Lockjaw

I have the paper factory manual, and it is pretty good. I am going to try the diode and see what happens. Wiring issue's sure are fun. NOT.

Yeah all L series pistons are essentially custom since there were so many rod and piston combo's with those engines. The pistons were 68 bucks a piece. I bought the good tapered chromoly piston pins, and they were 110 bucks. Here is the deal with piston work. Flat tops are cheaper than a dish since the dish requires extra work on the lathe/cnc machine. As I have said in the past, Ross should still have my info, we would just have to adjust the pin height for your application. I would have to hunt for the invoice, but I still have it somewhere. You have to give them a job number or something like that so they can pull the spec sheet. One other thing to consider, and why I did not take advantage of this is beyond me, diameter does not affect price, so you can go out to 89 mm and the price is the same. I only went to 87, so I could have picked up another 8 cubic inches had I gone with the 89 mm bore, which is what I will do next time.

If you index the plugs you may get a more consistent looking plug. You can also play around with the needle, and perhaps drop it a little and see if that helps with your idle richness, or you can lower the float level a little. I think that is the main thing with SU's, you have to get them dialed in just right, and they will never be completely perfect since it really is just a controlled fuel leak. Just my opinion.

You can do that, but with that high a compression ratio, you need to have a very good engine management set-up, big injectors, and a good intercooler. I look at it this way. A point of compression is worth approx 4 percent more power, a psi of boost is worth approx 7 percent more power.

I have a set of sm needles, and they are a pain to set. If I set them for the fastest idle, I have problems keeping the car running until it gets warmed up good. Stock one's are better in that regard, but I have to really move the adjustment knob to affect the idle. Sm's affect the idle dramatically with little adjustment. I need fuel injection.

http://www.weatherstripspecial.com/240z.html They have it for just about every car imagineable. 229.00 for a complete set.

Why can't you use the flywheel and clutch off the other engine? Is the bolt pattern different? If the 87 has the 250 mm clutch, I would consider that a good way to go. Use the 89 disc and the TT pressure plate. Cheap and sticky.

24 hours to get it in maybe. It will probably take you 24 more to get it all working right. There is no quantifiable way to even guess at this, and your best bet is to get a flat rate, or do it yourself. Not to mention the return line on a 240 is to small for anything but a stock pump, and the tank really should have the pick up enlarged. You also should get rid of the stock 240 alternator, which means some re-wiring. You don't want the four speed, or the stock 3.36 R180, and you will need some stuff from a 280 to mount the R200 from the turbo engine. You will want the Turbo trans too, which is more fabrication. I think you even have to shorten the drive shaft if you use the T5, or else you need to come up with a 3.90 rear diff and a ZX 5 speed to avoid the drive shaft shortening. You will also need to have new exhaust run, and should run a 3 inch since you have to do it. Straight thru muffler like a dynomax ultra flow, race magnum, or Hooker maxflo (my personal favorite right now because it is cheap). If you want to raise the boost, you need to get a plug out of a 1st gen 300Zx NA intake, and you should be able to get that from the nissan dealer. It replaces that dumb pop off valve on the stock manifold. I am sure I am forgetting a few things, but this should give you an idea of what is involved. It is not some simple swap, but it is quite rewarding when you are done. You know what they say. You want to play, you got to pay.

I don't like the NA pistons in the N42 engine. They are not designed to be turbo charged, and are different from the turbo piston. That is the ONLY issue I have with going that route. 300 WHP is alot, close to 400 crank, and at that level, you have to have very good engine management and proper fueling in order for an engine to live for a while. You can hit it with the stock set-up, and I know people who have done it, but they were replacing the engines every so often, and that doesn't lend itself to keeping costs down. Forged pistons would be a much better way to go, and probably don't cost as much as a replacement engine, even one from the junkyard after you factor in time, inconvenience and the extra stuff you always need when replacing an engine. Spend the money and do it right the first time, or you have to keep redoing it. Thats my philosophy anyway. Someone else care to weigh in? James?????

If you are not going to use a turbo shortblock, and pop for a bigger turbo and intercooler and some sort of engine management to control a set of bigger injectors, you should go the V-8 route. I don't like the idea of going after 300 whp on NA pistons. Some may disagree with me, but what is the point of having 300 hp if you break your car and can't enjoy it? You should probably plan on a stouter clutch too. An NA clutch will not hold a turbo engine for long at all. I would recommend the 2+2 flywheel or the turbo flywheel and the 300ZXT clutch at minimum for the L6 if turbocharged.

