fuel inject it and probably gain power, plus I could run ac, and actually raise the idle when the compressor kicked on. Imagine that.

Hey I went by the shack last night, and they did not have the right diode, but the had a relay, so I am going to have to hunt for the diode. I bet the previous owner would have a cow if he saw the wiring improvements. Not to mention the cam.

The 12 second SU equipped NA 240 guy.

Hey Bob I was trying to fill in for you while you were gone, HEHE. I don't mind someone breaking down my post if they need more info. You got to ask sometimes to see what I am saying. Hope you had fun racing.

For what its worth, a Max head was for sale on ebay and its owner said it has round ports.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention, you have to let Norm drive it.

Ok look, this is the Datsun L6 performance board, not the chevy cast crank 2 bolt main board. Just thought I would mention that.

If it is stock weight, can it be an underdrive one? I think that would be a good idea since there is a sight selling billet H2O and alternator pulleys now.

Dude, chill. First of all I qualified my statement with the phrase "that I have seen". A follow up question would have been to ask what I have seen, not assume I have seen a buick one, and just did not know the difference. Second having a pump outside the block is not limited to buick, Plymouth likes to do that too. And as far as seeing them, I will take your word for it. After all I am pretty much a nissan man, and Buick V-8's are really not in my area of interest. Peace

My job number at Ross is 48067. Just remember that my pistons were for stock 280 stroke, 240 rods, and the pin was to high by 1 mm, if you want a zero deck height. The pistons with pins weighed 504 grams each and they are 87mm bore with 1.5mm first and second ring grooves, and a 4mm oil, which is pretty standard. They looked good when they arrived to, I hated to take them out of the plastic and put them in my engine.

I will wrap mine in duct tape if it makes you feel better. I am just kidding so don't flame me. I know better. Pete that is actually a valid point I had not considered. I may relay it, but for now, I am going to try the diode just to see if it works.

No one makes those for a Z engine that I am aware of. Your best bet would be to run a high silicon content forged, if na, and perhaps the same if you are turbocharged, although they will not take the punishment a low silicon forged will take. High silicon lets you run tighter cylinder wall clearances, which makes the engine quieter, and helps with oil consumption.

I want fuel injection.

Yeah off boost driveability is one thing. Alex is on the money when he talks about lots of timing retard amd high egt's. Size your turbo properly, have good engine management and run lots of advance and pull it out when the boost hits, and a lower compression engine will run great. Seems to me you are limiting yourself with a higher compression engine. More boost = more hp, and you make way more hp with boost than with compression. In a modern engine that is DOHC with a pentroof combustion chamber, you have more lattitude, but with our head designs, you are sort of limited. I should be careful here or I will get another P90 N42 debate going. Clearly, the design of the combustion chamber lets people with these cars get away with doing what they are doing. Personally, I think they are stupid, and their stuff will be blown up and we will get to read about it when they do a feature story on how to build a bullet proof matrix engine. Seriously, there is no free lunch when it comes to turbo's and compression. If you have really good engine management, run 8.5 to 1, otherwise, run a little lower. Better to be safe and a little sluggish til the boost hits, then reckless, responsive , and blown up soon thereafter. That is IMO.

There is am article out there somewhere I have seen about a certain fan you can get from summit. I have a 16 inch imperial from Advance Auto parts. I don't know what it moves air wise, but it does a pretty good job keeping my ZXT cool, except in stop and go traffic with the air on. But in fairness, the stock clutch fan couldn't do it either. I think one in front of the radiator would really help. A 16 is really about the biggest one that will with on a stock ZXT radiator, so get one with the highest CFM you can afford. I like the improved boost response I got from removing the fan.

LD28 crank, 240 rods, and I think the ZZ22 piston. Not sure on the piston, others can tell you. Spend the money and get forged pistons. You will of course have to have the whole bottom end balanced, and I would run the ARP rod bolts. I also had my rods prepped like in one of the datsun hotrodding books. They were polished, shotpeened, bushed, and I had two oil holes drilled in the small end of the rod to help oil the pin. No issue's so far. It will be fun when you finished.

My posse of backers was out in full effect on this one. Thanks guys. Hey I would run the aliuminum pump for the weight savings. J/K

Yeah the guys name was Rick I think. All I know is one guy was an ******* and the other wasn't. Yeah it will take me a little bit to find it. I have to think about things for a minute. You will have to lower the pin height 1 mm for the below deck height of my piston, then drop it 3mm for the 240 rods, and then raise it however many mm extra stroke the LD engine has. I am supposed to have around 8.5 to 1 compression. That is figuring in a 0 deck, which I don't have. I am probably a little lower, maybe 8.2 or so. The engine is pretty responsive off boost though, but I have a stout timing curve in the ecu according to Clark at JWT. I will hunt around and see if I can find the invoice.