Lockjaw

I think you need the mustache bar from a 280Z to put the R200 in a 240. I built my last one in my basement, and I don't have enough room in there. Perhaps I need to work on getting the shop built.

Norm you forgot the piston rings. HEHE Norms numbers work out to 343 lbs.

That is one think I like about the 280ZxT. The diff is in there, and I have done some very brutal burnouts on drag ta's at the strip with no problems. I got some wheel hop one time that was so bad, it broke the rearview mirror. One thing I think that would help you is to build one of those diff things that replaces the strap back there. I hate that strap, and was always breaking diff mounts when I had my 240. I used a chain for a while, and that helped, but that is pretty ghetto these days. I am not sure about Walkers numbers to be truthful. I never saw any sheets or anything like that, and my understanding from talking with people was he used to "factor" his rear wheel numbers to flywheel since that was a higher number. I don't want to flame people or get people in trouble for perhaps saying something that they shouldn't have, but I feel certain he had some race gas in the tank. If not for any other reason than safety. Also, all of the info I have was prior to the turbo with the 60-1 compressor, or what ever he put in it. He had enough turbo to do the numbers he said though, I will say that much. Walker did tell me last time I saw him up at steele that he picked up alot of power on the dyno by enlarging his intercooler lines, I assume from when he added the larger intoercooler. He said I needed to do that with mine, so I am going to try it since I have to now with this big intercooler James sold me. Put the SDS in there and bigger injectors and see what happens. Be time for a shortblock pretty soon.

Ok I got you now. On the turbine housing, most everyone I know uses some sort of flange (mine is from turbonetics) that is 2.5 inches, and weld just enough 2.5 in pipe to it to get the bolts to clear, and then it is 3 in from there. That is the way mine is, although it is not near as pretty as Jeff's. I usually leave welding cast iron to a professional, but on my old rotomaster set-up, I had the external welded to the turbine housing, although it attached to a piece of pipe with a flange. I never had any problems with it. I think the type of rod used has a lot to do with it. Maybe it needs to have some nickel ??? in it. If you went to an external, you could just get a block off plate that fits over the back of the turbo and replaces the swing valve assembly. I feel certain you could connect a 3 inch to that by welding and not have a clearance problem. It doesn't matter that the turbine discharge is smaller than the pipe. You cannot have to big an exhaust on a turbo car. Who were you at montgomery? I am awful with names, it is just one of my weak area's, always has been.

U joints suck. Numbers are nice. I would put the CV axles in there for now. No sense tearing everything out to put in the 4 link. Can I have dibs on the diff?

Bob I am basing my guess upon the "grunt factor" of lifting the block, crank, and head. I would say 550 should be about accurate. The rb I would expect to weigh a little more since I am sure it has a beefier trans, and the head is larger with two cams.

Good stuff there.

Get F11 e tubes.

That one is a high dollar unit, probably 250 for the pp and 80 or so for the disk. I have a link for the cheapest Nismo parts if you go that route. At least check it and see. http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/7/cat7.htm?482

Oh and I should explain my jetting philosophy too. I jetted my carbs to work with a certain set of chokes. Once there, swapping the carbs onto another engine rarely required a jetting change since the air flow thru the carb determines the amount of fuel the thing pulls anyway. I always try to tell my friend with a holley that just because you have a big engine doesn't mean you need to change the jets in your carb. It only flows so much air, and beyond that you are just making the carb run rich. A good starting point for the main and air jets is take your choke diameter times 4 and that is your starting main jet size. Add 60 to that for your starting Air jet. Also keep one thing in mind. The bigger choke you run, the bigger pump jet you need to run. The bigger your pump jet, the more gas it spews every time you move the gas pedal. May not make that much a difference, but it should have a negative affect on your gas mileage. I always got way better mileage with my SU's, but I sure did love the sound and response of the webers. There is nothing finer sounding that a straight 6 with high compression and a big cam going thru the gears with the webers singing the song only they can sing. Have fun with those things.