I have never had one, so I don't know what I am missing I guess. Usually I get both tires to spin though, although one usually spins further than the other.

Probably running a little rich. Check timing too. What needles do the carbs have? I have SM and N47 I think, and the SM's are alot richer. I have an easier time getting it to run properly with the stock type needles, but need to work the the SM one's. Maybe an MSD would help.

Sure doesn't take them long does it?

Man, lets see. Really the only things that need to be connected to the harness are the ignitor for the coil, head temp sensor, afm, distributor, ecu,TPS, and injectors. The IAC is good to connect, but you don't have to have it connected. You will also have to do a little work with the pig tail that goes over towards the battery, but I am pretty sure that just involves setting up the relay to work, and connecting power for the set-up. You can leave the detonation sensor disconnected, but you need to be careful playing with the boost and timing. Yeah it is not state of the art, but it does help some.

Where do you get those? Why would a relay not work?

Well whatever you did, you were doin' it. I noticed last time I was at the track that they were at least putting down some VHT, which is nice, although it smells alot like some of that pimp oil stuff to me.

I wonder if some one like Rev Hard could cast one up for us? I mean they should be able to make a much better cast iron unit that flows better and has a port for an external. Maybe even reposition the turbo. Have to be cheaper than a header conversion, right? I am with you too on coating the thing Jeff. Seems to me if it was mild steel, that would be the only way to go.

Yeah that would probably shut the car off and feel good in the process. I suppose I could run a wire from the fuel pump relay to the field position to power up the alternator. The problem is I really don't want to cut into a harness that I just replaced, know what I mean? I guess I could pull the field connector out, and cut the one off my old harness and then wire it up with the relay and a ground. That would leave my harness intact. Plus I don't intend to keep the thing externally regulated, so I wonder if I swapped to an internally regulated alternator if that would fix anything. I seem to recall I had this problem when I went to an internally regulated alternator on my 240 until I found a good switched power source to power the thing up and turn it off. I need to put a 90 maxima alternator in there and be done with it. Anybody else with a suggestion or something else I can check?

The shifter swap is a great way to improve the T5. I picked up a hurst one the other day, and the difference has to be experienced to be believed. I have not managed to tear up a T5 yet, but I have gone thru several nissan transmissions.

I have flat tops in my engine. Ordered them from Ross Racing. Since I did not measure the deck height before I tore the engine down they ended up sitting a MM down in the bore. I had the block decked 30 thou, and they work well. I have a stock cam and 150 to 160 psi cranking compression. I can run 18 psi on pump gas with a hybrid. I do run a set of 240 rods though. I wanted to improve the rod to stroke ratio, plus if I ever get a diesel crank, I am pretty much ready to go.

Hey I swapped out my combination switch, which is what I call the turn signal deal and the headlight, wiper deal, and I have brake lights now. I replaced the hazzard switch with a different one, and now have turn signals. Don't have hazzards any more, but it could be due to the hazzard relay deal I replaced. I suspect it is not the right one.

What did you soak 'em in prior to heading to the track?

Switch is in. I did a check for power on the field wires, and when the switch is off, I have power to the field one, when it is on, I have power to one but not the other. I have no power to the coil when the switch is off either, as long as the car is not running,when switch off and car still running, the coil has power. If the coil has power, then I guess I could cure that but putting a relay in line on the power line, and that would solve that issue. I bet it is one wire somewhere that is doing me in. Yeah it has some ghetto wiring done to it, which I replaced with the engine harness. It is pretty hard for someone to monkey with the harness in the dash, so I feel safe about that, but the tail section I haven't gotten into yet. Still haven't figured out the brake lights, turn signals, or hazzards. Replaced both hazzard and turn signal things, still no change. Then I swapped the combinations switches, and I have brake lights. Swapped the hazzard switch, and now I have turn signals, but no hazzards. So if someone can just tell me how to get the freakin thing to turn off with the key, I should be operational, at least legally. Man I hate wiring. It would help if I could read what all the stuff and symbols were.

Found an L9 for a 100 bucks, so I have a crower for sale now. 288 duration, 488 lift, 110 LCA. 236 at 50 thous.

Well I have a 260 and my head lights and parking lights work, but my brake lights and blinkers don't work, and my hazzard lights only work on one side. Do you have hazzard lights? You have to have a hazzard switch for the blinkers to work. If you find out anything, how about letting me know and I will do the same for you.