Bore the housing of what? That one lost me. Yuo can have the external welded to the exhaust manifold, alot of people like to put it where the 3rd and 4th exhaust ports come out. I have also seen people mount them coming off the port out of the exhaust manifold that the turbo mounts to. I am personally thinking about having someone mount one directly to my turbine housing like turbonetics does with the grand national turbines. I would think extrude honing would help alot due to the humps and stuff in there. James says there is a hump in the manifold to from the turbine outlet towards the middle that needs to be ground down, and I can feel it in mine, so it is going away. It feels like that would create a pretty good restriction.

If he has the turbo flywheel, he can step up to the 300ZX single turbo pressure plate, and he needs to get the silver colored clutch disk, that is the stickiest one. That would give him 600 KG of clamping force. He could, if he has the Borg Warner trans have the flywheel redrilled for a 300ZX twin turbo pressure plate, but he needs to use the 89 300ZX single turbo clutch disk, it is also made of the silver material, and it is the proper diameter for the pressure plate. He will have to grind down the ribs on the inside of the bell housing so that they are flush, or there will be some bindage. The TT pressure plate will not work with the Japanese 5 speed. Probably needs to go in 3 inches from the engine side of the bellhousing. That would give him 780 KG of clamping force. This is what I am using in my 280ZXT with no probelems, yet. In a 240, this should hold alot of power since it was designed to hold 300+ hp in a 3500 pound car. The nice thing about staying with the Nissan stuff is you can get it at any nissan dealer rather then mailorder, which you don't know when you will get sometimes.

Bob I am going to guess at 415 for the engine and 100 for the trans. Whats on the engine that should be included? Flywheel is 23 pounds, pressure plate and disc prob about 15 more.

You are going to build an R200 by yourself? Building the engine would be easier, IMO.

I love weber questions. You are correct in your assumption, to a point. The larger you go in choke size the more topend power the car will make. I usually ran 33 mm chokes in mine, but that is what I had. If you can get the idle circuit working properly, then going to 34's would probably give you a little boost in power. I had to prove this point to a friend of mine a long time ago. I ran a set of 28 mm chokes against a modded conquest tsi, and from a kick, the conquest could pull me. We went back to the shop, I put in 36 mm chokes, rejetted, and we went back out on the interstate, and I pulled the conquest slightly. What you will run into on the street is getting to large on the choke that your flow velocity thru the carb is not good enough to give decent drivability. Your 32's are fine, and if I was going to spend 24 bucks a hole, I would go up to a 36 or 38's. 2 mm isn't worth the money in my opinion.

You should be ok with the N42 block.

I have a clean up pass on my head, and 30 thous off the block, but that is because the pistons sat down a mm in the bore. I have flat tops, 1mm over, and I can run 18 psi or so without issue's on pump gas. I am using a good old nissan headgasket.

No slamilization from Lj re the volvo intercooler. You are pushing the stock pistons in that engine, not to mention the rings are thicker, which means more friction. Be conservative with the SDS and you will be safer. BTW, why are you yelling?

Here's my .02/ If Nissan thought that engine was good enough, they would have used it. Granted about the only thing they changed was the pistons and the oil pump, the fact remains they felt the need to do so. Also, the NA pistons have the rings on a different location. Be careful with the boost and you will likely be ok.

Bob I am just kidding. However, I know I can count on you to debunk this guys claim, if he will just spill the beans.

JeffP is working on the tremec swap right now. We need a bellhousing to put in a 300ZXTT trans. That would be a sweet way to go.

You guys have nice car places out there, but to many bed wetting left wing environmentalist pinko commie fag liberals to suit me. If your tax burden was lower, you would also have more money to play with.

Doh, I just gave one away. Here is a tip for you though. Stock sucks. I got a dual port one from TopEnd and sent them my turbo and had them fab me a bracket. They made it adjustable too, although I still had to cut the rod shorter. That way, I set the boost where I want it on the top port and use a dial a boost on the bottom port to adjust it. Works pretty well, and I have alot faster boost response than I had with the stock one.

50 bucks. I will even sign a waiver releasing you from liability if you like. HEHE

Norm, what should we be looking for total advance wise with an NA engine? Mine is beyond 40 if my dial back is right. That has to be to much right?